Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Skip White Chevy 406 short-block kit

I'd talk to @RPM as I think he's had a lot of dealings with Skip White. I've looked at their stuff before and they have pretty good prices, but I think they use a lot of off shore parts though...
 
I see that kit uses dual spiro-lox for piston pin retention , be ready to have your patience tested & your fingers bloodied :mad:
dave
 
Off hand the first thing I can think of is the piston, while being forged, will give you too high a compression ratio. Call "Skip White" and see about a piston change.

Next would be if your present cooling system will work with the h.p. demands.

More questions. Will your oil pan work with the new Dart block? Is an oil pump included?
Timing chain, front cover, all tin, water pump etc.

Ask what can be transfered from your existing engine to the new engine and what needs to be purchased to have a complete and running engine.

Ask for and get a detailed parts break down with make, model, type, etc. along with individual prices, including all machine work performed.

Lots of time "Skip White" turns out to be a small warehouse that subcontracts all machining, balancing, out to a no name machine shop that you will not be able to contact if some thing goes sideways.

"Skip White" also might use the "on demand" ordering system where Skip gets your money and then orders your parts and has them sent to you direct from a different warehouse. Even less warehousing costs to "Skip".

Always use your your bank credit card with a 30 day cancelation ability. Talk to your bank. Never know when "Skip" might skip with the money.

After the parts have arrived at the place of assembly, inspect and verify every thing is as it is supposed to be. By the by, do you have a way to get the block off the truck? It will probably come on a pallet. Unless the driver has a fork lift behind the truck, it will be up to you to arrange the removal and situating of said pallet. Do not forget to tip the truck driver if he has to help unload. Also have have cool drinks available.

Do not hesitate to call "Skip" or if you have parts discrepancies to stop payment thru the credit card company.

One last thing. The block will probably weigh more so you might think about another leaf in the front spring.

Enjoy

John

One last thing for now - do not use Fram products in any way, shape, or form. Not even during break-in.
 
I've used fram on everything since the mid 60's , never have had a problem , I think the fram "hype" was mostly an "end-user" problem
dave
 
See "Bob is the oil guy" dot com I believe.
Check Yellow Bullet, Chris Uratchko forum, in the stickies, another oil & filter thread.
Fram spends more on public relations than on manufacture.

If, after reading both columns, not skimming but actually taking the time to read, and you feel the same way, then have at it.

John
 
I know a guy who heard from his buddy that talked to his friend who talked to his cousin that read on the internet ....blah , blah blah :laugh::confused:
dave
 
2old2fast said:
I see that kit uses dual spiro-lox for piston pin retention , be ready to have your patience tested & your fingers bloodied :mad:
dave
Click to expand...
There are 3 things that will become your friends fast....
1. Cuss words...
2. A very small hi-quality flat-head screwdriver....or a small pen knife....
3. A good pr. of needle-nose pliers....

Yep, sore tender fingers for sure....
 
There is a segment in the 383 video I'm watching on putting in spiral locks. Looks like a major PITA!
 
They're "fiddly" but once you've done a few , you'll get the hang of it ...
dave
I think that kit uses a cast steel crank ...you need to talk to someone way smarter than me to find out if that'll be OK or if you want forged...
 
I used an Eagle forged crank in mine with a double keyed snout for the blower drive, and no harmonic balancer. Eagle rods w 7/16 bolts and SRP blower pistons. It would make 10 lbs of boost.

Lee call Skip White and tell him what you want, and let them buid a kit for you. Then you can assemble it.
 
Nothing against the named engine building business, but I do not see, a self build kit, being a route I would take. I would bet, the largest piston will be the basis for all the cylinders size, bearing clearances will be very ball park, as will be the balance job. I see many trips to the machine shop. If the tolerances are spot on for a hand built engine, they would not be saving anything not bolting the engine together. I am making my comparison to something like the Scat engine kit, less the block. The crank has to be polished, the pistons fitted and the balance is without the balancer and flywheel. Maybe the suggested supplier has all this covered, but I would question to be sure. Looking forward to a good, easy build. Please do not take this as a bash on anyone. I just want to see Lee be happy with the results.
 
The advice I gave for Skip White was for a completely unknown quantity that mirrors the referral Lee received from a fellow T enthusiast for his first short block. Ten thousand miles in ten years/ thousand miles a year isn't bad. It cost Lee a thousand dollars a year to drive his T. But now he can not rebuild his claimer engine.

If others can vouch for Skip White and Lee is comfortable with the referrals then Lee can make an educated decision. If no one could vouch for Mr. White then I would most certainly follow the steps I recommended.

It is like the referee in a boxing match says "Be prepared to defend yourself at all times".

John
 
I'll tell a little story about these "you assemble" engine kits....the 1st motor in my T was a PAW kit, I bought it for $200 from a guy whose project stalled....nothing fancy, flat-tops recon rods, cast crank...checked pisto clearance, all were within .0005 , pretty close , had an L-79 clone cam.....put it together, no knocks or rattles , good comp. , no oil consumption....when I decided to build the strker motot that I'm running now, the old motor had about 20 K miles.... sold it for $400 to a guy who wanted an engine for a cruiser project, that was 6 years ago , motors still running well & he's put 30K on it..
Sometimes you get lucky..
dave
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top