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Throttle control advice T 23

prairiepegger

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Hi all
I'm anxious on getting the engine stared in the next day or two and ready to instal a pedal and carb linkage. I've read some horror stories of sticky linkages and wanted to ask you folks how to do it correctly. I would appreciate advice, material list and/or photos if possible.
In terms of set-up, I'm running a late model 5 litre Ford, carb converted. I'm using a Holley 600 cfm 1460 model

Thanks in advace.
 
Throttle cables give you a lot of options and eliminate a lot of problems. My T has something OEM off a car. Lokar may make something.
 
Cables are used on nearly all production cars and trucks. Lokar makes a good cable. The throttle sticking open is highly unlikely. I have a ford 302 with Edekbrock 500 cfm. If you have an AOD tranny you will have to get the Lokar bracket and cable for that too.
 
Thanks for the quick responses. I'll consider both solid rod and cable. My setup is not AOD so it should be, hopefully, less complicated.
Do you guys use a spring on the pedal or just rely on the carb spring to retract the pedal?
Do local hardware stores carry small heims?
Thanks
 
I use a spring at the carb, although the throttle cable has one made on the cable.
If you have ACE hardware stores, ours have male and female heim joints.
good luck,
 
I have a stock cable set up on mine. I make sure I have 2 return springs on my carburetor If one would break I have a backup spring. I see a lot of cars at car shows that have a 1 spring set up. Not me...
 
Lokar's throttle cables are ubiquitous. Cut to length with a Dremel or other cutoff wheel; don't use dikes as you'll make a mess and ruin the cable. Also don't make sharp bends in routing it; the steel wire will eventually dig a groove in the inner lining and it will stick. I put a drop of oil in the cable once in a while. I use a spring at the carb and another at the pedal. And be careful not to route where the cable might get pinched; I did (between the firewall and tranny) and the throttle stuck wide open:
standing%2Bon%2Bthe%2Bbrakes.jpg

...those are the front tires locked up while I stood on the brakes. What we old guys call an E ticket ride.
 
I have had 2 throttles stick wide open in my life. One was on a RD350 motorcycle. That one came close to putting me in the hospital. It was in the days before handlebar mounted kill switches became DOT required and the key was under the tank. That bike was a little rocket and as Potvin said, it was a genuine E ticket ride before I could get it shut off!

The other time was on a Chevy pickup with a single return spring. I went to a dual spring setup and have never used anything else on my cars. Don't rely on the carb spring to return the cable/linkage and pedal. There are plenty of ready made spring brackets in the aftermarket as well as stock OEM stuff.
 
I have a stock cable set up on mine. I make sure I have 2 return springs on my carburetor If one would break I have a backup spring. I see a lot of cars at car shows that have a 1 spring set up. Not me...

A double spring set up is required in order to pass the NSRA Safety 23 Inspection.

Jim
 
When I was dirt track racing we were required to use double springs and have a coil shutoff switch within reach of the driver.
 
Like most things , common sense applies. Cables work fine for most street rods. Just make sure it's routed nicely , with no sharp bends, and away from exhaust etc, and it should be fine.
Hint:. Put the return springs going forward. This balances the load with the cable pulling back and the springs pulling forward, and reduces the load on the throttle shafts which in turn wear the carb body and over time create an air leak , which in turn makes the tune go away, idle lean etc etc . . just my thoughts . . .
 
Looks like this task is still a few days away now as I'll need order some parts. You've all been very helpful. If it's not too much trouble, how about posting some pics of you're set-up.
Thanks again
 

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