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Torque converter maybe?

Discussion in 'Engines and Drivelines' started by Jim B, Dec 24, 2021.

  1. Jim B

    Jim B
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    When this bucket warms up to operating temp, it sometimes wants to die when I apply full brake stop. Torque converter stall speed to low?
     
    #1 Jim B, Dec 24, 2021
  2. Spanky

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    What's the idle speed at full stop with transmission in gear? Do you have to stand on the brakes, or will it hold with light-to-moderate pressure?
     
    #2 Spanky, Dec 24, 2021
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  3. Jim B

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    It will stop with moderate pressure but the engine sputters and dies.
     
    #3 Jim B, Dec 24, 2021
  4. 409T

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    I would look first at the float bowl level.
     
    #4 409T, Dec 24, 2021
  5. Indycars

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    So it's OK when it's cold ? If it is, then it can't be the torque converter.

    What are the camshaft specs ?
    What does it idle at while in park ?
     
    #5 Indycars, Dec 24, 2021
    Last edited: Dec 24, 2021
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  6. Jim B

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    Guess I should have left out the cold part, I let it warm up before I drive it. Don't know the cam specs but it goes "Bumpity, bumpity, bumpity............................................bumpity, bumpity, bumpity.........................................etc. :D Not as much as Island Girls motor but does idle like a big cam.
     
    #6 Jim B, Dec 24, 2021
  7. Jim B

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    Previous owner just had a blower shop install and adjust new blower carbs right before I got it. I have the receipt.
     
    #7 Jim B, Dec 24, 2021
  8. Spanky

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    Can you take it back to them for adjustment?
     
    #8 Spanky, Dec 24, 2021
  9. old round fart

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    Try raising the idle just a bit and see if it makes a difference.
     
    #9 old round fart, Dec 24, 2021
  10. Jim B

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    Nope, another state away. I just have you guys.
     
    #10 Jim B, Dec 24, 2021
  11. Jim B

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    Ok. as soon as I get the new exhaust gaskets in and the new baffles put it, I will give it a try. And take note of the idle speed as Indycars suggested.
     
    #11 Jim B, Dec 24, 2021
  12. old round fart

    old round fart
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    Also blown motors act different after they warm up. If you rev them up cold they will backfire and sound like they blew up when the pop-off valve reseats! You’ll get use to it.
     
    #12 old round fart, Dec 24, 2021
  13. 409T

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    Did they drive it?
     
    #13 409T, Dec 24, 2021
  14. Jim B

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    I was told that the blower shop people did drive it and bless it after the carb install.
     
    #14 Jim B, Dec 25, 2021
  15. Indycars

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    Could there be a big difference in elevation between the blower shop and your location ?
     
    #15 Indycars, Dec 26, 2021
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  16. fletcherson

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    Exactly, or different temp/humidity due to season, etc... anything else, such as timing, been changed? How are the plugs? Lots of possibilities.
     
    #16 fletcherson, Dec 26, 2021
  17. Jim B

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    Idle speed bounces between 500 and zero at full stop with tranny in park. 1000 feet or less altitude change. Seems raising the idle is first on the list. Baffles are in and made it the perfect mix between deafening and hot rod sound. I can actually hear the blower now. Exhaust gaskets are in and no more leaks there.
     
    #17 Jim B, Dec 27, 2021
  18. Indycars

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    That's too low, even for a stock motor. I suspect your idle should be around 750-900 rpm when
    it's in Park. Hard to know for sure without knowing specs or being able to hear it.

    Can you make a video so we can hear it ? During the video start at 650 rpm, then adjust it up in steps
    of 50 rpm until you get to 900 rpm. Be sure to call out each step so we know what we are listening to.
    Then post the video on YouTube and post the link here so we can watch and listen.
     
    #18 Indycars, Dec 27, 2021
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  19. fletcherson

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    Indy is correct about idle too low. Also, if you added baffles since it was tuned, changes likely occurred in the a/f mixture. After trying the idle speed increase, it may need a slight carb retune if problems persist. It’s hard to diagnose by description.
     
    #19 fletcherson, Dec 27, 2021
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  20. PotvinGuy

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    Hmmm. I have a blower motor. At first I used a big stock torque converter, but it took full brakes to hold it, so went with a B&M 2800 Holeshot and that fixed it.
    Blower motors usually need lots of advance (because blower motors usually are low compression). I use 20 initial, 15 speed and 15 vacuum. And it should idle below the start of speed advance so it won't be surging in and out of advance. Mine idles at 900 and speed advance starts at 1000. And you want boost retard if you run much boost. That takes an ignition module. What does your ignition consist of?

    Are the carbs true boost-referenced? Some big name makers cheat by replacing the power valve with a plug and call it a blower carb. Without boost-ref you have to run rich to keep from leaning out on acceleration. And your plugs foul.

    If you want to get rid of carb issues, replace them with EFI. Self-tuning, clean plugs, touchscreen data and set idle, accel pump, etc. Many of them also handle ignition, so you can experiment with timing without fooling with springs and such. I love it.
     
    #20 PotvinGuy, Dec 28, 2021
    Last edited: Dec 28, 2021
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