Trailer hitch attachment?

Does anyone know how strong the back cross rail is on a Total performance frame???? choices are very limited as to attaching a trailer hitch, so my idea is to attach a bumper mount receiver (flat top plate) to the bottom side of the back cross piece that is over the rear axle. So, since I don't have a TP assembly manual i have no idea how thick the crossbar is and would it hold the weight/twisting of the hitch? The trailer is a small motorcycle trailer so not much weight there. any ideas??????

 

Their old catalog says they use 1-1/2 " x 3" rectangular tubing, .120" in wall thickness. It would be wise to weld some gussets at the inside corners of the rear crossmember to improve rigidity, and make sure that the hitch is well attached when you install it. Maybe even figure a way to triangulate the attachment points to the rear frame rails.

 

Is that a trailer made for hauling m/c or a cargo trailer pulled by m/c? Most m/c cargo trailer max out at 400 to 500 pounds. Most m/c trailer hitches are not as strong as your cross member. I have install many hitches on bikes and had manufactured both hitches and trailers for many years. If you are concerned with twisting and flexing on a piece of tubing shorter than 36"s, you could use a swivel hitch on the trailer.

 

I measured the cross bar at 2" x 3" and around 29" long including the side rail, but I didn't know the thickness and since the body is all installed on it, welding gussets doesn't look possible. It is a small cargo trailer designed to be pulled by a motorcycle, I still have to fix it up and paint it the red color on the T. I haven't weighed it yet but I can easily pick up the tongue and move it around.

 

Should not be a problem. Tongue should be minimum of 1 1/2 longer than axle width. Keep 10to 15 pounds tongue weight. Negative tongue weight and it will wage like a happy dogs tail. Add safety chains and your good to go.

 

The .120 wall thickness makes it pretty strong. I'm looking at this 2 ways which is to put a hitch on it (by bolting the hitch unit on) and then that would give me tie points for putting in seat belts. How is everyone tying down their seat belts?? there doesn't seem to be anywhere to bolt them down.

 

Mine are attached to the plywood floor using grade 8 bolts and fender washers. Now we bring up the age-old argument about attaching them to the frame or the floor, suggesting that the frame attachment makes them virtually impossible to pull loose in a crash. Theory is, the floor mount will pull out with enough force, allowing your body to survive a mild hit from the rear that dislodges your T tub from the frame, rather than being garroted by your seat belt if the frame attachment holds. In these cars any crash is going to be a problem, given your vulnerability in an open vehicle with no crash protection built-in. Truthfully, my seat belts only serve to hold me in the seat over bumps an around curves.

 

Well said Spanky...............

 

You can also consider using 1/2” bolts for body mounts and 4”x4”x1/4”plates for washers to be sure body stays with frame then seat belts anchored to frame. Seems overkill but won’t worry about it!

 

You only live ONCE ! If you worry about safety, then you don't need a T-Bucket.

My son wrecked my first Bucket and the seat belt attached to the floor held him in when it landed on its side.

 

I've seen some pics of accidents where the plywood floor was still anchored the frame and the body ripped off between the body/floor joint line and others where the body and floor stayed together but it separated from the frame. I say mount it to your seat anchoring point.

 

I kind of like Spanky's answer. You're screwed, no matter what, if you're in a serious accident. Just be as CAREFUL AS YOU CAN..

 

This is what I use--thanks to Gary Percival

 

Spanky makes good sense here, I guess its more about appearing to have seat belts if pulled over.