Anybody put a watts link on the back of the rearend housing? I have a Total bucket and it is mounted on top of the rearend. I am currently repairing all the body damage I had from bottoming out on the highway so I would like to move it where it belongs, on the back. I was just wondering if anyone had any pictures to see how visible it will be.
Here's a picture I borrowed from a different thread on what it looks like. My body is a little closer however and the top of the mount ran right into the body so I am looking for an alternative design.
Concern I would have is if that area of the housing would be strong enough. That back plate is pretty thin . Put some bump stops on your frame to keep the housing from going too far.
dave
The basic design looks OK , but the whole set-up could be made smaller, and the brackets on the rear made narrower I reckon. I would use 2 brackets on the chassis mounts with the bolt in double shear, more to spread the load on the box section chassis than anything.
Back when I was planning on a conventional radius rod suspension, I played around with the idea of a watts link. Then I stumbled across wishbone locators...They do not take up the above the axle real estate, and accomplish the same thing. Even though I'm now planning on a triangulated 4 link rear suspension, I may still add a wishbone for more positive location.
In a perfect world. the center of the Watts linkage should be on the same horizontal plane as the center of the rear end housing. It's all about "roll centers" etc. Doesn't really matter in a T with minimal suspension travel, and you're not going road racing.
The "track locator" used in drag racing works well on most street set ups too.
Back when I was planning on a conventional radius rod suspension, I played around with the idea of a watts link. Then I stumbled across wishbone locators...They do not take up the above the axle real estate, and accomplish the same thing. Even though I'm now planning on a triangulated 4 link rear suspension, I may still add a wishbone for more positive location.
I'm using a wishbone locator on my car. It is simple and effective in allowing the rear end to travel in a perfectly vertical path. I also have bump stops to limit the travel.
I suppose a track locator would work with rear wishbones but I don't feel like re-engineering the whole bakc of the car. A watts link or panhard bar is a pretty simple deal.
Concern I would have is if that area of the housing would be strong enough. That back plate is pretty thin .
my Friend is an engineer and made his whole Watts link heres some pictures from another site ,if you have any questions I can put you in touch with him
John
Get a piece of 4x4x3/8s angle, trim 1 leg of it to fit the contour of the top of the center section and weld it on. (Almost even with edge of back cover). When you do this, trim contoured edge down so the center section would rest agianst on bottom of the angle. Where the 2 meet, drill (2) 1/2" holes about 1" apart and put in plug welds. This will anchor your bracket good and keep flexing to a min.
Now, mount your brackets to said piece of angle, (Bolt or weld, I suggest bolting only if the center pivot pin is removeable, so you can disassemble without pulling everything apart just to pull the rearend), cut things so everything is inline and tack it good. Bounce and check for flex, a couple of buddies or wife/kids are good for this. If thing are good, weld/bolt her up.
Dress things up, clean good, touch up your paint, reassemble and go cruisin...
Tugging on that back cover trying to keep your rear centered isn't a good thing, throw the load to your center section, its alot heavier and WILL withstand the forces involved easily....
If you want it to the rear, just turn the contoured bracket around 180, then weld it on. Just put a couple of gussets across the ends to box it in. Then, attach your pivot bracket.
I suppose a track locator would work with rear wishbones but I don't feel like re-engineering the whole bakc of the car. A watts link or panhard bar is a pretty simple deal.
They are usually mounted to a bracket welded to the housing.
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