What front end to I have?

[clamper]

O.K. here I go, this is another question while repainting my T. The last part I needed to take apart were the wishbones from the frontend. I was able to get the castlated nuts off but t stripped the treads from the wishbone bolt :suicide: Then while trying to get the bolts out I had to heat the axle and use a 5lb sledge, they finally came out but I had a few injuries to my hands from missing the bolt with the sledge :foottap: . I thought I'd have no problem getting the bolts but after looking through numerous web sites I'm lost. My spring hooks to the front of the wishbones in front of the axle?? All the ones I see are behind the axle and the wishbones only have bolts for the axle. I need new wishbone bolts and nuts also need to replace the upper shackel bolts and rubber? This pic is a little far away but I hope someone can help me with what I have. Thanks in advance.

 

[bobscogin]

Your front end looks like the typical '35-'48 Ford spring in front of axle set up. Look at these perch bolts:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Flat-Top-Axle-Perches,5060.html Be sure to look at the specs/dimensions and check them against your bolts.

Bob

 

[one finger john]

O.K. here I go, this is another question while repainting my T. The last part I needed to take apart were the wishbones from the frontend. I was able to get the castlated nuts off but t stripped the treads from the wishbone bolt :suicide: Then while trying to get the bolts out I had to heat the axle and use a 5lb sledge, they finally came out but I had a few injuries to my hands from missing the bolt with the sledge :foottap: . I thought I'd have no problem getting the bolts but after looking through numerous web sites I'm lost. My spring hooks to the front of the wishbones in front of the axle?? All the ones I see are behind the axle and the wishbones only have bolts for the axle. I need new wishbone bolts and nuts also need to replace the upper shackel bolts and rubber? This pic is a little far away but I hope someone can help me with what I have. Thanks in advance.

Yo clamper, not hijacking the thread or anything, BUT, are you running an old style factory f.i. system on your Chevy? I have questions if you don't mind.

John

 

[Youngster]

Your front end is from a '48 Ford. That was the only year the axle had the short relief between the king pin boss and the wishbone pin boss. Speedway lists a replacement bolt for $52. You can save some money by buying the raw spring pearch bolt, (pn. 910-33323) for $40 and cut the top off You will also need the nuts, (pn. 910-330500). These have the taper on them. Guess you only save $7.

Ron

 

[Youngster]

After looking at your picture. I have a couple more suggestions. I would order a king pin set and a new steering arm. From what you said about having trouble removing the old pinsor bolts, I'm wondering if the front end wasn't a clean up and paint without being rebuilt. Your tire wear also indicates this. When you've got it back together with the new parts, do a 4 wheel aliegnment on the car. Donsrods did an excellent write up on it here last year. You should be able to find it with the search funtion.

Ron

 

[clamper]

Bob and Ron thanks for the infomation. I believe I will go with the bolts that are already cut. I've checked out the king pins and they are tight (no play), I had replaced the tires prior to starting the repaint, but I do plan on getting a 4 wheel alignment after I put it back togather.

 

[clamper]

Yo clamper, not hijacking the thread or anything, BUT, are you running an old style factory f.i. system on your Chevy? I have questions if you don't mind.

John

John-yes it is a 62 Rochester fuel injection, it sat for over 16 years before I picked it up and with a little clean up it runs like a top. I'll answer any questions you have, you can either ask me on this post or PM me and I'll try to help.

 

[Ted Brown]

Another note on your front spring, it seems to be off a different front end, because it is at least 4 inches too long, the shackles should hang at a 45 degree angle with all the weight on the car... Either the toe is way off or the balance with that tire wear... Drive safe :foottap:

 

[Youngster]

The spring is probably correct but since the wishbone has been split and mounted to the frame rails, the shackle mounts are closer together now. i would suspect the spring is way more than what is needed so I doubt if the spring bottoms out on the mount. A good and cheap upgrade would be to ditch 4or 5 leaves from that stack and heat and reshape the hangers toward the out side to give the desired 45 degree shacke angle. Another option is the find a '35 or '36 front spring, (about 2 1/2" narrower). You will get a much better ride quality.

Ron

 

[clamper]

Would I still have to heat and bend the outside hangers if I got a 35" spring? I did have a rough ride and would change if I could get a better ride. Thanks for all the advice.

 

[Youngster]

Probably not. If you do it's a simple matter of heating and bending. The ends are forgings and will take the modification without any ill effects. Your car is typical of what they where doing in the '50s and early '60's.
It has held up all these years and with a little work will be around for another 50 years.

Ron

 

[Ted Brown]

Would I still have to heat and bend the outside hangers if I got a 35" spring? I did have a rough ride and would change if I could get a better ride. Thanks for all the advice.

Looks like they (top shackle hangers)may be OK as the radius rods themselves have been heated and bent to allow for tire clearance, this will also straighten out the shackle hangers in most cases... But we always mounted the spring hangers to the radius rods themselves, behind the axle, worked great, just cut the hanger from the front and grind smooth... You could still use them after trimming off the excess and adding a short length of tubing about an inch and 1/2" long cut at the angle of the radius rod.. and then welding to the main radius rods... Drive safe :foottap:

 

[Youngster]

That was used on several of the "Icons" in the '50's '60's. Ivo's car, Norm's car, The car from "the Lively Set", etc. Usually we would use 4 tierods (first hot rod 4-bar) with tabs welded to the axle and frame for them. The spindles were reversed too on most cars.

Ron

 

[clamper]

Where is the best place to get a 36" spring? I've found a 31" but no 35's or 36's, also when they talk about a reversed eye, what are they talking about? This area is not where I have a lot of knowledge :hooray: Thanks in advance.

 

[Youngster]

The '35and '36 springs aren't real plentifull. I would look on fordbarn.com for one. You can post want adds there too. I've had very good luck finding rare parts there.

A reversed eye is simply a main leaf that has the eyes for the shackles on the top of the main leaf instead of the bottom. This is either done when the spring is arched when it's new. The other way to reverse the eyes is tore arch an exisiting spring putting the eyes on the top side. There's a pic of a fixture someone here made to do that with a bottle jack.

Ron

 

[Ted Brown]

I would just take your main leaf to a spring shop and have them cut and roll you some new eyes in your main leaf, no real need for a reversed eye spring... plus they are harder to mount for a new guy... You should make yourself a spring spreader using an older bumper jack...

 

[Youngster]

The '48 spring isn't long enough to roll new eyes to the '35 specs. << Quote from shop forman at Kramer Spring Co.

Ron