Where to get custom steering arms?
- Thread starter PotvinGuy
- Start date
Maybe try the forged lower arms that replace the ones you have cast into your 42-48 spindles. They will be real close to what you have and can be adjusted to fit the drop and angle you want. Make sure you get the forged ones and trim off the second hole on the passenger side. These are a bit cleaner looking then the cut pieces and also come in Stainless but I wouldn't rebend those. Superbell even has these a bit longer then what is standard.
Hackerbilt
Active Member
Watch your arm length because with R&P your arm length determines how wide your turning circle will be.
Ma_n_Pa T
Member
My front end has old spindles with integral steering arms, and a R&P in the frame:
I've bought new spindles without arms, and I will probably need to have custom arms made to get the drop, length and look I want. Who would you suggest?
I used 4"x4"x3/8" angle, made them long enough to keep the r&p rods straight. You could drop them if cut longer but we didn't need to for our app. cut my own out but mine are chevy spindles, don't know why it wouldn't work with ford spindles.
Ma_n_Pa T
Member
Bolted up with the arms attached.
Ma_n_Pa, that looks like a winner for me. Very smart, using the angle stock eliminates the need to bend. I came up with this on my new spindles:
It's full size with correct dimensions to put the R&P arms straight and level, and get the Ackermann spot on. The cardboard might not be strong enough, tho...
It's full size with correct dimensions to put the R&P arms straight and level, and get the Ackermann spot on. The cardboard might not be strong enough, tho...
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
I too like the angle iron idea. In addition to keeping things square, it is stronger at the bend. Good thinking! While we are on the subject, what do you guys think about the steering arms facing forward verses rearwards. Other than visual, is there an advantage to one or the other? I have a spring over with ford spindles facing rear, but am in the process of changing numerous parts and that is one of my head scratches...Ma_n_Pa, that looks like a winner for me. Very smart, using the angle stock eliminates the need to bend. I came up with this on my new spindles:
It's full size with correct dimensions to put the R&P arms straight and level, and get the Ackermann spot on. The cardboard might not be strong enough, tho...
EX JUNK
Moderator
If you intend on mounting your tie rod ahead of the axle be sure to allow for proper Ackerman when you make the new steering arms. Simply flipping the arms side to side and reversing them will give you a reverse Ackerman which is not good. Also making them out of angle will not give you proper Ackerman because the tie rod mounting point must be to the outside of the center of the kingpin. Check the picture.
Jim
Last edited:
Francis Blake
Active Member
Thanks Jim, now I see how that is done I didn't know that worked before. My car had the tie rod out front so I changed it to behind the axle and it drives a lot better now.
Ma_n_Pa T
Member
Looks good, I over cut them till we had the ackerman right then trimmed them down to size, just remember on the nut side of the arm you will have to add a piece of 3/8 and weld it to the arm, beef it up so when you drill the tapper hole it has more holding force. Should be able to see it in the second pic, dont over drill the tapper or you will be starting all over again, don't ask how I know !!Ma_n_Pa, that looks like a winner for me. Very smart, using the angle stock eliminates the need to bend. I came up with this on my new spindles:
It's full size with correct dimensions to put the R&P arms straight and level, and get the Ackermann spot on. The cardboard might not be strong enough, tho...
Ma_n_Pa T
Member
sent you a pm
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