Axlle problem

[Track T-4]

I'm new to T's and have been restoring a Track T purchased back in March. This week I noticed some looseness in the right front wheel so jacked it up today to take a look. When I grip the tire at the 12:00 aond 6:00 positions and press back-and-forth the vertical pin at the end of the axle (the spindle/backing plate turns on it) has noticeable play. I'm guessing there is a pin inside that needs replacing but hope the housing is not bad. On the back of the housing is what looks like a bolt with a head about 2" long which I assume holds the pin in place? What do I have to do/replace to fix the play?

Also, here is a photo of the wheel/axle. I believe it is an old ford unit but am not sure specifically what year, etc it might be. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Youngster]

Track....The problem is probably not a huge one. I suspect the bushings in your spindles weren't greased and as a result the clearance has opened up. you could just buy new bushing and have installed and reamed. If I was faced with this, I would open Speedy Bills catalog Speedway) and order a new king pin set. They run about $30-$35. I would also do both sides.

You have '37 to '40 spindles, ( order that king pin set, pn# 910-32121), and '39 or '40 backing plates. The bolt you talk about keeps the king pin in the proper location in the spindle. Remove the wheel and brake drum. At the bottom of the backing plate you will find a strap with 2 3/4" nuts on it. the shaft they are on has a square end on it. Hold that with a wrench and loosen the nuts. Now turn the shaft while spinning the brake drum. This will back the shoes off so you can re move the drum. Now take the 4 bolts out that hold the backing plate to the spindle. You should be able to do this without taking the brake line off. Drop the tie rod next. Now remove the pin thru the axle and drive the king pin out from the bottom. Reverse the procedure to assemble. be sure the holes in the bushings line up with the grease zercs in the spindles or you will be doing this whole procedure again real soon. Don't forget to put fresh grease in. Pretty straight forward. Shouldn't take more than an hour or so per side.

Ron

 

[Youngster]

I should add, be sure the holes in the bushings line up with the grease zerks in the spindle. If you don't, you can expect to do this whole procedure again real soon. Grease as the last step in the process.

Ron

 

[Track T-4]

Ron,

Very helpful. I ordered the king pin kit and am anxious to install the fix. Thanks! :lol:

Bruce

 

[Youngster]

No problem Bruce. Let me know if you run into a problem.

Ron

 

[Track T-4]

Ron,

I started work on the kingpins but have run into a couple of snags:

1. I removed the four bolts that hold the spindle to the backing plate but have not been able to seperate the plate from eth spindle. Tried doing some tapping with the trusty hammer but no luck. Am I missing something? I was able to loosen the three bolts that hold the brake cylinder to make room so I could pull out the old kingpin but have run into another snag...

2. The kit includes replacement bushings but the directions say an arbor will be needed to remove the bushings. I don't have an arbor, is there another way to remove them? Once the bushings are installed the instructions say to "Align hone/ream both bushings in unison for a final clearance of .oo1" to .0015".

Sounds like I'll have to take the spindles to the local automotive machinist.

Bruce

 

[Youngster]

the backing plate should come of with the drums removed. if your backing plates have been chromed you might have to use a soft hammer to remove them. the chrome on the I.D. of the center hole could be holding it on.

you will have to take the spindles to some one to have the bushings honed. I would just take the spindle with the old bushings in it, the new bushings and the kingpins all in when i had the honing done. let them push out the old and in the mew.

Ron

 

[Francis Blake]

I would recomend having a front end shop do this job but make sure they can do it right because not every shop has experience with these it has been many years since these were common on cars. The first set of king pins I instaled went in crooked( my fault) my front tires lasted about 500 miles.... Francis..ps good luck

 

[Track T-4]

Ron,

Yup, they're chromed so I'll give the spindles another try tomorrow. The right linkpin came out real easy but the left isn't budging so I soaked it with Liquid Wrench and will give that another try too. The instructions said if you can't remove the linkpin then the axle will have to be removed so it can be pressed out. You can bet I'll be wailing on that sucker tomorrow.

Francis,

Thanks for the suggestion. There is an automotive machinist near me who is a streetroddder so I'm going to give him a try.

Bruce

 

[donsrods]

The guys are right, the backing plate is a light interference fit onto the spindle, a rubber hammer will knock it right off, but you might have to hit it pretty hard. Clean up the mating surfaces with sandpaper before reinstalling it and it will go on easier.

Some guys hone and install their own bushings, I don't. A local machine shop charges $ 50 for two sides, so I just let them do it. When properly honed, the new pin will push in with the palm of your hand.

Don

 

[LumenAl]

To avoid all the hassle of bushing and honing, I used these that I ordered from Speedway...

a little spendy... I had the ones made by "Royal". They have dual needle bearings at both top and bottom and stainless steel king pins... and they include a special tool required to tap the bearings in place... smooth as butter!

Looks like Mr. Roadster as come out with a similar product at a better price too...

 

[Youngster]

that $50 is well spent too i might add.

Ron

 

[Rick]

To avoid all the hassle of bushing and honing, I used these that I ordered from Speedway...

a little spendy... I had the ones made by "Royal". They have dual needle bearings at both top and bottom and stainless steel king pins... and they include a special tool required to tap the bearings in place... smooth as butter!

Looks like Mr. Roadster as come out with a similar product at a better price too...

I made my own being a machinest.I took id/od dimentions and ordered the bearings and stainless for the king pins(actually my company did LOL).

 

[Track T-4]

The left linkpin is coming out with a fight. I've been soaking it as best I can with Liquid Wrench and wailing on it with a chisel and hammer. Now have it up about 3/4 inch and plan to try again tomorrow. Because of the angle of the spinde it's not a straight hit. I'm not intereted in pulling the axle so it can be pressed out but that might become the solution. Thanks for the suggestions and comments so far.

Bruce

 

[Youngster]

drive it back in and try it again. it'll come out. so much for the hour or so huh.....Murphy's Law?

Ron

 

[Track T-4]

LOL! Yup, that's the way all of these projects go - car and home. It's a good thing we like doing this kind of stuff. :lol:

I got the right-side linkpin out this morning. No luck seperating the spindles from the backing plates though. I gave them several good whacks but no movement. I'm going to pull the brake lines and hope the auto machinist can do the bearings with the whole unit attached.

Bruce

 

[donsrods]

That's really strange that the backing plates are so frozen on there, I've never seen any that wouldn't come off with a few whacks after the 4 bolts were removed. I guess rust could have built up between the spindle and the big hole in the backing plate, and maybe between the flanged portion, but it is still a little confusing.

What it should look like when apart is like this:

That large hole just registers on the large round portion of the spindle with a light press fit.

Don

 

[Youngster]

i agree with Don. i have taken lots of them apart, some severely rusty ones. the only ones that gave me a problem were with plated spindles and backing plates, but even those were no match for the dead blow. When you do get them apart, clean that center hole up to where you can put them on by hand.

Ron

 

[Track T-4]

I took the two complete sets - spindle attached to backing plates - to the local auto machinist. The last time I took something to him was almost 20 years ago for a ball joint swap on a 356 Speedster replica I was building (still own/drive it). Back then he was debating on keeping or selling a '35 Ford coupe he owned. I told him it would be a big mistake if he sold it and he would always regret making that decision. Turns out he still has the '35, had completely redone it, and had put alot of mileage on the car over the years. His father was also there and he told me he has a '40 Ford coupe he's owned for 55 years! There were photos on the wall and both looked great. BTW, they also had photos of their two drag Mustangs - one was an all-fiberglass, 9+ second beauty.

Anyway...:lol:...when I asked if they ever did linkpins/bushings like these, his dad said "Oh, yeah, we've done ALOT of them and those are the wrong brake springs". :lol: "but you have to take the spindle and backing plates apart". Turns out they're going to pull them apart and do the rest of the work I need.

Sorry for the long story but I thought it was like ironic, like going back in time 20 years and the coincidence of the cars they own with the work I needed. Now anxious to get the stuff back and remounted on the car...and buying new brake springs.

Bruce

 

[LumenAl]

... a 356 Speedster replica I was building (still own/drive it) ...

Bruce

What? You know the :lol:... where is the pics! :lol: