Balancer Holder-Upper
- Thread starter Old Rotor Flap
- Start date
chopfather
New Member
that is a nice holder upper there :thumb:
:thumb: I like it
Mike
Well-Known Member
Slick idea!
Back in the Dark Ages, we ran an A/ED and had problems with the converter loading up the thrust bearing too much. And we noticed an irregular pattern on the bearing halves, so we turned down a chunk to fit the rear saddle. It would hold the cap square while we torqued it down. We would then drill the cap and the block for dowel pins to properly locate the cap every time. End of bearing problems.
Sometimes people spend too much time thinking inside the box. And others spend too much time making sure they're outside the box. I figure if we just throw the box away, then nothing can limit what we're trying to do. :rofl:
Back in the Dark Ages, we ran an A/ED and had problems with the converter loading up the thrust bearing too much. And we noticed an irregular pattern on the bearing halves, so we turned down a chunk to fit the rear saddle. It would hold the cap square while we torqued it down. We would then drill the cap and the block for dowel pins to properly locate the cap every time. End of bearing problems.
Sometimes people spend too much time thinking inside the box. And others spend too much time making sure they're outside the box. I figure if we just throw the box away, then nothing can limit what we're trying to do. :rofl:
There was a guy on the NTBA site several years ago that did pretty much the same thing, but he used a hunk of wood. We still tease him about his wooden crank.
I saw in the picture there some blower pulleys, you going to run a blower and use a balancer?
I was advised not to use a balancer with a blower. The balancer keyway can't with stand the power it takes to drive the blower. So I used a double key billet blower drive hub. It has the standard keyway, but 180 degrees from it it has a 1/4" keyway also. You have to have the crank cut for the keyway to match. When we ordered the Eagle crank we just ordered it for a blower motor, I think it was only $15.00 more for the extra keyway.
I saw in the picture there some blower pulleys, you going to run a blower and use a balancer?
I was advised not to use a balancer with a blower. The balancer keyway can't with stand the power it takes to drive the blower. So I used a double key billet blower drive hub. It has the standard keyway, but 180 degrees from it it has a 1/4" keyway also. You have to have the crank cut for the keyway to match. When we ordered the Eagle crank we just ordered it for a blower motor, I think it was only $15.00 more for the extra keyway.
Good point RPM.
Yes, I'm going to try to run a blower. I have a stock 4-71 that will be little more than altitude compensation since I live at 8500 feet MSL. I'm going to under drive the blower.
I've not delved into the science of it all, but I have not been comfortable with the idea of a blower pulley crank hub replacing the balancer. Although I know it's done every day.
Back in those days we had a AA/FD with a SBC that had one key and way in the crank. You'll probably agree the worst thing about front engine cars was driving over the crank.
Progress come in small steps for me as I refuse to work full time.
I was boulding a helicopter aroujnd an Allison 250-C18 turbine engine when my wife told me in order to finish the helicopter, I have to get a full time job. I responded; Let megive that some serious thought, No thanks!
I sold it and now am building this car thing. I truely miss my beloved Allison.
Thanks RPM and all the kind comments.
Yes, I'm going to try to run a blower. I have a stock 4-71 that will be little more than altitude compensation since I live at 8500 feet MSL. I'm going to under drive the blower.
I've not delved into the science of it all, but I have not been comfortable with the idea of a blower pulley crank hub replacing the balancer. Although I know it's done every day.
Back in those days we had a AA/FD with a SBC that had one key and way in the crank. You'll probably agree the worst thing about front engine cars was driving over the crank.
Progress come in small steps for me as I refuse to work full time.
I was boulding a helicopter aroujnd an Allison 250-C18 turbine engine when my wife told me in order to finish the helicopter, I have to get a full time job. I responded; Let megive that some serious thought, No thanks!
I sold it and now am building this car thing. I truely miss my beloved Allison.
Thanks RPM and all the kind comments.
This from BDS.
"We do not recommend any type of cast iron balancer because they break easily. Any hi-quality heat-treated after market steel harmonic balancer with two key ways (one 3/16" and the second a 1/4" key way located 180 degrees apart) will perform very well. Be sure to notify BDS at the time you order your blower kit if you will be using an after market harmonic balancer. BDS will accommodate this kit change when ordered initially. On any large cubic inch high horsepower system we recommend that you use our heat-treated heavy-duty 4130 chromally steel crank hubs."
here is a link to their site, a lot of good free info here on blowers.
http://www.blowerdriveservice.com/index.php
"We do not recommend any type of cast iron balancer because they break easily. Any hi-quality heat-treated after market steel harmonic balancer with two key ways (one 3/16" and the second a 1/4" key way located 180 degrees apart) will perform very well. Be sure to notify BDS at the time you order your blower kit if you will be using an after market harmonic balancer. BDS will accommodate this kit change when ordered initially. On any large cubic inch high horsepower system we recommend that you use our heat-treated heavy-duty 4130 chromally steel crank hubs."
here is a link to their site, a lot of good free info here on blowers.
http://www.blowerdriveservice.com/index.php
I would use the 2 keyway approach, but an interesting note, On a tv show they were installing a blower on a new camaro.
The lower pulley, balancer was pressed on the crank snout, no key. To keep it secured with the added stress of the blower belt load, the kit included a washer predrilled with 2 holes 180* separation. You pull the bolt, put the washer on, drill through the 2 holes which intersect half the crank and half the pulley material. You then drive 2 rolled pins in the new holes. They either caught the problem in testing or someone was thinking.
The lower pulley, balancer was pressed on the crank snout, no key. To keep it secured with the added stress of the blower belt load, the kit included a washer predrilled with 2 holes 180* separation. You pull the bolt, put the washer on, drill through the 2 holes which intersect half the crank and half the pulley material. You then drive 2 rolled pins in the new holes. They either caught the problem in testing or someone was thinking.
Mike
Well-Known Member
Two keyways is the answer. And if you're using an aftermarket balancer, be sure to use a steel hub and not an aluminum one. Steel hub with an aluminum inertia ring is OK, if you're using something like ATI's Super Damper.
The same combination is recommended for anyone using a dry sump or external pump/wet sump combination.
The same combination is recommended for anyone using a dry sump or external pump/wet sump combination.
Thanks RPM, Railroad and Mike,
I looked at the TCI balancer and now the little grey cells are waking up and the wheels are turning. I have an idea and if it works, l'll let you know. If not, this will all be forgotten soon.
By the way, I presume everyone was able to get through my last post with all the typos. In future, I'll try not to be in such a hurry.
I looked at the TCI balancer and now the little grey cells are waking up and the wheels are turning. I have an idea and if it works, l'll let you know. If not, this will all be forgotten soon.
By the way, I presume everyone was able to get through my last post with all the typos. In future, I'll try not to be in such a hurry.
