Brake cylinders

[Track T-4]

I'm looking for a source for two front brake cylinders to replace the current ones. Prices I've seen so far are pretty high. Believe the brakes are from a '42-48 Ford (?), the number on one of them is 2767. Here is a pic of one of the backing plates:

http://www.tbucketeers.com/forum/vbpgimage.php?do=full&p=813&d=1224537007

Also, what was the last year the Mustang used the one-circuit honeypot master cykinder? My T currently has the honeypot and I'm hoping the first two-circuit master cylinder willl bolt in place.

Bruce

 

[donsrods]

No, your brakes are actually 39-41. You will notice there are 4 nuts that are used to adjust the brakes, on 42-48 Ford eliminated the two bottom ones and made those fixed, so you only had to turn two nuts to adjust them. I have both types, 39-41 on my 27 and 42-48 on my 23. Both function the same, but Ford for some reason made that change.

Now, the 39-41 wheel cylinders have not been available for years, but the 42-48 will go right in their place. As for buying them, NAPA even carries them. Here are some part numbers to help in your search:

1942-1948 Left front wheel cylinder CarQuest/EIS # EW156000
1942-1948 Right front wheel cylinder CarQuest/EIS # EW156001
1939-1948 Front brake hose CarQuest/EIS # SP296
1928-1948 Front outer bearing BCA/Bower #09074
1928-1948 Front outer race BCA/Bower #09196
1928-1948 Front inner bearing BCA/Bower #15118
1928-1948 Front inner race BCA/Bower #15250X
1935-1948 Front wheel seal National Seal #5796

I love the looks of these brakes on hot rods........I'm lost in the '50's. :lol:

For comparison, here are the 42-48 version.

Your spindles are also the 39-41's, and are called roundbacks, mine are the 42-48 squareback ones.
Don

 

[Todd]

I was wondering where the engine was. Then I saw the cat. Kitty scared away the mouse motor.

 

[Ted Brown]

Tract-T, While lookin at your brake pic, I noticed that your steering arm was heated to raise up the tie rod, well that bolt needs to be straight up and down, so the bolt does not rotate in the tie rod end soooo much, not a good thing... I sometimes use wheel cyls from any brake system, that will be the correct size bore that I want... the bolt pattern is easy to chance, so is the distance in and out... that way you can make yourself power brakes the cheap and easy way, use a bigger wheel cyl, not too big, as it will throw you out of the car.. hehe

 

[donsrods]

I was wondering where the engine was. Then I saw the cat. Kitty scared away the mouse motor.

She's very strong.........balancing the whole car on her head. :hooray::lol:

Don

 

[old round fart]

She's very strong.........balancing the whole car on her head. :hooray::lol:

Don

It is true, the attack trained watch cat is a mighty breed indeed.

 

[Track T-4]

Don,

Thanks for all the information, very helpful. After reading your post and looking back at an old post on this site that showed the different spindles, I realized I did in fact have the '37-'41 spindles, etc.

Ted,

It's my understanding my T was built about 14 years ago. I bought it last March and have been working to restore it since, there was alot of jury-rigging done over the years. I'll take another look at what you observed and see if there are any related issues. This is my first T so it's a learning experience. :wall: Thanks.

 

[Track T-4]

I did some 'net surfing looking for replacement front brake cylinders, prices ranged from $32 to almost $70. Decided to check around at some of the chains (Autozone, etc.) mostly in the $65+ range, the prize goes to the local parts store (Salvo) - $100! It pays to shop around.

 

[Ted Brown]

What is keeping you from rebuilding them? way cheaper, just be sure to use the expander for/with the new cups... ??

 

[Track T-4]

Don,

I now have the parts but can't seem to get the inner grease seals out, are they pressed in?

Ted,

I've been renovating/restoring alot on the car. I figured the old ones were badly worn and wanted to start from scratch. The brake fluid was like mud.

 

[Ted Brown]

Brake fluid is water soluble, it should be completely changed every year, if you remember to do it that is.. hehe and it sucks up moisture, that is why thing like wheel cyls rust, a good honeing and expander plates in the new kit, usually does the trick, I have found... Was thinking, if you can have them turned in a lathe to the next size up, would make them stronger, pressure wise to the shoes... Just a thought...

 

[Track T-4]

Ted,

I agree changing the fluid is required. I purchased this T last year and have been working to correct all the evils ever since. Alot of fixes accomplished so far and brakes are the latest plus several learning experiences. The to-do list is getting shorter and I hope to be ready for the warm weather season in the next month. :biggrin: