KPoole9008
New Member
I have a GM crate engine I purchased from Summit Racing. I know how to break in a new engine. I need to know if the engine is already broken in at the assembly plant?
Breaking in a new engine
- Thread starter KPoole9008
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der Spieler
Member
Call the Summit tech line. They should be able to tell you.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Those 2 fine folk are completely right! But, in all fairness, these folks need to include a 'run-in' tag when you spend the money to purchase one of these motors.
Upon bolting a motor into my dyno, I write down the discription of the motor, the time, the date, oil pressureupon startup, torque and HP's as I climb up the rpm scale to start......I run that motor in, change the oil and filter and reset the valves, make sure all the torque settings are as they should be. Then I proceed to write down the HP and Torque numbers all the way up the scale.
When I build a motor, I enclose a parts list, a machining list, labor for speciality stuff I do, then my dyno sheet printed off with the horsepower numbers and my signature,,,,that way....the customer SEE's what he's paid for. Summit should ask GM affialates to do the same on runins on their motors.....especially the 502's........
Upon bolting a motor into my dyno, I write down the discription of the motor, the time, the date, oil pressureupon startup, torque and HP's as I climb up the rpm scale to start......I run that motor in, change the oil and filter and reset the valves, make sure all the torque settings are as they should be. Then I proceed to write down the HP and Torque numbers all the way up the scale.
When I build a motor, I enclose a parts list, a machining list, labor for speciality stuff I do, then my dyno sheet printed off with the horsepower numbers and my signature,,,,that way....the customer SEE's what he's paid for. Summit should ask GM affialates to do the same on runins on their motors.....especially the 502's........
one finger john
Active Member
Screaming Metal, has there been a problem w/502 Chevys out put? Are they not living up to advertised h.p./tq. ?
John
John
Mike
Well-Known Member
I'll not name any names (although I will say it was NOT Street Rodder), but the magazines exaggerate a lot. To the point where I rarely read any of the automotive magazines any more. I've seen how those articles are put together from the vendor's side of things and really have no need to have a publisher blow smoke up my bum.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
No John, the 502's are pretty good motors. When they assemble them and all, they're advertised at this Hp and Torque. While they have its built with these and those parts, which 'someone' did build that motor with those parts and they did get those horses. You and I do know that spec's on parts do change. I had someone bring in a motor into my shop and asked me to run it in. It wa below spec.
While I can attest that any 2 motors built with exactly the same parts and run in, will deliver 2 completely diff. sets of numbers. I was just saying that the customers of these motors should ask for a dyno sheet that says the motor has run at specified HP and torque.
I realize you might buy a shortblock or a long block....there are alot of variables. BUT, on complete motors, they should be run it, and have a dyno sheet attached.....if you pay for 500 horses...you should get that many. My 392 Hemi up above 3500 was above 450, about 5500 was almost 600, at 6500, was well above 600 horses. Now, we don't take the hightest HP level and say our motors are this HP. We take a average....and that is what we say....or at least thats what I and most other engine builders do anyway.
Also, the 502's are ALOT OF MOTOR, and for their longivity, need to be broke in correctly. A street motor has to be set up tight so it'll weaar down evenly during its life and give the most durability and performance. I put together a full tilt hi horse motor to race with, it wouldn't live 5,000 miles on the street....the clearances are ll wrong.
Just as Mike said, if your not sure that a motor has been broke in, or run in, get yourself a change of hi quality oil, and a oil filter, and break that motor in. A 502 has a long stroke....you want to vary the rpm, not keeping it in one spotalot, but you do want to seat the rings and the bearings. Don't rev it hard, let it idle awhile, lightly reving it. Just like the new motor in your car....you gotta break it in. Same with these bad boys.
With a proper breakin, these motors ought to last a long time...run a long time, and put out top HP for the majority of their life. After breakin, change your oil and your filter.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
Oh, and let me also add something, too. More and more poeple are getting into the dyno race thing. The comparing numbers thing. Almost everyone these days can afford a dyno cell. I use mine as a tuning tool. I can change jets and cam settings and get the most performance. You can't always go by those numbers though. Like I said, the dyno is a tool...if used properly, it will get you really close to where you need to be.
That being said, when I unbolt a motor there, crate it, take it to a customer, he bolts it in, and its waaay down on performance...we gotta tune it. If a customer had a 2500 horse motor pushing his car into the winners circle, or was close, and they want another 2500 horse motor to do the same, well, you have a basic formula to work from. 2 exactly identical motors will not run exactly alike. Always remember this!
We use formulas for certain rpms with certain gears with certain horse powers to go a certain speed. Then after we plug all those numbers in, we should be close. Alot of the time, we are. Sometimes, we're way off cause of certain variables. Always remember, cars are machines, and as machines are not gonna perform the same all the time. If you hear a noise in your motor, pay attention to it....the car is telling you something. The same with a vibration. Or the brakes. Cars have distinct personalities also. If you have your car for years...you'll find out it has certain little quirks, which it likes and dislikes.
Holleys are a wonderful carb. So are all the others, in their own certain little ways. Get a holley all tuned out and she's running perfect, let a track cool down some, a rain storm starts to move in and the barametric pressure starts to change with the temp....you see alot of people get really antsy really quick...especially the tuners....A Holley won't run perfectly day in and day out, it'll be close, but it won't be perfect. You can't expect it to. Its the nature of the beast.....
Good roddin' to everyone...........
That being said, when I unbolt a motor there, crate it, take it to a customer, he bolts it in, and its waaay down on performance...we gotta tune it. If a customer had a 2500 horse motor pushing his car into the winners circle, or was close, and they want another 2500 horse motor to do the same, well, you have a basic formula to work from. 2 exactly identical motors will not run exactly alike. Always remember this!
We use formulas for certain rpms with certain gears with certain horse powers to go a certain speed. Then after we plug all those numbers in, we should be close. Alot of the time, we are. Sometimes, we're way off cause of certain variables. Always remember, cars are machines, and as machines are not gonna perform the same all the time. If you hear a noise in your motor, pay attention to it....the car is telling you something. The same with a vibration. Or the brakes. Cars have distinct personalities also. If you have your car for years...you'll find out it has certain little quirks, which it likes and dislikes.
Holleys are a wonderful carb. So are all the others, in their own certain little ways. Get a holley all tuned out and she's running perfect, let a track cool down some, a rain storm starts to move in and the barametric pressure starts to change with the temp....you see alot of people get really antsy really quick...especially the tuners....A Holley won't run perfectly day in and day out, it'll be close, but it won't be perfect. You can't expect it to. Its the nature of the beast.....
Good roddin' to everyone...........
Donmon
New Member
ZINC, make sure you put a Zinc additive package into your break-in oil. About 2 years ago all motor had to stop using Zinc. This plays hell on new cams. I know Torco Oil makes one I am sure there are others. I have seen a few flat cams on break in because of this additive being taken out of good oil.
-Don
-Don
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