Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Building a new dashboard


Active Member
I've begun rewiring my 41 year old T bucket and while I have everything apart I figured it was time for a new dash. This time around I want to use some kind of a connector so I can simply unplug the entire dash. I've been looking at the various connectors I've found on the internet and wondering just how good they are. If anyone with some experience along this line can offer a suggestion or two I would appreciate it.

A side note here, Back in 68 - 69 when I first began putting my roadster together I soldered all the wire connections. In later years as I changed engines, transmissions, lighting, and other various wiring I began using crimp connectors. Over the past weekend while going through the wiring I removed the old tape and found the original soldered connections as good as the day I made them. I simply recovered them with heat shrink tubing instead of tape. The newer crimp connections (15 - 25 years old) were showing signs of corrosion and some easily pulled apart. I'm in the process of replacing any piece of wire with a butt splice in it and soldering every connection.
I used Radioshack pin connectors and they work great for gauges.

Here is the link, hope it works..
6-Position Female Interlocking Connector -

I use crimp connectors all the time, however not the ones you typically see...

I use the ones with no plastic around them at all (aka non-insulated)...

Then I use a SnapOn crimping tool... (this makes all the difference in the world!)

These connections hold way tighter than soldering and makes it very clean... just use heat shrink to finish off...
As an old Auto Electrician I can confirm Lumen Al's way is better than soldered connections which can harden and crack. The key is to use the correct crimping plier. The ones that come with the assorted connector packs are disappointing. Go to a trade store and get a ratchet crimper, which has far greater crimp pressure and will not release until the correct pressure has been applied.
Raychem do a line of insulated crimp fittings which have resin heat shrink insulators which are OK'ed by American Bureau of Shipping. You crimp 'em up and then a little tickle with a heat gun shrinks the insulation down and seals everything against moisture. Not cheap but as usual you get what you pay for.
I used conectors from McMaster Carr. They are Molex type, like the ones HaceT used.

You get 10 in a package. You have to order both halves and the sockets and pins seperately. It costs more that way, but you get way more than you will need. I used 4 and 12 pin connectors.


Scroll down that page to "Pin and Socket Connectors".

They sell an EXPENSIVE crimping tool for the pins and sockets, but I just crimped them loosely with a pair of needle nose pliers and soldered them.

I should have some left. I can send you one of the 12 hole connectors if you think you can use it.

Thanks for the suggestions guys and thank you Hotrod46 for the kind offer. I hit my local auto parts store and picked up a couple of painless quick connect terminal kits, one for the gauges and the other for some switches I intend to move onto the new dash.

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