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For Sale Flat head in CL

Discussion in 'Classifieds' started by HenrysT, Apr 22, 2017.

  1. HenrysT

    HenrysT
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    Flat Head V8 Motor

    NOT MINE! I am thinking of buying it for a future project. Wondering if any body knows the yr. ? Or if any body is interested?
     
  2. choppedtop

    choppedtop
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    Not sure of year, but with distributor coming to upper right, 49 to 53.
     
  3. Spanky

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    (Drool:p) I agree that it's probably a later, 49-53 motor. The price is right! I'd want to know a little more about internals - ie: crank, rods, etc.
     
  4. railroad

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    No difference in the years 49-53. Looks like it may have an alum timing cover, more desirable than the cast iron. Red on the intake, may be a truck color. Blue, green head on one side could be a Merc head. These engines have been rebuilt and swapped so many times, there is no reason to be concerned about its heritage. Being stuck is a concern and next is the block cracked. Small cracks in between head bolts is normal and can be a non issue. Look for cracks just above the pan rails and on the sides of the block. If you find a crack on the block, it is scrap iron, price accordingly. The rest of the engine is not worth much. Price is a little high for a motor that is stuck. You can buy everything for the engine, but the block. If it is good you have something to build on. You have about a 10% chance of having a Merc crank which has a 1/4", I think, longer stroke. The crank is identifiable by the cleanout holes and differences in the counter wts. I would buy the engine, if he will come down on the price and see if can find the carb and any other parts. I just hauled 2 home yesterday.
    If you get the engine, pull the plugs and put some ATF, penetrating oil, Kroil or equiv in the cylinders and down the intake. If you can get the crank to move at all, start moving it back and forth. A couple of good bolts in the back of the engine, will let you pry on the fly wheel teeth. Don't break the block and do not try using the front pulley bolt.
    Next step is to pull the heads. Spray all the bolts with the same stuff you put in the plug holes. The longer it sits the better. Slowly remove the bolts, working back and forth if they are stuck. These can break off on you also. With the head(s) pulled wet the pistons and cylinders. You can tap on the pistons to help the penetrate migrate past the pistons. Letting them soak is good. A wooden face impact on the piston top and trying to turn the crank is the next step. Having several people assist is better.
    I won't go on, but you may have to start pulling rods you can get to and driving the pistons out.
    Even with parts being available, they are more costly than Ford or Chevy small block stuff, try to not damage stuff, like rods and crank. There are a lot of people that know more than me and it is all out there for your advantage. Good luck, let us know how it goes.
     






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