flathead ford questions

[Brucer]

i have a friend that has a flathead i can purchase.. I know nothing about flatheads, i do know if the blocks cracked around the valves its pretty much junk...

he's asking $300 for it, is it worth it? i can probably get it a little cheaper, or even do some swapping (this guys a swapaholic) or do i need to get model numbers and check what year it is? i figure the later the model year the better..

i guess i'm wondering is there anything i need to really watch out for? This wont be for my T, i will probably just stick it in the corner and build it someday after my T's done..

Thanks

 

[railroad]

Some may disagree, but I would prefer a 49 to 53 year engine. You can identify these by the distributor being a removeable unit like on common V8s. It will also have a removeable bell housing. The earlier models the bell housing is cast as part of the block.
If things are still looking good, it would be nice if the engine will turn over. If the engine has been outside and uncovered for years or even a year, there is a good possibility it has rained in it. If you live where the winters are below freezing, you could have a cracked block. $300 is a median price on these. I would guess that less than 50% of these engines will have good blocks.
You can eliminate some by the obvious cracks on the outside of the block. If the engine was protected and will turn over, I would try to get a lower price and take a chance. The heart of the project will be the block, next the crank and rods.
Good luck and let us hear any updates.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Some may disagree, but I would prefer a 49 to 53 year engine. You can identify these by the distributor being a removeable unit like on common V8s. It will also have a removeable bell housing. The earlier models the bell housing is cast as part of the block.
If things are still looking good, it would be nice if the engine will turn over. If the engine has been outside and uncovered for years or even a year, there is a good possibility it has rained in it. If you live where the winters are below freezing, you could have a cracked block. $300 is a median price on these. I would guess that less than 50% of these engines will have good blocks.
You can eliminate some by the obvious cracks on the outside of the block. If the engine was protected and will turn over, I would try to get a lower price and take a chance. The heart of the project will be the block, next the crank and rods.
Good luck and let us hear any updates.

RailRoad is completely right, and if you don't see any cracks, but water has been standing in the cylinder and theres alot of pitting....you can take the block to a machineshop and they can sleeve it with no problems.....if its a block with the bellhousing hade onto the block.....I'd still get it but sell it to a restorer than get another block that takes the regular bellhousing....
If the cracks are in the valve area....you can usuall have the seat cutout and then have it welded up....then they recut it agian so the seat insert will sit flat....smooth her down and this type of replair will usually last if its a localized crack and can be drilled at the ends to keep it from running.
But....some folks are scared of this type of repair....but look at it like this....you have a complete flathead motor you want to run. Even if there's 2 pistons messed up and a cracked block, you can usually shop around and find another block, look over at the HAMB site....theres a big number of guys there that specialize in flatties. Theres still alot of co.'s making parts for em'!

Just something to think about....flatheads are totally cool, but they're old technology, and are unique. You can have a really big eye opener when sitting behind a old flathead with a cam, a healthy stroker kit and 3-97's sitting on top....and leave a fairly hot 283 or 327 in a blue haze of exhaust and tiresmoke!

 

[Youngster]

i would buy it only if the owners will let you do at least a dye penetrate test on the block. these kits are cheaper than throughing 300 bucks away . good blocks can still be forund. cracks around the cylinders are the one i worry about so i reject those. cracks around the valve seats are repairable or acceptable in most cases. just my 2 cents.

Ron

 

[Screaming Metal]

i would buy it only if the owners will let you do at least a dye penetrate test on the block. these kits are cheaper than throughing 300 bucks away . good blocks can still be forund. cracks around the cylinders are the one i worry about so i reject those. cracks around the valve seats are repairable or acceptable in most cases. just my 2 cents.

Ron

And I agree totally with you Youngster.....If the guy was set on one he could find parts.....I'm totally with you you on checking it, too. You cna get the Non-destructive dye set, 3 cans, cleaner/dye/ developer from Fastenal for about 70 bucks.....and you'll use it agian and agian over the years.

And check where Youngster said, around the bore.....right at the edge of the bore and where the head gasket seals off.....and check out the bottom of the bore down in the cylinder....this is a area that will fill with rain water and freeze and bust....most folks won't find this one until its too late....