Front shock mounts

[396 BB]

Well I'm still new to this T-Bucket adventure and I am loving every minute of it. I have spent the last 6 months turning wrenches trying to make my 23 T safe & reliable. So far so good. With the help of this forum I have taken it from a 25 mph death wobble & a almost 90 degree 50 mph spin out disaster, to a straight off the line, 45 mph to a buried speedometer 80 plus, all by the time I enter the freeway. Thanks Guys.

With that being said I am more into showing the T-bucket than driving it fast. My problem is finding good quality parts that fit while looking good doing it.. I bought a universal shock/headlight mount kit. After modifying the mounts I was able to make them work. Just not properly. The mounts interfere with my tie rod & shortens the turning radius. I'm thinking of going back to the original friction shocks if I cant find something that will look good & work correctly. I would appreciate any help thoughts & or ideas. Thanks again.

 

[lincolnuT]

A photo or two of what you have now would be a big help to see what you need...........Thanks..This is what I am running and they work great...........

 

[396 BB]

Sorry Sir but it tells me I cant post pics until I have 10 post. I'll try again another day . Have to get back to work. Thanks

 

[396 BB]

I'll try the pic's now...

 

[396 BB]

No I still need one more post. ok

 

[396 BB]

I hope this helps.

 

[lincolnuT]

This is what I would try to do...If you look at mine the tie rod goes between the radius rods under the frame.......Is there anyway that you could make some bushings to drop that tie rod under the frame?

The movement of the frame and the radius should be about the same. My tie rod is only about 1/2 inch from the top of the bottom radius rod and it never hits that or the frame....You are right what you have now is not a good thing....What size bolts are used on the tie rod ends right now? I have made some Aluminum bushing that will let you drop that tie rod under the frame. They are not hard to make with a lathe.....From these photos looks like about a 3 inch bushing should just about make that happen......

.You need to stay with the shocks that you are using now in my opinion cause I think they work much better than friction shocks.....

Mike

 

[choppedtop]

It looks like the headlight/shock mounts were made to work with a under frame or in front of axle tie rod. You might try flipping the steering arms 180 so the tie rod would be in front. Looks like the steering rod mount is in the center of the arm, so it shouldn't matter. Just a thought.
Lee

 

[butch27]

Do what you can but never make your tie rod your front bumper. It's just too dangerous no matter what some kit designs do.

 

[choppedtop]

Tires or tie rod as front bumper, don't seem to make much difference in a front end crash. I do agree about it not looking safe, but as you said, I see lots that way.
Probably best to have bottom tie rod mounts, with a upper steering arm, at least that was my choice. I was just trying to give suggestions to use what he already has.
Lee

 

[CARS34PHORD]

With the tie rod out front you destroy the akermann of the front end and cause a lot more steering problems. Friction shocks will look better on the car.

 

[Golly]

"]With the tie rod out front you destroy the akermann of the front end"
You can correct that by heating the steering arms cherry red and slowly bending the steering arms outwards as far as possible, then building a longer tie rod. My first bucket was like that and drove fine. Have the spindles crack tested afterwards

 

[EX JUNK]

My tie rod is mounted in front and I made new steering arms that allow for proper Ackerman with my Chevy spindles and Vega cross steering. Anyone using a front mounted tie rod as a bumper has to be a very poor driver. If you can't judge distances any better than that you should not be driving. IMHO





Jim

 

[396 BB]

I have made some Aluminum bushing that will let you drop that tie rod under the frame. They are not hard to make with a lathe.....From these photos looks like about a 3 inch bushing should just about make that happen..

Making the bushings will be easy. I've been machining since 1977 . They would have to be 6 inch's long. That would put the tie rod one inch below the frame.

choppedtop, The tie rod out front wont work for me sorry. I did route it that way at one time but I couldn't get passed the look of the tie rod being that far out front.

I do agree with CARS34PHORD as far as the friction shocks looking better. But I had a bad experience with them when I first got the T/B.

I do believe hydraulic shocks is the way to go on the front steering. I just need to find a mount that has the look & the ability to work with what I have now. Thanks Guys. And I do appreciate your time.

 

[396 BB]

Ex Junk you have a valid point. But you were able to make your own set up & by doing so you made your steering arms the length that work for you. With mine reversed I cant control how far the tie rod is out front. My tie rod almost came flush with the tires. Not the look I was wanting. By the way ! Great pic's & great looking car.

 

[lincolnuT]

Even 6 inch step down block will work I think on the tie rod..You should try to use 5/8 inch grade 8 bolts and make sure the step down blocks are as large outside as the tie rod hiem joints and the steering arms......I like 6061 Aluminum cause you can shine it up real nice....Try it you might really like it just make sure you have no play in this blocks after they are bolted up no matter the size of the bolts........I will look for a photo of the last ones I built & I think they were 4 inches long.........

.I understand the front tie rod will work but I just don't like that look.......

Mike

 

[Zandoz]

I would try just putting a spacer between the shock and the mount...this would move the mount back so that the tie rod would run in front of the mount, instead of through it. As mentioned before, grade 8 bolts to be safe.

 

[bamabucket]

My tie rod is in front and I do like the look - the builder of my car must have known about the steering arm angle for correct Ackerman because the car steers and handles very well. The steering arms are angled similar to those on Ex Junk's car. I agree that the front tie rod is very exposed but these cars are more exposed to damage in every way and I have just accepted the extra risk in exchange for the fun.

 

[T-Test]

Early Fords [30s& 40s] and trucks had the tie rod out front and when we hit a stump or rock we would just get out and bend it back to being as straight as possible and drive on!!

 

[RESINATOR]

We just make a lower shock plate with the spacer welded on to push the shock back if needed. We need to do this with our short axle hangers.