Headers
- Thread starter ford4ever
- Start date
lincolnuT
Well-Known Member
Mark,
I also am running a 302 but the headers were on it when I got the car so I don't know where they came from but I did have them ceramic coated just after I got the car. They were a little rusted and the guy at the coating shop said I would get a few years out of them and that was 6 years ago. They are still working/looking great.........That is what I will do again with the next ones......
Mike
I also am running a 302 but the headers were on it when I got the car so I don't know where they came from but I did have them ceramic coated just after I got the car. They were a little rusted and the guy at the coating shop said I would get a few years out of them and that was 6 years ago. They are still working/looking great.........That is what I will do again with the next ones......
Mike
Screaming Metal
Active Member
I built my own, brushed SS tubing 6 into 2, 2 seperate 3" collectors 18" long. Heatwrapped, binding is SS.
Wild Mango
Member
What Mike said! Rust is a perrenial header problem on cars that are not daily drivers. Ceramic solves that problem nicely.
The only time I ever wrapped headers, they burned up inside the wrapping (no not lean, I run my toys slightly fat around 12:1) so I musta done something wrong. My daughters turbo rice roaster did the same thing, so like father, like daughter.
Patriot and Sanderson are the first brands that come to mind.
fordsbyjay
Active Member
Mine are from Sanderson I believe. Their ceramic coating was not very nice and didn't last long though. I had them recoated at Jet Hot.
Mike Britton
New Member
Not wanting to hi-jack here, but can the ceramic coating be applied in white? Thanks,Mike
Mike Britton
New Member
Copy that. I'm trying to stay in the late 60's early 70's drag theme because of the paint job.
Got to have white headers! Thanks, Mike
Got to have white headers! Thanks, Mike
Screaming Metal
Active Member
WM, its in the steel. The Cheap steel tubing that they're made from, then they're made from the lightest stuff avail., ga. wise. The heat takes all the temper out of if, well, I should say what little it had, and then the rust eats at it, then when things get heated, the rust goes away, released into the oxygen.
Ever notice when you take a cutting torch to a piece of plate, you preheat it, then the rust seens to magically dis appear?
Rust, only happens when steel, bare steel is exposed to oxygen. Heat it with the flame of a torch, and it goes away. Its got oxygen locked into it.
I call it the BBQ Grill effect. Get that cheap BBQ Grill, don't use it much, but it sure looks ugly really fast. Same thing with welding on sheetmetal. Get things all hot, welded up nice....doesn't seem to be what you do to that dawm piece, it always seems to rust.
Plain and simple, the metal structure is changed, carbon is removed, temper is removed.
When you pay for the better headers, its usually the tubes are a little thicker, and the flanges are a little thicker and better.
Really, thats the only way around this, better steel or stainless conponents....Or with the ceramic coatings, that, lock out the oxygen. Scratch that ceramic coating off, you'll have to get them recoated or the messup will occur where that coating has been removed....
Wild Mango
Member
Yep, I think you are onto it, good advice there. The ones I had burn up were quality enough, but no ceramic. I got over the problem by not wrapping my headers any more, and put a stainless heat shield on the childs headers and blower case so they don't blister the paint on the hood.
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