Hey Guys, Need input on motormounts!

[Screaming Metal]

I know all you go junkies out there got all these killer T's prowling the streets.....need some of your years of experience. I'm to my motor mount parts now............I remember all ya'll saying its rough as hell with solids in the car...:surprised:...do any of you guys ever have any problems with frame twist when ya'll get your rides to hook up.........?
I need your input for a decision before I start cutting my steel........

 

[donsrods]

Not if you use enough crossmembers to stiffen the frame. Rectangular steel frames by their very nature are pretty stiff anyway, compared to something like a Model A frame. But if you use enough crossmembers on the way back it really adds to the overall stiffness.

Don

 

[Screaming Metal]

Not if you use enough crossmembers to stiffen the frame. Rectangular steel frames by their very nature are pretty stiff anyway, compared to something like a Model A frame. But if you use enough crossmembers on the way back it really adds to the overall stiffness.

Don

Yea Don, I was going to put a crossmember at the Transmount point......then I was gonna build a driveshaft loop with some 2X2 tubing back,...... by the rear kickup, where the 4 link is gonna be.......I'm gonna have a cheekplate on each side where the heim brackets are gonna weld to.

Its a blown 400 smallblock (just dyno'ed it in at 668 horses), with a turbo 400......its gotta lot of torque......I want it hook up fairly well.......for the spectators.....I'm gonna have a windshield washer pump and and tank in the trunk....when I wanna do a burnout, it'll hose a little water on the rear tires......the really wide M/T's with Cragar SS's.....I got the tires already front and rear......got the front rims......gonna hold off on the rear until I get my rearend hung and suspension setup, so I know about my backspacing...............its coming along slow though......took my block 4 weeks at the machine shop................

 

[der Spieler]

This Speedway motor mount is a cross member http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Small...-Degree-V6-Chevy-Crossmember-Mounts,3273.html

 

[akitagandy]

Check out RPM http://www.tbucketeers.com/forum/f35/motor-mount-kits-3880/

 

[Wild Mango]

Not a lot of difference between the chebby mounts and solids. If you use the rubber mounts put a torque stay on the engine, drivers side so she doesn't rip the mount apart, they do this with rooty engines and plenty rear grip.
Oh, what makes the difference is, get the engine balanced to a couple of grams so she's a smoooooth cruiser.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Check out RPM http://www.tbucketeers.com/forum/f35/motor-mount-kits-3880/

Hey Ron.....do these weld into the side of the 2X3 tubing......i see something like a small triangular piece of what looks like tubing in there.......for his price.....I don't think i can go wrong...........

 

[old round fart]

As with most of his parts, you can't beat the price and they work great. The bent pieces weld to the frame with the flat side up and the rubber sitting on top. If the rubber parts are like the ones from flatheads there is a bolt running through making it unbreakable to boot!

 

[RPM]

As with most of his parts, you can't beat the price and they work great. The bent pieces weld to the frame with the flat side up and the rubber sitting on top. If the rubber parts are like the ones from flatheads there is a bolt running through making it unbreakable to boot!

That is exactly correct.

I have plenty in stock, let me know if you want a set.

865-932-7541 is the shop #

 

[rbsWELDER]

What is a torque stay? How do they work?

Mark

 

[RPM]

The "u" shaped part welds to the frame and the other part bolts to the engine. Has the black rubber biscuit in the middle with a 7/16" bolt going thru it. How much will it hold. I don't know exacly. It will take a lot to shear a 7/16" bolt. Paul a friend of mine has a set in his blown 351 Ford in a bucket with no problems.

 

[Brucer]

a torque stay.. is also known as a turnbuckle.. basicly 2 spherical rod ends with a long adjuster nut in the middle..

 

[Ted Brown]

That also should be mounted using a big 4 bar bushing...

 

[Screaming Metal]

Yea, I always run a torque strap.....better to be safe than sorry. I beleive I'll go with Rons mounts.........I can fab up a little bar to go under the engine to keep the twisting within reason....(also protect to pan, just ahead of the sump area).......the frames 2X3-3/16 thick....which isn't thin....but fairly strong......

 

[rooster57]

I have the same mounts i purchased from Chassis Engineering. Same mount that Ron builds except mine cost twice as much. Great product Ron.

 

[Youngster]

I have seen cracked blocks from running solid mounts on the street. You would do well to use the mounts that Ron sells. Mango has a very good point too. If your going to spend the $$$ to rebuild your motor, dolla for dollar balancing your engine is a great investment. If for no other reason to give you a stable baseline to begin your mods from. The next most important thing is your ignition. tweek that to a natts ass and wake up that engine. JMO

Ron

 

[Screaming Metal]

I have seen cracked blocks from running solid mounts on the street. You would do well to use the mounts that Ron sells. Mango has a very good point too. If your going to spend the $$$ to rebuild your motor, dolla for dollar balancing your engine is a great investment. If for no other reason to give you a stable baseline to begin your mods from. The next most important thing is your ignition. tweek that to a natts ass and wake up that engine. JMO

Ron

Oh Yea....you bet that puppy is balanced!!!!!! The 400 smallblocks have some inherited problems......and balancing is one of them.


Yea guys.........I got -ALL- the rotating assembly balanced........I dowel pined everything so it can go together only one way...........

 

[oldtman]

the old flathead design mounts like ron sells work great for auto trans setups and the thru bolt means it will not come apart. If you are using a stick trans with out the flathead torque tube drive shaft you can sometimes get clutch chatter when the engine -trans moves foreward and back. 50 years ago they used to sell a u shaped bracket with a bolt at the bottom of the U. they mounted with the open side of the U facing rearward and you could tighten the bolt to preload the mount.

 

[blownt]

With the type Ron has pictured you do not need a "torque stay". There is a 7/16" bolt that goes thru that ribber bisquit and will stop any torque movement.

The chain or turnbuckle is for a stock type motor mount to stop the torque movement and ripping the molded rubber sandwiched between the two metal sides of a stock mount.

Also I prefer hockey pucks to the rubber bisquits. They do not deteriorate like the rubber bisquits.

 

[Wild Mango]

Yep I regard the torque stay as something to retain the engine if the mount fails as well as helping the mount itself. Having said that the stock mounts seem to be plenty durable, I've seen them pulling the steel base up between the bolts and the rubber holds on. However, I have seen them let go and all sorts of damage results which would have easily been avoided if a stay was fitted.