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hyd shock conversion problems

fordsbyjay

Active Member
I got some bolt on shock mounts from Ron at RPM and they don't quite fit my car. Too bad because they are nice pieces. I am going to 'tweak' them so I can weld them on in the place where I need them. My question for the day is how do I get the threaded rod out that the friction shock mounted to? Do I just cut it off? I tried double nutting it and it wouldn't budge.

hydshockconv10.jpg


hydshockconv.jpg
 
Generally that "stud" would be a bolt which is tack welded to the frame from the inside when the frame is built.

Russ.
 
I got some bolt on shock mounts from Ron at RPM and they don't quite fit my car. Too bad because they are nice pieces. I am going to 'tweak' them so I can weld them on in the place where I need them. My question for the day is how do I get the threaded rod out that the friction shock mounted to? Do I just cut it off? I tried double nutting it and it wouldn't budge.
I believe those are welded on (Total Performance?)-just cut it off.
hydshockconv10.jpg


hydshockconv.jpg
 
Aren't those welded in place on the inside? I always thought they were. I guess you could cut it. Now that I've posted that, someone will say different. :)
 
Hang on a min the original design had a bracket between the upper and lower rods and the shock was mounted to the bracket not from the lower rod. I think Rick might post a pic if he will that should clear this up a bit. I used the lower rod on mine but i built a custom upper mount that was welded on to the top of the frame about 2 inches back from the front edge.I think you need the bracket that goes between the upper and lower Rad rods.
 
Yes you DO need that bracket or one to do the same job it keeps the rad.from bending and flexing.I'll post a pic or two tonight after work or in the morning.
 
Yes you DO need that bracket or one to do the same job it keeps the rad.from bending and flexing.I'll post a pic or two tonight after work or in the morning.

I look forward to the picture but this was discussed a few months back and someone had mounted the shock right on the lower bar. That is where I got the idea from. I don't see how it could bend with the clevis screwed into the tubing at that same point.
 
I am the one who installed it on the lower radius rod but i made a custom mount for the top of the shock. if you use the bracket rick is going to post you can mount the lower shock bushing to this and it MAY and i say MAY give you the distance you need to leave the upper bracket where it is. I will try to send u a pic of my shock mount so you can see how far back the top bracket has to be to make it work.
 
The lower part of my shocks is mounted to the lower section of the radius rods too. My radius rods are a couple inches longer than they were on the original setup, due to the "I" beam axle and batwings. I also have a sleeve on either end of the shocks where they mount to the rods.
 
I got some bolt on shock mounts from Ron at RPM and they don't quite fit my car. Too bad because they are nice pieces. I am going to 'tweak' them so I can weld them on in the place where I need them. My question for the day is how do I get the threaded rod out that the friction shock mounted to? Do I just cut it off? I tried double nutting it and it wouldn't budge.

hydshockconv10.jpg


hydshockconv.jpg
It's 4:25 here and i just got off the phone with Jim at Wintec and he sent me these pics for your pleasure.The Brackets you need cost$25.00 for both sides with nuts and bolts.
cid_X_MA2_1269634125aol.jpg

cid_X_MA4_1269634125aol.jpg

cid_X_MA1_1269634125aol.jpg

cid_X_MA3_1269634125aol.jpg

These pics are from his NEW Tub Bucket.But there the same brackets.Oh how i want one.Brian from Total traded in his car for one of Jims masterpieces and its in the final throws of the build.
 
Sorry the bracket i saw had a shock stud where the centerbolt is on that bracket rick posted a pic of. and it allowed the shock to stick out over the clevis bolt. I have also seen the lower shock stud on the spring shackel as well.
 
Sorry the bracket i saw had a shock stud where the centerbolt is on that bracket rick posted a pic of. and it allowed the shock to stick out over the clevis bolt. I have also seen the lower shock stud on the spring shackel as well.
That wasnt me that posted that pic cause i have the exact set up thats in these pics.Works very well also.
 
They must use a wider leaf spring then my TP bucket because I don't have near the real estate for my shocks. I tweaked the brackets I have and will post some pics tomorrow. I height of the brackets were to short for a 10.5" shock and to tall for the 9" shocks I have so I shortened the brackets. As far as a bracket I am going to weld something in between the tubes then.
 
They must use a wider leaf spring then my TP bucket because I don't have near the real estate for my shocks. I tweaked the brackets I have and will post some pics tomorrow. I height of the brackets were to short for a 10.5" shock and to tall for the 9" shocks I have so I shortened the brackets. As far as a bracket I am going to weld something in between the tubes then.
The original intention/ design of the above shock bracket was for installing an I-beam axle in a Total T. The perch centers of the I-Beam are indeed wider than the welded on batwings on a T/P standard axle. The shocks used are pete & Jakes 8 1/2"-11" short shocks. It will fit if you have a standard T axle. However, it is tight. If using the bolt on style shock bracket that was designed to replace the friction shocks, you will need to change to a nylock jam nut and trim the excess threads off of the 5/8" stud. (it is a 5/8"-18 bolt welded to the inside of the rail before the front cap is welded on during the chassis construction)We recommend that when using this type of set up that you do add a brace between the radius rods as there is added pressure on the lower clevis.
Wintec Jim
 

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