Just another '23 build thread.

[DavidLee]

So, I have an IFS assembly out of an early '70s Opel, I scored some big new rotors for it for nearly free, I got some wheels, It just needs disassembled, sandblasted, new bushings, maybe drill some lightening holes.
I had ideas about trying to integrate it into a LoCost 7, a modern DIY take on the Lotus 7 that became the Caterham 7. But that isn't my thing. Maybe 15-20 years ago, but not now. I also had ideas about a fake '65 Shelby Cobra, I have a '98 454 BBC, the good version with the roller lifters and the revised heads.
But for me, there's no enjoyment in saving up thousands to buy a 'glass body, nor in a fast car that's ugly (the 7). I'm liking Speedway's tub for $480 as a starting point I can rationalize, and get into sans contortions.
For the longest time I disliked '23 T's, whether track, bucket, or roadster versions. But 2 years ago I met the right one, and her teens are moving out. Plus the T's simple frame should be easy to mate to the IFS I already have.
I'm all about wide tires and cornering Gs, so I could easily end up with 355/30R19s on 19x13s or 19x14s on all 4 corners. Or maybe even wider on the rear.
I have an axle from my '86 Camaro, it's barely adequate for a stock 454 in a heavy Camaro, but the Bonneville LSR guys push over 1000 HP though them, so I'm likely to try it. I have 2.41:1, 2.73:1, and 3.42:1 gears for it.
I have a 4L80E, and I have a welder. I just need frame dimensions then some mild steel.
Is it just my PC, or is Speedway's website freezing anyone else's?

 

[Spanky]

I usually have no trouble with Speedway's site, but I notice some of their stuff takes a little long to load.

PS - Several buckets I run with have IFS, and the owners swear by it; I prefer the traditional spring-behind straight axle.

 

[Spanky]

Several buckets I run with have IFS, and the owners swear by it; I prefer the traditional spring-behind straight axle.

 

[DavidLee]

So I started looking into the vvidths of things. Including brakes, the Camaro rear axle is around 62", and my Opel IFS assembly is causing problems, but according to the Opel forum, the advertised track vvidth is 49.375'.
My solution to this obvious mis-match should be a 2-vvd S-10 axle assembly, or a Mustang II 8" maybe. Because my cheapskate alternative vvould look so vvrong.
The Opel front is 4-lug and tiny drum brakes. I got some nevv 13" rotors that happen to be the same lug pattern, but the best vvheel choice to match IMO is U.S.VVheel 17x8s, zero offset. Maybe I should ditch it and find something else, but I'm not feeling it.
OTOH, I could run 15x10s, zero offset, on 275/35s, if I just buy some 12" rotors. This appeals to me a bit more.

 

[DavidLee]

I've finally finished reading the free Youngster plans, and I found both 15x11s and 17x9s for the front. The rotors are Mini Cooper 12.44", and I've yet to find anyone fit anything over 12.000" inside any 15" rim. I may have to drop back to 11.6" rotors. I've found repop 295/40B15 racing rain tires, but Testarossa rear 285/40R15 road tires are basically non-existent. Strange since Countach 345/35R15s are still offered, albeit at $700 each. But those 345s require 12-14" rims. The Chinese should hire me to create some nevv tires.

 

[DavidLee]

After 2 hours of online research, I've found calipers. I vvanted fixed, aluminum, 4-piston calipers intended to be used vvith 22mm rotors, because I already have nice ones, slotted and drilled. Mazda to the rescue, the FD RX-7, '93-'99, had them. I could get floating, iron, single-piston calipers from a Nevv-Beetle for $40 each, these are closer to 90, but there's no such thing as too much brakes. The FD used 294-mm rotors, same as mid-level Mini Coopers, but the FD had 16" rims, so I'm doubting these can fit inside 15s. I may have to run 17x9s.
Also, not having any luck inserting pics directly from my PC, I got fed up vvith Photobucket years ago.

 

[Spanky]

Re: posting pics . . . put 5 more messages on here, then you can post 'em. 10 msgs is the minimum. So, try posting a message one word at a time to get up to ten. You're at 5 now.

 

[DavidLee]

So after hundreds of pics thanks to Google, I'm focusing in on my ideal. I'm really liking the shorter builds, even though they make the car "porpoise more over expansion joints.
For motivation, I'm referencing my past builds, and as much as I'd like to do a 351VVindsor, or a current 4.3L LS-based V6, or using my 454, I'm leaning tovvard a Vortec 350. Partly for the heads, partly for a 700R-4 / 4L60E, partly for the flexibility. 3 of my best Camaros have had 350s.
If I'm honest vvith myself, a 200-horsepovver 4.3L V6 from '96-'14 is enough, but I desire more. I vvant it all. Good mileage, good torque, high revs, clean emissions, and lovv cost.
I have a 4.8L LSx V8 and a 4L80E, but I'm planning to stuff those into my '87 Mustang for my step-son. I have a 305 / 700R-4, in my '86 Camaro. I vvanted to 454 that, but lately I've been feeling a turbo 305 for it.
My 454 is the best version, it's a '98 or '99 vvith the small-chamber, large-oval heads and the roller lifters.
I loved my '95 Z28 convertible, great torque off idle, povver to 6200. I had a '78 Camaro vvith the 350, I gave it #416 heads and a 700R-4, it had 3.08:1 gears and 235/60o on 15x8s, It did 24.4 MPG at 65 MPH vvith the centrifugal advance not vvorking. And the third of my best 3 Camaros vvas an 88 vvith a 355, flat-tops, ported 882s, 700R-4, 3.73:1 Lincoln Locker, and 235/60R15s on 8s, and a BTO 2200-stall. It squeaked both rears all the vvay through first, 5500 RPM at 34 MPH. Did avvesome donuts. Dunno the cam specs or valvesprings, but it vvas all done at 5500. I once vvinged it to 7000 in neutral, that scared me for a minute. But it kept running normally, so life continued as ever.
Anyvvay, if I put the 454 in, it'll be 700R-4 if carbureted/4L60E if EFI, and probably 2.73:1 gears at first. I prefer EFI.

 

[DavidLee]

I have a '95 Ranger, so I don't really need a pickup box, so I'm looking into turtle decks.

 

[JeffK]

Is your w key broken? askin' for a friend lol.......Build On !

 

[Gerry]

Thats VVhat I VVas VVondering??? LOL

 

[rubicon]

Now that's funny. I was just reading the post and thought vvhen I get to the end I vvill ask about the vv button. You guys beat me to it.

 

[EX JUNK]

Thats VVhat I VVas VVondering??? LOL

Me too!

Jim

 

[tfeverfred]

Is your w key broken? askin' for a friend lol.......Build On !

Yea...... I thought my monitor had a glitch.

You've also got an odd mix of parts. It'll be interesting to see how you get them all together. Carry on!

 

[fletcherson]

Me too, caught myself reading it with a hitlerish slant, lol...

 

[DavidLee]

You guys are pretty cool, thanks! So, I Googled interiors last night, made a list of things I like, things I don't like. Then had my better half take a look at my 3 favorites. I don't really like the slanted steering columns that look like refurbished and chrome ones pulled from a '73-'87 C-10, I prefer the slim vertical ones, but it seems the best option for daily convenience and multiple drivers. If you add up an Ididit column, plus a cheap MRG-7668 floor shifter, plus a cheap turn signal unit that includes hazard flashers, it costs more than the Summit 77170_-NK columns, and they also include a shift indicator. Besides, column shift should help.
I'm thinking about tucking a spillproof Optima battery under the seat, and putting some audio there also. I'd also like to put a small bunch of emergency items there. Things like a spare ignition module for the HEI, road flare, can of Fix-a-flat, bottle of Aquafina, tiny first aid kit, tiny fire extinguisher, maybe jumper cables.
Another oddity is that I plan to include a class 2 hitch.
Here's a link to the thread from my last custom build. Please don't look at the final page. There's nothing to be gained by it. I still have it. '83 for 50 MPG, big brakes,and more - RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum

 

[DavidLee]

So I'm sitting around thinking about induction for my 454, thinking the sky is the limit, until I remember that my 63" wife won't be as tolerant of a car she can't drive. So I spent a couple hours researching intake manifolds, EFI manifolds, carbs, TBs, TB elbows, shallower oil pans, even fabricated manifolds and even using my SBC, until I had an epiphany that made me feel clueless. It is what it is, but changing the seating, or making a click-in-position seat spacer for her would be much less money. This doesn't mean I can do a tunnel ram, however. I was liking the Weiand, but I realized the Torker II isn't that much more, and would be easier to convert to port injection later. But I like a smooth idle, so it'll need a plenum divider welded in.

 

[DavidLee]

Just discovered that the pics in my old build thread stopped working since yesterday. After many tries I got logged in, but can't figure out how to update so you can see the pics. If you want to search in Photobucket, the pics are all under: thecosmick
I guess I have to email them

 

[DavidLee]

I may have figured out my track width woes. The only 2 things stopping me from cutting the IFS assembly in half then welding in a widening spacer are the transverse leaf spring(s?) and the steering rack. So I started looking into steering rack widths. First I found that the '97-up Corvette rack is a generous 835 mm, and probably too wide for any T. Plus it's $350. So, I started checking the track widths of some cars with affordable racks. The Fiero at 59.7" should add more than 10.3", depending on how they measured it, because it uses positive- offset wheels. But the differences in steering knuckles may reduce that. Even so, adding even 9" should put it in a happy range. A Ranger 8.8 is around 59", my Opel track is listed as 49.4"

 

[DavidLee]

As for springing it, I already didn't like how the shocks stand, but I like coilover having higher wheel rates with lower spring rates, so this seems a good candidate for pushrods coilovers, to keep things low, inboard, horizontal, and less visible.