Leak
- Thread starter Johnny
- Start date
Yes, but the pinion nut will probably take a cheater pipe. Be sure to put sealer on the spline of the pinion and behind the pinion nut and or washer when going back together. Check the seal surface on the yoke and clean it up with fine paper or scotch bright if needed. I take it you are familiar with pinion bearing pre load. If not get back on here and get some advise. No biggy.
BRUCE DYDA
New Member
You will need to replace the crush sleeve between the bearings in order to acheive pre-load. Best thing to do is to measure the old sleeve and using a press, compress the new one till its about .030 taller then install sleeve -bearing- seal-yoke-nut(new) and compress the final .030 till proper pre-load is complete. Not doing this will present problems later on.
I just replaced the seal in my T. It is something like a 70's Nova axle. I did not replace the crush sleeve. When you get the drive shaft out, turn the pinion through the slack in the gear engagement, backlash. You will be feeling for the bearing resistance on the pinion. This is what you want to feel after to put it back together. You should not have any in and out slack on the pinion. You can run the yoke down pretty close with an impact, but save the last few turns for a pull handle. Turn the nut and check, repeat until all the in and out is gone, then try to replicate the original resistance. It should be snug, not lumpy and not loose. Hope this helps.
Mike J
Member
Proper way, I would replace crush sleeve with new ring & pinion. You will be fine using old one if just replacing seal and using old gears. I've changed gears in my chevy 10 bolt 5-6 times a year in my dirt street stock with no issues. I.M.O you won't have a problem. like previously stated don't over tighten and use loctite.
old round fart
Well-Known Member
If you have a dial type inch pound torque wrench, you can measure the rolling torque it takes to turn the pinion before you take it out and duplicate it on the new one and have it set close enough to work OK.
There should be a number on the old seal, that they can match or cross to their number.
Screaming Metal
Active Member
If you need a impact, and don't have a air supply/compressor, get a electric impact from Tractor Supply or Harbor Freight Tools. They're like $39 or in that vicinity..... Everyone needs one of these, if not for the speed of changing a flat fast in your driveway, or changing the blades on your lawnmower. (Remember to pull the plug wire when Changing those blades!) When setting up rears, I have a electric impact, dial indicators, sockets, a 24" alum. cresent wrench (for holding the yokes and flanges), several pullhandles, a gasket scraper, Minnesota Fast Freeze, sealers and loctites, torque wrenches in my SKB Travel Case
A electric impact is a necessary tool, in my realm of work. It will break things loose that the air impacts won't touch....
A electric impact is a necessary tool, in my realm of work. It will break things loose that the air impacts won't touch....
Keeper
Active Member
Before you start.
Clean the pinion nut really well, grab some white out and mark the nut/pinion in 3 separate spots and count the threads you see from the edge of the nut. WRITE IT DOWN! With these marks you will put the nut in the exact same spot, leaving the crush sleeve and everything else just where it needs to be.
I had to do the same thing on my S-10 when I had it.
Take the nut off, pull out the seal, take it to the parts shop with you.
When I re-installed I smeared some gasket maker around the outside of the seal, tapped it back in, reinstalled the nut and then just tightened it back to where it was before I took it off.
Never had a problem.
Clean the pinion nut really well, grab some white out and mark the nut/pinion in 3 separate spots and count the threads you see from the edge of the nut. WRITE IT DOWN! With these marks you will put the nut in the exact same spot, leaving the crush sleeve and everything else just where it needs to be.
I had to do the same thing on my S-10 when I had it.
Take the nut off, pull out the seal, take it to the parts shop with you.
When I re-installed I smeared some gasket maker around the outside of the seal, tapped it back in, reinstalled the nut and then just tightened it back to where it was before I took it off.
Never had a problem.
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