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Loktite question

Well, the screws are history. Unbelieveable how tight the nuts are - impossible to remove. With two fans running (ceiling and table) and the tank filled completely with water there were plenty of sparks but no need to call 911. I was just able to squeeze the dremel in to get the screw heads ground off. No matter how you do it I'm not comfortable working around a gas tank with a flame or sparks. Now to unbolt and remove the body, solve the tank issue, new master cylinder, driveshaft hoop, wire turn signals and a few other things and hopefully back on the road soon. Thanks for all the thoughts and suggestions. :thumbsup:
 
You might want to put longer bolts in with spacers so you can remove it next time....so yoy can use a socket/ratchet and a wrench next time.
Put a screw somewhere where you can't get to it easily is always asking for trouble.
For small screws go with nyloc nuts or some fishing line. Cheap, simple and it just works. Small screws like 10-32's, etc, use dental floss....
 
Yeah, that's my plan. I always use washers on both the nut and the bolt/screw head sides when working with fiberglass. That was one of the problems with this, the more I worked on it the deeper the nut dug into the fiberglass. Another problem with this was the screws were way too long and even if I started getting it to turn it woudl have taken much longer to get it apart. The replacement screws will only be as long as needed. I also tend to use stainless whenever I can.
 
Track T-4 said:
Yeah, that's my plan. I always use washers on both the nut and the bolt/screw head sides when working with fiberglass. That was one of the problems with this, the more I worked on it the deeper the nut dug into the fiberglass. Another problem with this was the screws were way too long and even if I started getting it to turn it woudl have taken much longer to get it apart. The replacement screws will only be as long as needed. I also tend to use stainless whenever I can.
Click to expand...

Don't forget to use Never-Seez when using stainless.

Jim
 
I know this is late but this might be something all of us should remember from Loctite's website:

Q: I cannot get an assembly apart where a threadlocker was used. What solvent will break the threadlocker down?
A: No solvent will wick into the joint to break the threadlocker down. This is either hand tool removable at room temperature or if not, it requires high temperatures of 450-600°F to separate parts. The products are thermoset plastics in the cured state that soften at higher temperatures. Thus, you need to disassemble while at the higher softening point temperature. Do not let this cool down first. Otherwise, it will resoldify. Solvents like methyl ethyl keytone and methylene chloride can be used for clean up of residue only after disassembly.
 
As they say, "if all else fails, read the instructions."

Jim
 
Anda good wife! :D
 
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