Looking @ some Heads
- Thread starter Swampdog
- Start date
#10088113
350
86-92
1.94/1.50
58cc Corvette Aluminum
That what I found on on of the "Chev head casting number" web pages, Self explanitory really. Really small chamber , it would push your compression out of the reach of pump gas possibly. You'd have to find out what you have now and talk to a good engine shop.
350
86-92
1.94/1.50
58cc Corvette Aluminum
That what I found on on of the "Chev head casting number" web pages, Self explanitory really. Really small chamber , it would push your compression out of the reach of pump gas possibly. You'd have to find out what you have now and talk to a good engine shop.
Hotrod46
Member
The only real way to know if you can use them would be to pull your current heads and check your deck height and pistons. If you have dished pistons and standard deck height (about .025) you MAY be OK as far as compression ratio. If you have flat top pistons, you will probably have a compression ratio too high for pump gas. Since they are aluminum heads, you can get away with around 10 to 1 CR. I was considering a set of 58 cc heads to bump the CR on a dished piston crate motor a while back. Seems to me I was going to have around 10.2 to 1 CR.
Also, I'm not sure, but the heads may have the center intake manifold bolt holes at a shallower angle than standard old style Chevy heads. The older pattern manifolds can be altered for the shallow angle or there are manifolds available for that application.
Also, I'm not sure, but the heads may have the center intake manifold bolt holes at a shallower angle than standard old style Chevy heads. The older pattern manifolds can be altered for the shallow angle or there are manifolds available for that application.
Mike
Well-Known Member
Everyone has been spot on, thus far. Use a flat top piston and you are going to be detonating the motor with pump gas. Standard bore with a flat top will net you 10.27:1, with a standard head gasket, and boring .030 will run you up to 10.4:1.
If you are running a dished piston, you could get by with the heads. From there, I would start looking at how much camshaft you are running, to see if there is any real performance gain to be found in the flow numbers. Beyond that, I really wouldn't see a whole lot to be gained from the swap, other than the weight savings. Any time you can get something for free, you're doing well. But there are also times when you need to examine exactly what you got for free and realize price tags don't tell the whole story.
Your intake will have to be modified to bolt on and you will want to take a look at the outboard header bolt placement on the 113 castings, as that may require you to buy a new set of headers.
Everyone likes the idea of saying they are running an aluminum head, but the truth of the matter is that it can be a bit harder to make power with an aluminum head on the street, as the aluminum head is a very efficient heat sink. Aluminum heads work well on race cars, as they are easy to port and easy to repair. About the only real advantages I see to running an aluminum head on a street car are reduced front weight and the 'brag' factor (if that is an actual advantage).
Put a little more money with what all the components the 113 castings need and look into a set of S/R Torquer heads. You'll have a much better head casting that will make more power than the 113's. Plus, all of your existing parts will bolt right on.
If you are running a dished piston, you could get by with the heads. From there, I would start looking at how much camshaft you are running, to see if there is any real performance gain to be found in the flow numbers. Beyond that, I really wouldn't see a whole lot to be gained from the swap, other than the weight savings. Any time you can get something for free, you're doing well. But there are also times when you need to examine exactly what you got for free and realize price tags don't tell the whole story.
Your intake will have to be modified to bolt on and you will want to take a look at the outboard header bolt placement on the 113 castings, as that may require you to buy a new set of headers.
Everyone likes the idea of saying they are running an aluminum head, but the truth of the matter is that it can be a bit harder to make power with an aluminum head on the street, as the aluminum head is a very efficient heat sink. Aluminum heads work well on race cars, as they are easy to port and easy to repair. About the only real advantages I see to running an aluminum head on a street car are reduced front weight and the 'brag' factor (if that is an actual advantage).
Put a little more money with what all the components the 113 castings need and look into a set of S/R Torquer heads. You'll have a much better head casting that will make more power than the 113's. Plus, all of your existing parts will bolt right on.
Last edited:
Screaming Metal
Active Member
our Mike Has spoken....
smokeyco75
Member
I agree with Mike completely. Unless you have dished pistons I would trade them off for a good iron set.
bigblk1177
Member
We always said there was a reason these heads ended with the # 13. I'm just saying!!!
If it ain't broke don't fix it.
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