Hi everyone, My name is Ron Cruse. I am 65 yrs old and live in Bodfish, Calif. Where the hell is Bodfish, Calif. you ask? It's about three miles above Lake Isabella which is about 40 miles east of Bakersfield, Calif. I have loved hot rods all my life. I can still remember the thrills of firing an engine for the first time. Spent quite a bit of time with flatbottom boats in the 70's. That brings me to my first question. Big block or small block? I always messed with big block chevys. I see most of these cars use the 350. Also, what about having a passenger door on the t-buckets. Most seem to not have them. I am 65 in good health but just a tad heavy. It's a real effort to throw my leg over my Goldwing motorcycle. I think it might be nice to have a door. What do you guys think? I am in the preliminary stages of deciding which way to go but Spirit looks like a real possibility. Any thoughts? I have many more questions but I will lurk for awhile and probably answer many of them. Thanks, Ron
lots of questions
- Thread starter rcruse
- Start date
engine24355
Member
Welcome to the forum Ron! You will find all the answers you need here. As far as your questions, I am not an expert and these are my opinions only, but I would say go with a small block and a door. That way you can save a little on the power plant as you do not need much anyway and invest that into adding a door for ease of getting in the car. The whole point of hot rodding or any hobby is to enjoy it. When it becomes work or a hassle it is not fun anymore (IMHO). Therefore, do what YOU want to do and what will make YOU happy. It is great to get advice and the guys here have a wealth of knowledge, but as it is has been said many times, you are the one who has to look and work on your car the most, so make it fit you. Good luck with your build and PLEASE post pics...we love pics.
der Spieler
Member
rcruse said:
Welcome. Lurk, do a search or ask. All of your questions can be answered here,
Part of the reason I sold my T a couple of years ago is because I too suddenly got a little larger and climbing in and out of the T became a pain in the arse. It stopped being fun.
I think most of the companies can build you a chassis set up to accept any engine/trans combination you want. The small block Chevy is first choice because they are plentiful and cheap. You don't need a lot of motor to make a T go fast. My speedometer didn't work in mine. When people asked me how fast it would go I would tell them that I would put my foot into it until I either got scared or Jesus shook his finger at me. Then I would slow it down a notch. You don't need a lot of power to move an 1800 pound car. I had a rebuilt NAPA engine that I put a mild cam in and an Edelbrock high-rise, Holley 600cfm and headers. When I had the 3.70 gear in the back I could boil my big M-Ts. I changed over to a 3.00 gear to get some driveability and mileage and I still had all of the acceleration I needed out on the interstate when I needed to pass a string of semis.
I bought mine from Speedway. It was a challenge for a first-timer but I had a good guide from an article in a 1996 issue of Streetrodder. (Send me your email address and I send it to you.) Spirit would probably be a good choice. I have never heard anything bad about them. There are quite a few members here who have built or are building Spirit kits. There is a company closer to you (Welcome to K & S Customs, LLC) that I have heard good things about. You might want to take a look at them.
rooster57
Member
I sat in all i could find and this was my choice not the cheapest but i think the place you sit is the most important second only to safety. Smooth T Body was Just my choice.
"T" Body w/ Door
"T" Body w/ Door
"T" BODY WITH OPENING DOORThe world's best "T" bucket body is now available with a door. California Custom Roadsters, Inc. has finally manufactured a 'T" bucket body with a functional passenger side door. This door is complete with hidden hinges, door latches, bumpers and a full tube steel support structure. To ensure quality, the new door body is only available as an assembled unit (body with floor and door). The choice of beds or turtle deck is still up to you, as separate pieces to allow for any combination.
Up until late 1992 when California Custom Roadsters introduced the first "one piece body and cored floorboard" there was not a proper way to support a door and door jam without major inner structure on the body and door. The strength of the one piece unit allowed CCR to build the finest T' bucket body, with a functional passenger side door for ease of entry and exit.
The door jam in the body is designed for maximum strength even without the steel tube body brace. The body brace not only stiffens the body but also serves as a solid mounting point for the door catch and seat riser. A separate steel tube brace attaches the windshield/dash area to the body side and into your frame through the cored laminated floorboard of the CCR body, while also serving as a mounting point for the pair of hidden hinges that allow a full 90 degree of swing.
If you are even thinking about purchasing a T' bucket body you owe it to yourself to check out our bodies. There really is no other body being built that compares in construction, looks or quality to any of our 'T' bodies.
Up until late 1992 when California Custom Roadsters introduced the first "one piece body and cored floorboard" there was not a proper way to support a door and door jam without major inner structure on the body and door. The strength of the one piece unit allowed CCR to build the finest T' bucket body, with a functional passenger side door for ease of entry and exit.
The door itself shows how dedicated we are to providing the best product possible; the mounting points for the hinges are backed by 1/4" steel plate, the door latch and hinges mount flush with the inner door skin which is bonded to the outer door skin in the mold to keep tolerance tight. There are even rubber door bumpers set into the door to eliminate any rattles or movement and to keep the glossy black gelcoat finish perfect even before painting. (note: door kit is not sold separately).
If you are even thinking about purchasing a T' bucket body you owe it to yourself to check out our bodies. There really is no other body being built that compares in construction, looks or quality to any of our 'T' bodies.
81105 • "T" Body w/opening door$1850.00(Complete with floor, functioning door, door supports, hinges, and door latch installed) Add $65.00 for boxing charge on any body. (Note: All bodies must be shipped by truck; call for estimate of shipping cost) 81120 • Smooth "T" Long Body with Opening Door $2150.00
der Spieler
Member
Rooster -- The only thing I have against bodies with the floor built in is the loss of creativity. They are alright if you just want a T or if you are building your first one or if your skills aren't as great as you would like. I like to think a little outside of the box. I want to be able to channel my body a little more than most and I want my kick in the rear to be as vertical as possible to come more in line with the body's contour. In my opinion it would be easier to put in my own floor than cut up the factory installed floor and try to repair/reinforce the cuts I have to make to get the result I want. When we buy our bits and pieces to build a T we have two choices; Build it your way or build it their way. And that harkens back to my post from last June when I asked "Is your car a kit car?" I prefer to do it my way so that I can say mine isn't a kit.
Okay. I've had my rant. It's been awhile but I'll try to maintain a calm demeanor again until next time.
Okay. I've had my rant. It's been awhile but I'll try to maintain a calm demeanor again until next time.
Ted Brown
Member
You are so lucky to have the option of buying a kit, as all the bugs have been worked out for you, you can make it look any way you like, that is why everything is not done, that leaves room for change... as there are soo many choices as to different hard parts to use.. do your own interior and paint, wheels and tires, exhaust system... stop and think about every hot rod out there, it was a factory car ONCE!!! apon a time, so be glad you have a kit to buy in the first place, then do your own thing, if you dare... I have seen a ton of cars that I would not drive around the block, let alone across the Country... CCR is probably the best around, as far as Ts are concerned... You get what you pay for...I happen to enjoy a great ride.... not that short choppy ride... from springs mounted in the wrong location and shocks either too short or too strong or wrong mounting, etc. etc. I am all worked up.. hehe just do your own thing, but get a T on the road, one way or another... They are the number 1 Rod in the World as far a pleasing the most people... Like yourself!
OK one more question, [for now] What about titleling a new kit car in The Peoples Republic of California? There are so many of them it must be possible. What about smog requirements and all the BS? Any info would be appreciated! I would hate to finish the build and then find I had to install lots of smog equip. and fenders and 5mph bumpers. Thanks in advance. Ron Cruse:sad:
der Spieler
Member
Contact your DOT and request their rules then go here (California DMV Registration for Custom Built, Kit Cars, & More - DMV.ORG) and compare. Between these two sources and whatever the members here come up with you should be able to get the right information.
rooster57 said:iijjpop funny you dont look 70 in your pic.
Gee Rooster, by your avitar you must be a spring chicken!:lol::rofl:
Ron welcome to the site. I don't think you would be disappointed with a Spirit kit. Bob, and Josh have got it all figured out. Customer service after the sale is their first priority. With quality second to none.
CCR---------no comment!:sad:
But welcome to the site.:lol:
Hot Rod Todd
Member
Greetings from New Zealand
Start by figuring out the theme/look you are after.
Then look at some buckets that have that theme and see if they will really be suitable for you to fit into.
By way of example, I love low slung 23 Tee's with oversized engines. But they tend to have no footroom for my big feet due to the space taken up with the trans tunnel, so I had to get a bucket with the bigger body so I could fit comfortably in.
Then with the bigger body, I needed a bigger looking car to maintain the scale of the whole thing. Then a big block looked better :lol: so I got one of them and a blower :lol:. I think my bucket looks great but it does tend to look "upsized" compared to a lot of others.
There seems to be a bunch of older bucket owners on here over 250lbs
But back to your project - you have experience with the BBC so dont feel that you have to have a small block.
And if I redid my one, I would put in a door too.
Cheers
Todd
Start by figuring out the theme/look you are after.
Then look at some buckets that have that theme and see if they will really be suitable for you to fit into.
By way of example, I love low slung 23 Tee's with oversized engines. But they tend to have no footroom for my big feet due to the space taken up with the trans tunnel, so I had to get a bucket with the bigger body so I could fit comfortably in.
Then with the bigger body, I needed a bigger looking car to maintain the scale of the whole thing. Then a big block looked better :lol: so I got one of them and a blower :lol:
. I think my bucket looks great but it does tend to look "upsized" compared to a lot of others.There seems to be a bunch of older bucket owners on here over 250lbs
But back to your project - you have experience with the BBC so dont feel that you have to have a small block.
And if I redid my one, I would put in a door too.
Cheers
Todd
Francis Blake
Active Member
:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: It took a while but it finally soaked in!
der Spieler
Member
rooster57 said:
I've lived in Oklahoma a few times over the years and I never knew they celebrated the noble yardbird as their state bird. I always thought it was the double-breasted mattress ----- oh never mind..
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