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lower front shock mounts

just for fun

New Member
Time time has come to put front shocks on my bucket! Poorly maintained roads have won out and the shocks are no longer a nice to have item.Getting older has made "basketballing" front end something to fear!! "Truck ruts" will send it into bouncing that may be as mild as touching the brakes to stop it, to almost stopping the car.
Not that long ago I saw a lower shock mount that went between the "hairpins" just before the axle. now that I want to buy them---I can't find them to save my life. Does any one have a source for these mounts? It was part of a kit as I recall and the shocks were sold seperate. These mounts were adjustable to fit just about any and all hairpins
 
Ron at RPM makes a hyd.conversion kit.
 
Depends on what type of radius rods you have, (4 bar will not work with this) you can make a pattern from cardboard stock, to fit to the upper and lower Radius rods and make your lower shock mounting tab off of that bracket, can do several 1/2" holes for the shock studs to have adjustment for length... one way... :lol:
 
Here is how I have done some on a 4 bar front end. I made new shackles with the shock stud centered between the pins.

Carl-FrontRadiusRodBracket.jpg


Worked well and pretty compact way of mounting tube type of shocks.

Just an idea. :lol:
 
George, there looks to be a lot of Heim ends with no safety washers... I myself don't care to put that much strain in the spring hangers, if that shock bottoms out, which it could, that will really put a strain on that unit.. Just a thought... Ride safe :lol:
 
GAB said:
Here is how I have done some on a 4 bar front end. I made new shackles with the shock stud centered between the pins.

Carl-FrontRadiusRodBracket.jpg


Worked well and pretty compact way of mounting tube type of shocks.

Just an idea. :cry:
now that looks good! what length shooks are those?
 
Just for fun,

Those are Pete & Jakes shorty Rod Shocks. 7-7/8" closed and 11-1/4" open for 3-3/8" of total travel.

Ted,

I'll have to admit to not being the most conscience person about the use of washers on rod ends. I have not ever designed parts that put a side load on the housing and ball rather than tension and compression forces. If a rod end is worn to the point that the ball can be pulled through the housing, it should have been replaced many moons ago. If the rod end has enough load to force the ball out of the housing, some serious redesign of the linkage is in order.

I would think that the small cross sectional area of the housing is a much more realistic area for failure.

625RodEndCutawayjpg.jpg


I think that if you look a little closer, you'll notice some washers on the 4-bar ends. They are a little smaller on the O.D. than you are probably used to and of a heavier material. The drag link uses a 5/8" bolt where the point to point dimension of the hex screw is 1-1/16" and the diameter of the housing is slightly under 1", so the head of the bolt is in effect a safety devise in the popular sense of the word.

Just an opinion. :cry:
 
Standard practice with experimental aircraft (personal type, like kit planes and plans planes) is to use area washers on all spherical bearing type rod ends. In 20 years of messing with experimental planes, I have never seen a failed rod end bearing, but considering what happens if one does fail in the air, better safe than sorry!
 
If your looking for the ones that Total sold that connects to the front radius rods, go to wintecfabrication.com. Looks like EX-Total employees. In the chassis section they sell the upper and lower shock bracket kit. They have the weld on or bolt on as well as other T bucket stuff! Hope this helps
 

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