New Member: Introducing Miss Enid

[Third DodgeBrother]

I guess every build has to start with a picture like this. Wheel base here is about 118", but final dimension depends on where T5 shifter falls to hand, with everything else set fore and aft from there. Drive train will be from 1986 Thunderbird Turbo coupe: Turbo 2.3, T5, and 7.5" lsd rear axle.

The sills are rotted out so a frame will be a real early rerquirement. I've downloaded the Youngster and Sizemore frame plans, already had the CCR, 1966 Car Craft, Chester Greenhaigh and Total plans. But I still have questions...

Ive always used a miter cut on the frame corners, like Chester, but it seems everyone else uses the square tab method. What are the pros and cons of each?

With the repro oval front radius rods now available, would the Sizemore type front suspension be a good choice?

Has anyone noticed that Miss Enid is a 27 Dodge Brothers coupe, and started a motion to expell me from a T bucket group?

Lenny

 

[Youngster]

welcome lenny ...

not sure what you mean by square tab. if you're saying to set the kick at 90 degrees, yes that's possible. it would actually work very well in your coupe. you could use quarter eleptics in a 4 bar set up. biggest reason as i see it to miter the rails on a bucket is the follow the shape of the body or hide the rails inside the body.

the early ford axle like sizemore used will work just fine. a '37 to '40 axle works very well. the '40 being the best choice of the 4 'cause you get hydralic brakes. another great set up would be the '35 or '36 axle and bones with '37 to '48 spindles and '40 to '48 brakes or F-1 brakes. the pre-'37 axle has narrower bones mount which give you a larger turning radius.

good luck with your project. keep us posted on your progress.

Ron

 

[rooster57]

Ok i will ask the obvious who is Enid, Town, Childhood sweetheart, Moms name?????
the mider method works good i think the tab method can be a bit stronger because it covers more area when u weld it. but i would only use the tab at the rear frame section. Mider the kick ,i added an extra support for the kick inside and rad the edges so its almost invisable.

 

[Third DodgeBrother]

Enid is the town where I bought the body, and after seven hours of her filling the rear view, seemed like a fitting name.

I was asking mainly about the mitered or tabbed joint at the rear corners. The Dodge sides have some odd ins and outs, so I'll probably do a horizontal miter or two to minimize the intrusion into the footspace.

Looking at the picture again, "Man, I need bigger rubber!"

Lenny

 

[rooster57]

so you purchased it in Enid Oklahoma???

 

[Ted Brown]

Sounds like you ment at the corners?? yes? mitered is probably the strongest, with a good weld.. Some notch the main rail to take the rear crossmember, but leave the tab sticking out to cap the crossmember tube... kinda your choice

 

[Third DodgeBrother]

http://upload.teardrops.us/userfiles/97/DSC01933.jpg

First rough mock up. Motor and body are still on dollies but I did learn a few things: There is NO room to channel over the frame. The Thunderbird axle is WAY too short. Placement of the T5 shifter is no problem at all, although the motor will move back some to suit my wife's short arms.

The coupe still has the framework for an angled toe board. I may leave this in place as it seems to fit the upright seating position. Thoughts?

Yes it did come from Enid OK

Lenny