No Spark!
- Thread starter rbsWELDER
- Start date
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
If you have voltage to the unit and the ground and coil is good, test the module, then the pickup. Do you have a tach signal? Module failure is pretty common, the pick up not as common, but either will create a no spark situation. The module is easier to to access. If it ran when you parked it, I would look at the grounds and connections and test the voltage to be sure those are ok first.
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
You say no spark, so have to assume you mean no spark to plugs. Make sure you have 12 volts to the correct pin on the distributor. Next, would be spark to plugs. If none there, it could be the coil or the module under the cap. Hit and miss on those. It is always handy to have a buddy with a spare distributor for checking these things out. Maybe corrosion inside also.
Just making suggestions for things to check.
Just making suggestions for things to check.
rbsWELDER
Active Member
Thanks for your reply! I think that you are on the right track.
On the coil, the battery post measures 6.6 volts, when the wires are attached. When I detach them, the wire from the key measures 12.x volts. NOTE: I have had the Ignition Module checked twice and both times, it came back as good!
What do you suggest as my next step?
Last edited:
old round fart
Well-Known Member
Had a problem once and after a lot of swapping stuff I fixed it by bending up the center tang on the rotor button. Wasn't making contact with coil. Here's hoping it's that simple.
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
I will check my spare dist. to see what reading I get. Could be it was in a rotation position that would change the reading? I will let you know what I come up with.
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
I get 12 volts all the time, even when spinning the dist. I did not have spark plugs hooked to it.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Test the coil. If it's drawing that much voltage, there's a short somewhere.
If you get a tach signal, the distributor is doing its job sending the signal, if the module tests good, that leaves the coil or power source. A quick test would be to run a external lead direct from the battery to the distributor. If it starts, that infers a problem with the wiring, if it does the same thing, test the coil and the wires under the coil for shorts.
If you get a tach signal, the distributor is doing its job sending the signal, if the module tests good, that leaves the coil or power source. A quick test would be to run a external lead direct from the battery to the distributor. If it starts, that infers a problem with the wiring, if it does the same thing, test the coil and the wires under the coil for shorts.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
There are wires under the coil, between it and the distributor cap, and those are the wires that run from the coil to the square recepticle on the cap, where the battery(ignition switch) wire and the tach wire connect. That was what I was referring to, sorry if I muddied the water! It bothers me that the voltage drops to six volts at the coil. That's why I suggested running a jumper from the battery direct to the ignition wire on the cap to determine if there is a short or bad connection in the ignition circuit, before the distributor. If you are sure that the coil is ok, and the module tested ok, if you have a solid battery source, the pick up under in the distributor is really all that's left. The reason I keep asking if you have a tach signal is that is driven by the pick up. The pick up is under the part of the distributor shaft with the weights on it and if my memory serves me right, you have to remove the distributor and remove the gear, then remove the shaft from the top to get to the pick up. It's been a while since I worked on one, but I pretty sure I'm right. If you aren't familiar with doing things with the distributor, be sure to make marks to make re installation easier, like firing order, base timing, and oil pump drive. You can test that pickup coil with an ohm meter, it should have between .687 and .999 k ohms between the two wires and neither one of them should be shorted to ground, meaning testing each one to ground should be open. There are some u tube tutorials that cover this if you have access. It may be clearer for you than my attempt to explain it, I'm better at doing than describing sometimes.
choppedtop
Well-Known Member
On my dist cap, the plug for the internals is at the back portion of the cap, and should be on the driver side. Outside of that plug should be two terminals. The one on the left is tach, the right one is for 12vt input. At least on my cap. Your mileage may differ.
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
If you have a 12 volt test light, you can connect the ground side, the alligator clip, to the battery source, 12 volts. Then touch the tach terminal on the distributor cap with the probe and crank the engine over like you are trying to start it. If there is blinking light, that is normal, that's a tach signal, if no blinking light, either the pickup coil or the module is faulty. It really doesn't matter which end of the light you connect to the terminals, whichever is easier.
rbsWELDER
Active Member
I trailer-ed the T to the NTBA Ocala event last week and I am very pleased and very embarrassed by the events that unfolded. Long story short, it was a loose wire, which one of our members, 'Cuz', found in record time. All is good!
Happy ending, we had many great cruises in Ocala/Daytona Beach!!!
Happy ending, we had many great cruises in Ocala/Daytona Beach!!!
EX JUNK
Moderator
I, too, attended that event and met some really great people. I'm glad to see that your problem was solved so quickly, rbsWELDER., so that you could enjoy all the scheduled cruises that were there in Ocala.
Jim
fletcherson
Well-Known Member
Sometimes a fresh pair of eyes is all it takes! Glad it's on the road again.
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