Oil pressure ports

[Johnny]

Well, ran into another small problem yesterday. I am going with electric oil pressure gauge and the little can lookin sender won't fit under dizzy, and the steering box is in the way of the other oil pressure port above oil filter pad. Oh yeah, can anyone tell me what size fitting goes into port by the oil filter?

I am going to look for a 45 degree or maybe a 90 degree adaptor to make this work. That's my plan unless one of you great builders can give me a better idea.

Thanks Guys

 

[T-Test]

Hardware store. Get a 1/8 pipe threaded extension or elbow at a 45* angle. Can also drill and tap into this for more ports if needed. Could also use brass fitting for same.

 

[Lee_in_KC]

Yep, just use a brass 45 (or 90 if necessary). I used a 45... no issues.

 

[Johnny]

Will do.

 

[Martin72]

You could also remote mount the sender (clamp around the can) in an out-of-sight location and run nylon or copper tubing from the engine to the sender. This works when space is limited at the back of the engine and/or you want to hide the sender.

 

[Keeper]

I ran into the exact same thing. Went to the parts shop and picked up a 90 degree adapter and installed it. Make sure you can still fit the body on after you mount the adapter!

 

[benT]

It gets really tight with a SBF. My solution was to run a small line to get past the fuel pump and oil filter. Welded on a small tab that mounts the sending unit to the motor mount. Works great.

 

[Johnny]

Picked up a 90 degree fitting and with the short 1/8 male to 1/8 female adaptor it works like a champ!
Thanks, guys, for all your help and suggestions.

Just one more question. I need to plug the other oil pressure port by the oil filter. Can ya tell me what size I need?
I have a 1/4 npt plug, but it won't go. Acts like it wants to go in but no luck. Not sure if maybe I need a bolt to go into that hole.
Thanks

 

[Mike]

It gets really tight with a SBF. My solution was to run a small line to get past the fuel pump and oil filter. Welded on a small tab that mounts the sending unit to the motor mount. Works great.

Ultra-clean.

Johnny, I thought that port was 1/4 NPT.

 

[Johnny]

It may be. It could have paint in the hole. I'll clean it up and try the plug again.

 

[sstock]

It gets really tight with a SBF. My solution was to run a small line to get past the fuel pump and oil filter. Welded on a small tab that mounts the sending unit to the motor mount. Works great.

Good thinking outside the box Ben

 

[benT]

Not much choice...between the steering box, fuel pump, and oil filter there was nowhere to put it. I figure at least this way it would be somewhat hidden.

 

[Screaming Metal]

If the plug will start in the hole, only about 1/2 to 1 thread, put a vacuum cap in the hole that just barely fits in it. Best to be too loose than too tight. Shoot a little dab of shaving cream (aerosol) onto the hole onto the cap. Gently run that tap in till the plug will go in about 1/2 to 3/4 way in. Make sure your plug will go in even with the outside of the block with a good forceful hand on the wrench.
Pull your coil wire and crank your engine, or if you don't mind a little mess to clean up, crank and start your motor for about 3 seconds. This will shoot the plug out, along with your shaving cream with all the chips.
Clean up your mess, and get about 3 Q-tips with a little clean WD-40 or New Motor Oil, clean out the hole, making sure you don't see metal grit or dirt. Clean till its gone. Apply a little liquid teflon sealant or teflon tape to your plug. Screw it in.
You can use this also to make your fittings go in further.
Usually the plugs are straight, but if they're tapered, chances are your gonna have to sink then a little. You want to have at least 2/3rds of the fittings threads inside the hole to help hold in in agianst both pressure and vibration.

IF, IF the fitting goes into the hole too deep, and your wondering what to do, go find a ball bearing a little bit bigger than the hole. Put on your safety specs. I have a complete set of punches with a radius ground on the ends for this also. (I save all the old bearings I can find for just such purposes!, or if I need to plug a hole, smack it in, then a touch of Nichol MIG wire or rod seals it all!)
Put you ball-bearing onto a pr. of needlenose plyers and let the ball enter the hole thats too big, hold the pliers firmly, smack the ball-bearing with authority!
What you have just done is 'stake' the top 2 or 3 threads in, reducing the diameter of the threaded hole. Check the fit on the plug or fitting. If its a little tight, you can get on the wrench some, with sealer on it of course, and she'll go into where you need her. If you made the hole too tight agian, barely start the tap back into the hole.....that should be enough for a perfect fit.