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Opinions, Please

Johnny

Johnny

Member
Okay, I have read and read a bunch of posts on engine break in. Now, here is what I'd like to hear from you guys. Should I use 5 qts. of Break-In Oil, or should I just use a Break-In Additive with a good quality oil?

Also, after I break in the engine, I would want to use a zddp additive at every oil change, correct?

Thanks, guys
 
Are you running flat tappets? If not, I don't think you need to worry about additives. Based on aircraft practice, I ran straight 30 wt. mineral oil for 10 hours of engine time, then changed out to good quality 10w30, although if you don't drive your T in temperatures extremes, you could you use single weight (i.e. 30 wt.) oil. I have a full roller valve train.
 
Just broke in my small block Chev engine with flat tappet cam. I used 41/2 quarts of 30 wt oil and 12 oz of comp cams oil additive that contains zinc
 
I would just use the additive. After break-in you might want to check out Lucas "hot rod" oil. It has all the zddp and the good stuff that oil used to have. We've been running it in our '27's. We buy it in the 5 qt jugs from summit.
 
Vavoline racing [silver bottle non synthetic] has enough ZDDP in it w/o additive, also Brad Penn racing ,Lucas ,Joe Gibbs. Do the math : additive +oil vs. good oil w/o additive.

dave
 
I asked the guy who is now doing our engine machining about this subject. Joe has been doing this forever and worked at one time for Jungle Jim, so he knows his stuff. He recommends using whatever your favorite oil is, and then adding a can of something like Comp Cam break in additive. I use Lucas Break In Additive with zinc. After the initial half hour break in at 2500 rpms I drain the oil and change the filter. To the second batch of oil we only use half a can of the Lucas additive. as it puts the zinc level high enough for a flat tappet cam. Then after 500 miles we change it again and do the same routine.

The engine in my 27 is a roller cam roller rocker motor so I don't have to do the zinc additive regimine, but I still change the oil after only a little while the first time around. There is just so much metal floating around in the engine after machining, no matter how well you clean it, that it just makes sense to get it out of there as soon as possible.

Don
 
I always ease off the valve spring pressure by leaving the centre out of a dual spring or using run in rocker arms that are 1.3:1 ratio. Smear plenty MOS2 grease on the lobes to get her through the first few seconds and then vary from 1900-2200rpm for ten minutes or so to throw plenty oil around in the crank case so the cam gets a good lube. I like the tappets with the oil hole in the face like the Comp Cams ones. Always used Diesel Oil, Shell Rotella 10-40 which has enough additives and detergent as well as high film strength. If the engine is "dry" - hasn't been run for a while I like to pull the plugs and spin it on the starter for a minute or so to prime the oil system and ensure oil everywhere as soon as it fires, then do the 1900-2200 rpm thing for three or four minutes. JM2CW
 
I use Castrol Oil Racing 10w30 with Lucas additive in mine. I also have the oil filter by pass plugged. This makes sure every drop of oil goes thru the filter before going to the motor. So any trash in the oil is caught in the filter.
 
A big thumbs up and salute to Ron, he ain't gonna take no chances! That oil filter bypass....I've seen motors get fried because of that thing! I always plug them off....whats the since of a filter when your running a high pressure pump, its gonna bypass. You know how much crap has to get into your system to stop up a oil filter? And if that filter stops up, to use the bypass, you got problems anyway....
I used to love the Fram 2 stage filters, they offered less resistance, which is what I like.

Any flat-tappet cam you put into your motor is gonna shed metal on break-in, all you can do is change oil and filter....those pieces that are in a filter are suppossed to stay put. They don't always.
We performed a experiment a few years back with the round track folks whom drive on asphalt. I cleaned several cams, to bare metal. New cams mind you! Now, I added some 'stuff' to the cam lobes, all different colors. This stuff soaked into the 'pores' of the metal. We ran 4 motors in on the dyno, 1 with no breakin lube, 2 with brand 'X', one with brand 'Y', And the synth oil with the best, either X or Y.
You would be suprised what the ultraviolet light showed up when we cut the oilfilter open, looked in the pan, and then looked in the lifter valley....the pan and the filter was plumb full of stuff....this 'stuff' showed up with uv lights. its a special dye.
Scarey stuff....thats why I love roller lifters....the scuffing of the flattappets makes me cringe!
 
Not oil related, but I like for new engines to fire up quickly and be able to run without stopping for leaks, misses or flooding etc. I try to use a carb off a good running similar engine. I also check the dist to make sure I am getting good fire. I leave the dist loose enough to move for a quick adj on timing, if needed. I am almost ready to do this with my first flathead and you know there is a lot of money riding on not messing it up.
 
One of the best thing a person can do is spend a small amount for a motor run-in stand. They have them at Harbor Freight salvage for not much, you can build your ouw for about $100 of leftovers.
I run all my motors in either on the dyno, or the stand, but its started and cam is broke in/ motor ran in, for at least 30 minutes on street stuff, 10 minutes on race stuff. It beats pulling a motor if somethings wrong, or messing things up cause you weren't ready. It a must have for those that want to run the motors in and tune them before installation.
All you need is about$50 for tubing and angle, a small piece of wood to mount a $12 gauge set in, a old tach(a dash of sorts), a boat throttle, a $5 lawnmower fuel tank, a little wire, ignition switch, coil or old ign system off the donor car, batt/a box, and a old radiator.
Mine even has a bucket seat from a Goodtime Van on the front, with a cupholder, a cigarette lighter, a little toolboard for wrenches, a fire extinguisher and a big fan to keep me cool....
 
Here ya go.... you get the idea....


 
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