Garage Merch                Ron Pope Motorsports                California Custom Roadsters               

Pitman arm

tfeverfred

Well-Known Member
Okay, we're still trying to get the slop out of my friends steering. It seems like the hole going through the pitman arm is larger on the outside and smaller on the inside.:confused: So when we bolt everything up, the pitman arm moves and a little later the draglink begins to move. It seems this is where we are getting slack from, but when I checked mine tonight, it's the same way. What gives? We have not adjusted the box yet because that would call for body removal and we are holding off until we have to.

Sorry for not having pics.
 
Your tie rods are set up for tierod ends like i have and not hiem joints.
 
Rick said:
Your tie rods are set up for tierod ends like i have and not hiem joints.

Hmmm... okay. I looked on Speedways site and I'm trying to find the tie rod ends, but I'm not sure which one we need. Can you help?
 
The tubes not 11/16 the thread is on the ends.
 
Fred .. Is there a hiem end on the drag link? Dose the hole in the pitman arm have a taper to it? If the answer to both of these is yes you need to one of 2 things. Either drill the hole out so there is no taper or order a '49 to '54 Chevy tie rod end from your local parts store. I would recomend drilling the hole out. The Chevy tie rod end is spendy because it was used on the '53 to '62 Corvette. Let me know if this fixes the problem.

Ron
 
You guys called it right. If it is a Corvair arm the hole is tapered, but not the same taper as a Ford tie rod end, it is smaller. On my T I drilled it out to a 5/8 bolt size and am running a heim end. My Son Dan didn't want a heim end on his, but wanted to use a Ford tie rod end, so we bought a 7 degree tapered reamer from Speedway and are going to ream it out so he can use the Ford end.

Don
 
Well, we're burning the early sun (thank God for garage lighting and coffee!:D So, we are going to drill the hole out to 5/8", but I noticed another problem. A very dangerous problem! I looked real close at where his u-joint is attached to the steering box and it looks like it's not all the way down! It appears that the splined section is only catching the top set of splines coming off the box!:eek: Lord only knows how the locking bolt went all the way through. It may have damaged the top set of splines. I'm very embarassed to have missed this. We need to slow down and look at stuff more closely. I'll keep you updated.

This is going to call for more coffee.:lol:
 
Yeah, there is a groove running all around the splined shaft. Your u joint needs to be down far enough for the set screw or bolt to seat in that groove to keep it from coming off.

Good thing you looked.

Don
 
Fred ... check the tie rod ends on the tie rod if they have heims there too. I have a shaft that has a 7 degree taper tumed on it and a slot so i can slide a piece of emory cloth in it. I use it to clean the bores of the spindle arms before installing the tie rod ends. The tie rod end should be very clean also.Any foreign stuff in there can cause slop in the joint.

Ron
 
Well, we go it. I went out, unbolted where the column support attaches to the floor and we both gave each other a crazy look. Then I grabbed the steering wheel and YANKED up on it. The whole column came right off ! It was NEVER attached! The lucky thing is that he was driving it like this for a while and didn't kill us or someone else! :eek::eek::eek:

I looked at the u-joint and the bolt that goes through it to keep it in place was finger tight. I removed it, checked the splines, put everything back like it should be and that solved the problem. As for the pitman arm, we drilled it out and all is good. Took her for a spin and the slop is minimal to none.

I can't believe he took me for a ride in this thing and we lived. Lesson to all: When buying a car or project or whatever... CHECK IT OUT FIRST! This could have been VERY bad for all involved.
 

     Ron Pope Motorsports                Advertise with Us!     
Back
Top