Powder coating

[TrackTV6]

Have any of you ever used Eastwood's powder coating system or a similar DIY powder coating system?
I just checked on having lots of smaller parts powder coated and even with the parts being glass beaded before delivery, seems $10 to $30 dollars for each item depending on the number of holes, threads to be masked. I've watched some vids on YouTube and looks pretty interesting to DIY. I realize larger items like the frame and axles will still have to go to a shop, but figured I could save some $ doing smaller pieces myself. Any information would be helpful.

 

[jimbo01]

I just went to a shop on Friday and was asking about the chrome powder coat and was shown an example. In my opinion it looked more like nickel. I wish the sun were out to give me a better idea of the shine and the reflection. I then asked about pricing and I showed him a picture of the car on my cell phone. His quote was $75.00 which was the shop minimum. This was for the front axle, radius rods, springs, tie rod and pan hard bar. The price seemed to cheap to be real. I asked who the majority of their business was for and his answer was Baker Drive Train. Sounds like they use the same color on the transmissions. I had him write me an estimate and he would guarantee the price for 90 days. I think I'll be making another trip down to see it again along with the other colors.

 

[butch27]

Darn: That's cheap. I paid $65. for 2 steering arms in something that looks like aluminum.

 

[RPM]

I did some powder coating several years ago. Just a simple house stove and oven. It worked fine for small parts. The parts have to be super clean before you apply the powder. There cannot be any oil in cast parts, you have to bake those for a long time to boil all of the old oil and grease out. I used the coating system from Harbor Freight, it worked fine.

A good friend of mine had the one from Eastwood, he likes the HF one better.

 

[donsrods]

I've thought about getting one of those HF ones just to do some small parts that you would otherwise spray with a bug bomb. But I would have to also get an old oven because they say not to use the one at home as your roast will come out tasting like crap the next time you cook something, and it might also be toxic.

 

[madmike8]

I had checked on powder coating prices near me once... They wanted $300 for 4 steel rims... um.. no...
So, I have one of the HF units and some different powders off ebay... but I still haven't done any parts... Seems like every time I buy an oven some family member or friend needs one... So, now I'm looking for one that the stove eyes don't work... laugh...

Ron, if you ever get back to coating or can arrange a set price from a local vendor where you could add an option on parts on your website it would be nice.

BTW, I know you've probably think that I have fallen off the face of the earth or given up, but I haven't. I'm scheduled to have my weight loss surgery at the end of this month if all goes well. I've kinda had to put a halt on spending until I get past that... With my wife still unemployed it's a pretty tight budget...

 

[RPM]

Yes you have to have a dedicated oven, not one you will ever cook in again. A small appliance gave us one just to get it out of the way. It was one they had to haul off from someone that bought a new stove. One of the burners did not worked , but the oven worked fine.

 

[oscar1955]

I have used the Eastwood powder coating system on any part I could fit in the electric oven given to me for the hauling away. The gun I bought was the basic (cheapest) and am real satisfied with how the parts turned out. Take your time and practice on small parts. I have powdercoated brake rotors, calipers, spindles, intake manifold, valve covers, steering wheel and a lot of small brackets. As said earlier, clean everything and prebake before coating. I have used wifes dishwasher to clean aluminum parts. Be sure and use an oven thermometer to check the temp on dial to actual oven temp. For the bigger parts I found a powdercoater in NW Iowa with reasonable rates. For $240 I had the frame sandblasted and coated. Included in the price was coating 4 radius rods, 4 spring leaves, front axle, 2 drag link, panhard bar, shock brackets, and a couple othe items. Really happy with quaility and price. Also frame was black and suspension pcs IH silver.

 

[donsrods]

Do you guys prime first or just use the top coat? (I don't mean "prime" as in spray, but with special powder coat primer)


Don

 

[railroad]

I do not know if this has been mentioned previously, but any blem that can be seen before coating will show after coating. I have the Eastwood dual voltage unit and their powder. Other than the gun with wires and hoses not ergonomically designed for using, I have had no problems. I am a little nervous about the low pressure required not to damage the unit. I have not used a primer of any type. I do prebake the items to be coated if there is any question of oiliness. I have just considered buying the clear coat and debating putting it over the color before baking. If you try to recoat after baking, it is difficult to get the powder to attach. I have tried this to mask blemishes. Another little trick that will save you some grief, get some heat proof gloves and try putting the item in the oven prior to heating it. You will need to put it in without bumping or contacting another surface. I have used the oven rack to hold the item while coating and slide it all in together. Another tip is to cut the stops off the rack so you will not have to tilt the rack to slide in. I do not think Eastwoods powders are the top of the line. Also a combination of Water Wetter, antifreeze and water will cloud the finish on the Eastwood coatings. I do not know how the other brands will fare. If you buy a used oven for this, buy big and a glass door allows you to watch the powder when it starts to flow. The timing instructions on Eastwoods stuff is good and works without watching the baking. I sat my oven on top of a cabinet so it is eye level.

 

[WMG]

I have used the Eastwood powder coating system on any part I could fit in the electric oven given to me for the hauling away. The gun I bought was the basic (cheapest) and am real satisfied with how the parts turned out. Take your time and practice on small parts. I have powdercoated brake rotors, calipers, spindles, intake manifold, valve covers, steering wheel and a lot of small brackets. As said earlier, clean everything and prebake before coating. I have used wifes dishwasher to clean aluminum parts. Be sure and use an oven thermometer to check the temp on dial to actual oven temp. For the bigger parts I found a powdercoater in NW Iowa with reasonable rates. For $240 I had the frame sandblasted and coated. Included in the price was coating 4 radius rods, 4 spring leaves, front axle, 2 drag link, panhard bar, shock brackets, and a couple othe items. Really happy with quaility and price. Also frame was black and suspension pcs IH silver.

Man I wish I could find that type of pricing in NE PA one quote I got was for almost 4 times that and most were in the 3 times area from companies that were a little iffy about the end product

 

[Youngster]

One of my customers has gone the Eastwood route with very satifing results. He found a double stove to use. I made a larger box for it out of galvinized 20 ga. The box was 12' longer and 6" deeper. We used both heating elements, one at the top and one at the bottom. It works great! I now have lifetime free powder coating. If you check the Miller project site, there is one a guy built that is 3' x 4' x 6' tall and still uses just 2 elements. That's the next project for Scott as soon as we get his Model A speedster up and running.

Ron

 

[RPM]

I do not know if this has been mentioned previously, but any blem that can be seen before coating will show after coating. I have the Eastwood dual voltage unit and their powder. Other than the gun with wires and hoses not ergonomically designed for using, I have had no problems. I am a little nervous about the low pressure required not to damage the unit. I have not used a primer of any type. I do prebake the items to be coated if there is any question of oiliness. I have just considered buying the clear coat and debating putting it over the color before baking. If you try to recoat after baking, it is difficult to get the powder to attach. I have tried this to mask blemishes. Another little trick that will save you some grief, get some heat proof gloves and try putting the item in the oven prior to heating it. You will need to put it in without bumping or contacting another surface. I have used the oven rack to hold the item while coating and slide it all in together. Another tip is to cut the stops off the rack so you will not have to tilt the rack to slide in. I do not think Eastwoods powders are the top of the line. Also a combination of Water Wetter, antifreeze and water will cloud the finish on the Eastwood coatings. I do not know how the other brands will fare. If you buy a used oven for this, buy big and a glass door allows you to watch the powder when it starts to flow. The timing instructions on Eastwoods stuff is good and works without watching the baking. I sat my oven on top of a cabinet so it is eye level.

To put the clear on after you have done the base color. Don't let the part cool completely down. I don't remember the exact degrees!!!!!!!!! But say you put aluminum on and intake manifold and then baked it at 425. Then you want to put clear on it. Only let it cool to say 200 then put the clear to it. You will think there are magnets in the manifold pulling on the clear. Then back in the oven to say 350. By the way if you are going to do this buy a digital temp gun to check the parts. A big part like a manifold will take some time to come up to temp.

Here is where we used to buy our color powder and supplies at http://www.caswellplating.com/powder-coating.html

They are very helpful on the phone also.

I had made some little hanger racks to go in the oven to hold parts on. That way we never had to touch the part only the racks.

 

[Northstar T]

I have the HF unit, which is the identical item as sold by Eastwood. I bought a household oven at a swap shop and placed it in my shop. works great for the small parts.

Russ

 

[rbsWELDER]

I have the HF unit, which is the identical item as sold by Eastwood. I bought a household oven at a swap shop and placed it in my shop. works great for the small parts.

Russ

How does the HF powder work?

Mark

 

[RocknT]

All this powder coating talk is killing me ,,LOL I am at the point I want to PAINT SOMETHING !!!!!!

 

[TrackTV6]

Well I went ahead and bought the Eastwood kit and a used oven off of Craigslist. Still shopping for some powders and then we will see how it works out. I'll try and take some pics to show my results.

 

[RocknT]

Cool keep us posted .... thanks

 

[Northstar T]

How does the HF powder work?

Mark

Actually I purchase most of my powder from Eastwood (Hotcoat powder coating systems). I'm not sure if the powder is also the same as HF or not. regardless, yes it does work well for me, but I haven't done anything "fancy". just basic colors mostly.

Russ

 

[benT]

You guys may want to check out Powder by the Pound as they have a pretty large selection of powder and supplies. They seem to have a pretty good reputation and even have an on-line forum for powdercoating. We've never bought from them as we typically buy direct from the powder manufacturers. While we (dad and family) have a powdercoating and ceramic coating business that pretty much caters to Hot Rods, Bikes, Race cars, etc, I won't give the "leave it to the professionals" speech. Powder coating can be fun and rewarding. I'm more than willing to give any advice, but I'll say that we have no experience with the Eastwood and HF guns and powder. I will say that prep is the key no matter what gun you are using. I advise on baking off any parts first before prep and coating is essential. Any metal new or old can have oils in the metal that will create issues when curing the powder. Off-gassing is another issue that baking off prior will help with. When you do a bake off, run it as hot as possible for at least 45 minutes. We bake off typically at 600-800 degrees depending on the metal. Most residential ovens cannot get that hot, but if you can get 500-550 that will be decent. Put a pan at the bottom of the oven as you'll have sludge a the bottom if not.

When prepping, make sure the part is fully clean and blasted. The recommended blasting media (and what we use) is typically 80 grit Aluminum Oxide. You need this profile to get good adhesion of the powder. Blast the part as close to when you are coating as possible. even leaving a part overnight can allow moisture to get under the powder causing adhesion issues.

And lastly, when you don't have an oven big enough for your part, or you're in a bit over your head, give a pro a call. there are some great coaters out there and when you consider the equipment, material, and labor necessary, the price can be really reasonable.

Here are some fun photos to get you inspired: