Where using an old FoMoCo cast iron 3speed with a Hurst shifter. From the bottom of the transmission mount to the top of the transmission it is too tall to put a crossmember all the way across the top or bottom of the frame rails.
Look at the picture,if it was made out of 2x1 and 1x1. The loop can be 1/4" or 3/8" steel.
Suggestions or would this be OK?
Thanks Rooster for the picture any more looks, it's an OLD manual transmision. The darn transmission mount is so thick, to get the drive shaft in the right place the bracket/brace is going to be around 7" from the ground.
Two things to consider here. Move the top tube back and angle the drops forward to pick up your trans mount. The other is to use a section of a convayor belt in place of the stock mount or add a tab bracket to the cross member instead of going under the trans with the crossmember. I like to use 1x2, 10ga. for the top cross member and 1x1, 10ga. for the legs forming a 'K'.
Two things to consider here. Move the top tube back and angle the drops forward to pick up your trans mount. The other is to use a section of a convayor belt in place of the stock mount or add a tab bracket to the cross member instead of going under the trans with the crossmember. I like to use 1x2, 10ga. for the top cross member and 1x1, 10ga. for the legs forming a 'K'.
I was going for the "K" shape and you're right. If I get rid of the factory mount I will have plenty of ground clearance. Forums are great. They're one resource I try to teach these kids to use because somebody has already faced what ever situation they may have....on their cars.
If braced and designed properly, the design that Younster is suggesting is very desirable, especially in a situation like yours. The use of 10ga./ 1/8th" tubing, though lighter....the sum of the added pieces strengh wise would be more than enough for what you want to do.
You can also attach plates on the side of the trans where the rear support housing bolts are. Making not a motor plate mount, but one for the motor. But, you would also want to put in some flex straps in there too.
Another thing to consider is the vib absorbing mat'l, (rubber) dosen't have to be where the trans bolts to the mount. A dog bone of sorts that bolts directly to the trans with rubber bushings on the ends would also work nicely.
Thats was what I was thinking there Youngster, We're at the track, I'm sitting here under the tent, these folks about ready for me, I'm sitting here drinking a glass of ice tea on my laptop....the way its looking....I'm gonna have to go to work here in a little bit. They're having ignition problems right now.....
When Youngster said the deal about the dogbones, the elastomer pieces on the bowflex or whats that piece of weight training equip? Anyway, you could have a alum. channel oppossed, sandwiching one of those....make a great trans mount, one on each side. Just a thought....
Or you can go with the old tried and true 2" X 2" x 1/4" strap, flat, not side ways, very simple and still strong, great for ground clearance... easy and cheap :foottap:
Thanks everyone...I kind of fell asleep on this. Been busy with end of school year stuff.
We are losing both our Principal and the Vice Principal. The one good thing is that the Director of Career Tech Ed is Very Interested in the project so next year I'm sure I can count on him to get funding for the balance of the job. I believe to instead of promoting one school it may end up being used to promote Tech Ed in the whole county.
It's such a shame to see the shop corses dropped in a lot of schools today. We can't all be white collar workers. Kids need the opportunity to experience the trades and this is a great way for them to do that.
Here is a trans mount and cross member we came up with a few months ago. Just got around to taking some pics of one. The 1 x 3 tube welds to the frame and becomes a permanent cross member. Then the 2 smaller brackets weld to the cross member, and the hoop bolts to that. This way you get a good cross member in the car and a trans mount that is removable. Why would you want to pull the engine to get the trans out? We sell these for $49.95
Here is a trans mount and cross member we came up with a few months ago. Just got around to taking some pics of one. The 1 x 3 tube welds to the frame and becomes a permanent cross member. Then the 2 smaller brackets weld to the cross member, and the hoop bolts to that. This way you get a good cross member in the car and a trans mount that is removable. Why would you want to pull the engine to get the trans out? We sell these for $49.95
It's such a shame to see the shop corses dropped in a lot of schools today. We can't all be white collar workers. Kids need the opportunity to experience the trades and this is a great way for them to do that.
Ron you are so right. At the iATN site in the Educators' Forum I read about 3 weeks ago that the Program that won Skills USA (formerly called VICA) national competition last year is going to be closed. The school program that has won the Ford-AAA trouble shooting contest 3 years in a row may be closed. What most school systems are trying to do is force tech teachers to become reading teachers, math I can do but reading is a stretch of the Automotive curriculum.
Here is a trans mount and cross member we came up with a few months ago. Just got around to taking some pics of one. The 1 x 3 tube welds to the frame and becomes a permanent cross member. Then the 2 smaller brackets weld to the cross member, and the hoop bolts to that. This way you get a good cross member in the car and a trans mount that is removable. Why would you want to pull the engine to get the trans out? We sell these for $49.95
Looks good Ron. What is the width inside top of loop and hieght from bottom of crossmember to inside bottom of the loop. This FoMoCo cast iron trans is FAT.
Thanks,
Lee
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