Rear drum only?

Hello, I recently purchased my first t-bucket. It has built 427 with a super t10 4-speed and I am not sure if the rear -only 11" brakes will be sufficient. I purchased it as a project and have not driven it. It has magnesium spokes on the front and I would like to keep them, installing front brakes will not allow this.

 

In case I was unclear, I would appreciate any feedback about the brakes; does anyone have experience with rear only drum brakes? Are they enough? Thanks!

 

Being the beginning of the week end you might not get a quick response but by Monday I'm sure will get a lot of feedback on rear brakes only. What I'm going to tell you will probably be pretty much the general feelings and with good reason. While there have been a number of cars with no front brakes built in the day I would tell you not to do it. You get around +60% of your stopping power from just the front brakes. When you have a balanced 4 wheel system the car wants to stop in a straight line. In wet weather that is a big importance for sure. Also in the event you were to lose either the fronts or the rears you will still be able to stop the car provided you do have a truly separated hydraulic system. I'm sure you can pose this question on google and get a ton of like answers. I know you hate to lose those mag spoked wheels but if they are in good shape you could probably sell them to somebody building a vintage gassed or altered race car. Just my two cents worth and we all know what that's worth. Stay Safe!

George

 

Fluidfloyd has given you VERY sound advice and I hope that you take it.

Jim

 

Been there....Done that , Rear brakes only is not the way to go. Any water on the road will get you into problems.

 

I will echo the previous few posts. The biggest problem is when you are going into a turn and have to hit the brakes. The rear is trying to stop and the front is trying to keep going. The end result is a merry go round and round and round. Sure does look cool but parking it back at the house in one piece after a nice cruise is even cooler! Just my .02$. Hope to see some pics of your ride soon!

 

Rear only brakes are a very bad idea...unless the car will never be driven.

 

If the wheels are spindle mounted-- get rid of them and get a front brake kit to fit your axle and new wheels. If the wheels bolt on then you can buy a brake kit to fit the axle and still keep the look as I don't see a problem in installing the brake kit and wheel clearance. Post a picture when you can and let us see what you have .

 

Built and rode a bunch of choppers back in the 70's with no front brake just a spool hub. Fortunate to be alive. Even stupid youth get by sometimes. Do Not Do It.

 

I agree LOUDLY with what every one has said, rear brakes only are for drag cars.

 

My 454 powered car originally had rear only discs when the previous owner, fitzee, bought it. No front brakes.
It was one of the first things he changed.
He told me it was far too stressful to have to plan your every stop well in advance.
Stopping hard generally meant just unintentially locking the rear brakes and sliding well past your intended stopping point.
Thats not having fun with a car. Thats living in fear.
Fear of hurting the car, hurting yourself and maybe hurting someone else.
Forget the spindle mounts and get a good brake system worked out so you have a smile on your face and wind in your hair instead of just a garage queen you dread driving!

 

Thanks guys! You all pretty much echoed my thoughts and fears! I haven't actually driven a street car with rear only brakes by design, so I was curious. I presume that the car was built for the strip, with the huge cam, gears, and slicks. I will likely be de-tuning it, but my initial intention is to make it safe, dependable, and road worthy. I will then decide its fate. I like the components that the original builder selected, but I am unsure how viable they will be in the 3-4 dollar per gallon fuel world. I am not sure if it will even run right on pump gas yet. I hate to loose the wheels as they are spindle mount and changing the fronts will mandate changing the rears to match, in my mind. I have several rag tops and none of them are intentionally driven in the rain, but it does happen, especially in the crappy Ohio region where I reside. I will get some pics on here soon, but it is just in the new to me project form and not particularly pretty yet. I am sure I will pick your brains about brake kits and related issues moving forward. Thanks for the advice!

 

More than one company makes bolt-on wheels with the same look as your spindle mounts. Best of both worlds.

 

That is a good thought, I am probably going to get it road worthy as it is and see what it feels like. If it is as radical to drive as it sounds, I will likely change the motor and trans as well as the gear and add front brakes at that time. I like the idea of keeping as much of the current setup because I like it and to save some money, but streetability and safety are king for my intended purpose. Thanks for your input!

 

Have you considered these? You may be able to get enough on the bay to cover the cost. Just thinkin' John

http://shop.wintecfabrication.com/c...6503578A40F35230.m1plqscsfapp03?categoryId=11

 

Yep, those front brakes are needed....its like driving that car with slicks on a wet road....makes for some scarey maneuvers....
On your detuning, all you should be able to do is change out the cam, possibly springs, maybe change your carbs or put them back stock if needed.
Fuel has dropped again....its like a yo-yo, and as soon as the gov. swallows that bullet and makes us pay the high prices regardless.... it'll be like fuel in NZ....HIGH.
With that thought in mind, and all, EFI might be the way to go in your situation. But, detuning the motor isn't hard nor bad. Will also let you peak inside there to make sure things are correct, since you bought the car....
If its setup for racing, and its a fresh motor, if you get a lifter box from the autoparts store, you can pull that cam and probably sell it....just keep the lifters matched to the cam lobes. Same with the spring and carb(s)....That way you'll have a little return to keep the cost down.
OR, Find someone that'll swap out with ya....

Usually you'll find some igmo that'll want to trade out his nice warmed up 350 with a turbo 350 for a fire breathing 383 roller motor with 12.5's, gear driven, alum. rod'ed alum. headed beast with a all out Hi Stall setup 350, complete with diapers....
Would be a good trade in your case.

 

Yea, I was pretty much set on installing front and updating the entire braking system. I have a rail buggy with rear brakes and it has a brake steer aux master cylinder that allows you to lock either wheel to allow tighter turns. I doubt that would be very road friendly though. Lol! I was just wondering how effective the front brakes actually would be due to the weight and tire rubber to road contact. As for the de-tuning: I think and fear that the current motor has high compression pistons and solid lift cam. To make it cruise friendly will basically require a complete overhaul and waste a fairly pricey pile of parts. I really like the bbc and t10 combo, but I also have a fresh 383 sbc with a t56-6 speed and my choice of a tunnel ram, weiant dual plane, tpi, or edelbrock pro flow efi induction on hand or a 327. I do like fuel injection from driveability and fuel management viewpoints, but with the limited real estate that the t-bucket has for electrical components and the simplicity and nostalgic benefits that carbs offer, I will likely go that route. I am also considering relocating the steering box and column from mid cab to in front of the firewall. Using the t56 with the hydraulic clutch will make this easier. I know automatics make this simpler, but I like to shift when driving a performance car...Its just more fun!