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Rear pan hard (pics)

John 89

Member
Hey everyone, longtime no post. I have been researching, but would like a first hand opinion. Judging by the pictures, does anyone think i should run a rear pan hard bar ? I know some people say it is not necessary with the buggy spring setup but I feel like see side to side action may still occur with my modified hairpin radius rods. Thanks.



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I know it made a difference on a 32 sedan that would not corner for crap. Added a panhard, and it cornered much better. It also helped the body roll. Now your back to square one. 1 nay and one yea.
Lee
 
Jon, Did you have to stretch your springs to install the shackles? The chassis WILL rock on the shackles a little, and depending if the shackles are loose,they MIGHT jump (go over center). Install a panhard bar.
 
I agree. The shackles will rock slightly. I would install a bar. There really is no down side. Install it as level with the chassis as possible so it does not fight against the spring as it goes up and down.
 
I'm with ORF, but I honestly don't think it hurt to add one either, probably easier now than after paint. As an OT aside, the name "panhard bar" is from the company that first used it, The Panhard Motor Company founded by Rene Panhard in France, 1891. I believe it is pronounced like "panard" with a silent "h", not like two words "pan hard". Your mileage may vary.
 
Thanks for the replys.

I didn't have to stretch the spring to get it on, the shackles don't have any noticeable slop in them though.

I think I'll go ahead and make one, like some of y'all said, it can't hurt and is a lot easier done at this stage.

Now I hope the front doesn't sway.....

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Ok guys I have a question. I am using rear high arc spring from a model T on the back but ive got it mounted to the top of the rearend and no pan hard bar. I bought a set of coil overs with 250 pound springs and am going to remove the model T spring because I don't like the way it drives. To much roll for me, so what I am looking at is if I mount the pan hard bar to the rear end and the other end to the chassis will it affect the up and movement of the coil overs?
 
Make sure you mount the panhard horizontal so you will have the least amount of right to left movement when the suspension travels up and down. The longer bar, the better and less sideways movement you will have.
 
Vince , if this is the rear of a T , why so heavy on the springs , most are using 150 -175 lb springs ...
dave
 
got the pan hard bar mounted and the coil overs mounted and all brackets welded in place. ride is much ore bearable then it was with the high arc T spring. Much better I think now than before. We will see how it does on a longer drive. At least now I can remove and replace the coils if I need to adjust for the ride. hanks much for the info and the help guys.
 
Vince , if this is the rear of a T , why so heavy on the springs , most are using 150 -175 lb springs ...
dave
went with the 250 pound springs because the coil overs came with 400 pound springs on them. so I figured if I dropped it in half or just above half id be doing good. mine is a model T coupe 5 window. Not the little bucket like your guys are running, however my next build is going to be a T bucket for sure.
Vince
 
Your probably going to end up wanting 150 pound or maybe less. I had 200s on the car to the left, and was way to much.
Lee
 

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