Rear springs for TP frame

[Coupefreak]

Is anybody running rear coil springs on their TP frame.
I have decided against coil-overs, and have opted instead to use ciol springs and shocks.
the rear spring bucket appears to be 4 3/4" ID.
I think I remember someone telling me that Monza springs will work.

fishing for idears

Vance

 

[donsrods]

This was a popular installation at one time. Car Craft or Rod and Custom did a build up series on a T bucket years ago and they used Corvair front springs for the rear (and also the front) of that car. They cut out some round steel and made the pockets for the top and bottom, etc. So it can be done. I went to a car show one time and a car showed up that was built from that series, right down to the cross ram Chevy engine. He said the suspension worked out very well.

Have to ask you though, what is prompting you to not use coil overs? It is just that they are such a simple job to install, give a great ride, and have some adjustability as to ride height that make them such a good way to go in most cases. Just a simple top and bottom mount and you are done.

Biggest problem with using coils is to figure out where the car will end up sitting IMO. You can sort of guess and maybe hit it, and if you are too high you can trim some coil off, but if you are too low you are screwed.

Just asking. I'm sure someone who has used them will come on and give us better info though.

Don

 

["The Bat" out of hell]

What Don is saying is,very good advise,one thing he just did not add as well,is with coilovers the adjustment can help fix the four corner balance of the rod as well,not just ride hight,this is very needed for coming out of the hole strait.
Many rods are not very controlible because of poor corner balance,all though that can be adjusted some by rear tire PSI,to get it right,you need to adjust spring loading at the rear end. With just coils in buckets,it is hard to too put spacers in to get balance right,just cutting coils off,if there not cut same make the two springs def lb.s per in. of movement[SR].

 

[old round fart]

I have what I think is a Total chassis with coil springs, but I have just found it and have not driven it yet. I have never seen coils as an option from Total, but accordind to Walker radiator from the tag on the radiator my car was built in the early '80's. I'll keep checking this thread to see what you guys come up with. This site is the BEST!

 

[Coupefreak]

My TP frame has the rear spring buckets already installed.
I was trying to get by relatively inexpensively (cheapass)
I do like the look and adjustability of the coil-overs, however, the cost involved kinda makes me a little gun shy
I have seen in the Speedway catalog, some "coil-over" conversion stuff, does anybody have any experience with them??

I still haven't made up my mind completely, and am still weighing my options.

Thanks for the info, and advise.
I don't plan on racing it, but can't guarantee I won't stand on it from time to time

Vance

 

[donsrods]

I know where you are coming from Vance. most of us have budgets to work within. I think though if you add up all the stuff you will need to make the coils work, and the time, coilovers aren't that much more.

The conversion kits scare me. Regular coilovers are built to handle the load of supporting an entire rear end of a car, shocks are not. I used coilover conversions on a '63 Pontiac I had years ago to get a little rake, and they kept breaking off the shocks at the top of the stud.

The older I get the more I do things the right way the first time. I've learned that lesson the hard way over the years.

Don

 

[tfeverfred]

Old Round Fart, I like the looks of the coil springs and they are very traditional, but that's about the only two reasons I could see running them. The ability to adjust your ride and handling (what little there is:lol makes using them a good thing.

 

[Youngster]

Vance... I understand about the cost involved with the coilovers. Here's the thing...IMO The Speedway coilovers at $280 is just one of those items you are way ahead on buying. I doubt you would ever regret that purchase. It's kinda like radiators, bodies, headers, etc, sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and spend the bucks.

Ron

 

[donsrods]

I couldn't agree with Ron more on that stuff, especially radiators. It is tough I know to come up with $ 400 to $ 1000 for a good quality radiator, but there is nothing that will take the fun out of rodding faster than a car you dread stopping at red lights, and having to watch the temp gauge.

On that note, we have started buying ours from PRC, and couldn't be more impressed. They make a beautiful aluminum radiator right in the $ 400 range and they are actually too efficient. I can't get my T up over 150 going down the road on the hottest day with no fan going.

Didn't mean to hijack the thread off topic, sorry.

Don

 

[HDWRENCH]

Coupefreak, I have a TP car with the rear coils,but I don't know much about the spring rate. I do like the setup as the rear socks are in the middle of the springs. Call TP and ask,they should know ...

Donsrods, where can I find info about the aluminum radiator?

 

[Coupefreak]

Thanks Guys, I really appreciate the info.
I agree about the PRC radiators, I have one in my '83 S-10 with a SBC, keeps it plenty cool.
you can find them here. www.streetrodstuff.com
Gary is the big boss, he can hook you up

I'll prolly wind up with coil-overs, but I'm just kickin' some idears around

I just want to get the chassis in roller form, guess I'm getting anxious:lol:

Vance

 

[donsrods]

I hope I didn't come across as saying the coils were a horrible idea. Lots of cars have run them successfully. The main thing is that Corvair coils are getting harder to find, and I am not sure if other springs have a spring rate suitable for a light bucket.

Plus, coilovers allow you to fine tune ride height. No matter how well we build them, when you get all the components on your car is going to sit just a little lower on one side because of battery placement, driver weight, or some other factor. Coilovers allow you to crank one up a little to make it sit perfectly level. When we built Don's T Dan was all worried because he put a tape measure under the frame and one side sat 1/4 inch lower that the other. I told him not to sweat it, and just turned one coilover a few turns and it sat level.

Don

 

[Coupefreak]

your car is going to sit just a little lower on one side driver weight, or some other factor.

Don

So.....just what ARE you saying???:lol::lol::lol:

I seem to be temporarily over come with "TfeverFred syndrome"

Vance

 

[tfeverfred]

Oh, I see! I'm a SYNDROME now!?:lol:

 

[Coupefreak]

Oh, I see! I'm a SYNDROME now!?:lol:

We all gotta be something Fred, We all gotta be something:lol::lol:

Vance

 

[terrymac]

I'm using rear springs out of a jetta not sure of the year but older mid 80's seems to work well so far. On the sidebar I just got a Superior rad for my 23. Aluminum 2 rows 1" tubes seems like it should work well but I haven't tried it yet. Does anyone have any experience with this brand?
Thanks Terry

 

[HDWRENCH]

Speedway has rear coils that measure 14" tall, 4.5" OD, and are rated at 175 lb, all this for $69.99, # 91649021