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Rear Wheel Cylinder Kit ID ???

Discussion in 'Brakes' started by Indycars, Jan 16, 2022.

  1. Indycars

    Indycars
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    I seem to have an unusual rear wheel cylinder for my drum brakes. The seals say they
    are 31/32", but I cannot find such an animal. I can find 15/16" and one time I did find
    some 1.0" kits/cyl for my Ford 9" SMALL axle bearing rear axle. I've searched on the
    Wagner FC-19000, but don't find any related 31/32" parts. I bought and have confirmed
    they fit, Fel-Pro 55035 axle flange gaskets. Also the axle bearing are Timken RW207CCRA.

    Can anyone point me to correct wheel cylinder repair kit ???

    Bore Diameter (in.): 1.378 in.
    Outer Diameter (in.): 2.835 in.
    Width (in.): 0.845 in

    Below is all the info I have from my original components.

    This first image is a composite of two photos showing how I took image below.
    I'm using a eye loupe that provides 8x power magnification. Since there are so many old
    guys, figured you might need the help. LOL !

    FP03_RearWheelCylSealComposite_03215_03216.jpg
    FP03_RearWheelCylSeaID_03214.jpg

    I hate to replace my wheel cylinder when it says "Made in USA". Since I'm into the rear
    axle replacing the gear oil and cleaning the housing, I wanted make sure the brakes were
    the best they could be.

    Ford 9" Gear Oil Replacement and Cleaning the Interior of the Housing

    If I can't find a good replacement, then my old seals look good and I will just go back
    together with new DOT5 fluid.
    .
     

    Attached Files:

    #1 Indycars, Jan 16, 2022
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2022
  2. Spanky

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  3. Island Girl

    Island Girl
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    Or maybe its just time to do that disk brake upgrade you've been putting off . . . . :D
     
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  4. Indycars

    Indycars
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  5. Indycars

    Indycars
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    I will have to put that on next winters todo list.
     
  6. Indycars

    Indycars
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    Well this morning I was on the Federal-Mogul website and clicked on their catalog. Which you can see is also Wagner. Then it occurred to me that since the TBucket was first finished in 1979, that the axle had to be produced before that. I just assumed that there were only a couple of different Ford 9" variations other than widths, so I didn't pay much attention to the year I used. But this time I used "1968" Galaxie 500 and that's when I hit pay dirt. I found my 31/32" wheel cylinders.

    DRiV - Vehicle Look-up

    FP04_RearWheelCylinder-Brakes.jpg

    Then I got even more lucky when I hit another website with all the different manufacture's part numbers.

    https://www.stockwiseauto.com/wagne...linder?Year=1966&Make=Mercury&Model=Park Lane

    Left Wheel Right Wheel

    upload_2022-1-23_15-30-29.png upload_2022-1-23_15-32-54.png

    I ordered the Raybestos from RockAuto, they will be here Thursday!
    .
     
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  7. Indycars

    Indycars
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    Guess what showed up today ???? Yeap, my 15/16" wheel cylinders !!!

    OhMyGod1.jpg
     
  8. Indycars

    Indycars
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    Changing from a 31/32" to 15/16" (a change of 1/32") in wheel cylinder diameter would have been a 6.3% reduction is rear wheel braking force at the wheel cylinders.

    Area (31/32") = .7371 sq.in.
    Area (15/16") = .6903 sq.in.
     
  9. old round fart

    old round fart
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    Does the new wheel cylinders say “Made in USA?
     
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  10. Indycars

    Indycars
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    NO, are you going to make me embarrass myself, making me explain why I'm not using my original wheel cylinders ???
     
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  11. choppedtop

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    Hands on hip, tapping foot, patiently waiting....well, explain, please.
     
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  12. Indycars

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    Oh, jeez do I have to ???

    Trying to delete those pics now !
     
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  13. Indycars

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    Really, I promise I was going to tell so others wouldn't make the same mistake !

    I wanted to shoot a thin coat of paint on the interior of the drum brakes so it wouldn't rust and be easier to clean. So I put everything in some white vinegar and used a halogen light to raise the temp to around 100°F so the reaction would proceed at an accelerated rate. ( I love acceleration ) Well it also pitted the interior machined surface even thou there was zero rust there.
    So I'm in repair mode now, which was only somewhat successful and untested.

    FP04_WheelCylSoakInVinegar_03230.jpg
    FP04_WheelCylSoakInVinegar_03235.jpg
    FP04_WheelCylSoakInVinegar_03238.jpg
    FP04_WheelCylSoakInVinegar_03239.jpg

    i-dont-always-get-embarrassed-but-when-i-do-i-make-a-derp-face.jpg
     
  14. old round fart

    old round fart
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    That is a bummer! Hard to believe vinegar would do that. Must have also made the inside harder to eat up the honing stones.
     
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  15. Spanky

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    Funny7b.jpg

    Sometimes ya gotta leave well enough alone!
     
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  16. choppedtop

    choppedtop
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    Wow! I am surprised it did that since it was not rusty inside. Thanks for the warning.
     
  17. Indycars

    Indycars
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    That makes two of us !

    I wonder if I could have coated the inside with some grease ?
     
  18. old round fart

    old round fart
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    You have been selected to experiment to inform all mankind. Coat 1/2 of the interior bore with grease and repeat test then report (i you want to do so). We will await your decision.
     
  19. choppedtop

    choppedtop
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    Maybe rubber plugs and make sure the bleeder and feed are closed. I doubt that 95 or 100 degrees would effect the rubber.
     
  20. Indycars

    Indycars
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    So you want me to see if I can screw them up even further ? :whistling:
     
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