Rod ends to Zerk or not to zerk

[thebearded1]

So I'm buying new rod ends for the ends of my hairpin radius rods because I want to use the ones with a through bolt and washer vs the one piece ones. Wondering if I should get the ones with the grease fitting or without. The grease fitting ones are weaker at 6,850 lbs vs no fitting ones at 11,350 lbs static radial load capacity. About 40% less strength if I go with the grease fitting ends. How do folks lubricate the ones without fittings? I guess spray it while un bolted so you can rotate it around to fully coat it.

No Grease fitting end McMaster-Carr
Grease fitting end McMaster-Carr

 

[thebearded1]

Thinking about it out loud my car weighs 1800lbs so i'm sure the grease fitting ones would be plenty strong for my car and much easier to maintain. Probably going to get these covers too since I run the car on dirt tracks.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Seals-It-WS6250-Heim-Joint-Rod-End-Seals-5-8-Inch-Hole-Set-6,33063.html

 

[Indycars]

I used this series which would be much stronger than the ones you linked to made from Carbon Steel, the QA1 rod end are made from Chromoly Steel. They have a lining of made of PTFE and they are self lubricating.

Speedway has them for $19.99

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/QA1-XML8-10-X-Series-Rod-End-Chromoly-Steel-2-Piece-5-8-18-LH,265273.html

Summit has them for $17.99

QA1 XMR10 QA1 X Series Rod Ends | Summit Racing

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XMR10

For the ultimate in performance rod ends, look no further than QA1's XM Chromoly Steel Series male rod ends. These heavy duty rod ends are commonly used on 4-link and ladder bars for their strength and durability. XM Series rod ends are completely self-sealing and self-lubricating because of their Nylon/PTFE injection molded race that keeps dirt and debris out. The ball is made of 52100 bearing steel that has been heat treated, hard chrome plated and precision ground. The PTFE race is self-lubricating and self-sealing, and the body is made from heat treated chromoly steel that has a protective coating for corrosion resistance.

 

[thebearded1]

Thanks those end up being a little less than buying the grease fitting ends and the seals and 4x as strong haha

 

[Hackerbilt]

I don't like the idea of greasing a joint, unless it has seals to keep dirt out. The grease will get dirt particles in it and wear out the joint quicker. I always used the self lubricating plastic lined style that Indycars mentioned. No slop in those either which makes them perfect for steering. I remember buying the supposedly higher quality ones that Speedway offered to use in my steering and they had more slop than the old ones I wanted to replace!!! I still have them in my parts cabinet. The plastic lined ones have no slop at all and last for a LONG time.

 

[AltBantam]

I am using Ford tie rod ends on my Bantam to mount the hairpins to the frame. I wanted to give the car that “vintage“ look. Heim end are probably stronger but I just wanted to give you another option.

 

[LongJohn]

I’m using tie rod ends because they were designed for that and you can lube them!

 

[thebearded1]

tie rods is a good idea too but I already ordered the self lubricating heims. Plus this way I don't have to make new mounting tabs with tapered holes.

 

[LongJohn]

I bought shock eyes from Speedway with the tapered holes.

 

[thebearded1]

I bought shock eyes from Speedway with the tapered holes.

I couldn't find any of those when I installed my Ford lever shocks on my rear last fall. I ended up making my own tabs and using a Dremel to make the taper.

I'm not sure about different sanctioning bodies but I know these through bolt heims with washers will meet the tech requirements for land speed racing at Loring which I hope to take the car to one year