Scroungers T

[rebstew]

I have been all summer looking for a body but nothing came up. I had this Cowl that I bought Last Chrismas day and thought I'd start on a project. I can't sit idle and I love to bend tin. So metal shaping 101 was used alot. I know this may not be everyones cup of tea so if it gets boring let me know and I'll stop posting progress.

With the cold weather coming on I am ready to stay in the garage. I've been playing with this thing for almost 2 month now and this is where I'm at.
$123.00 for the cowl.

 

[rebstew]

I went over in Ohio and bought a 24' stick of 2X4 steel for the frame. I went out in the garage and played with some of the stuff I bought but more than anything just sit and wondered how some things would go on it. This is not going to be something that everyone likes but it will be dependable, fast and fun to drive. More than anything it will be a form follows function rod. Stripped down RPU that will have a little salt flat flare, with a touch of early 60's show rods style. Sounds like two roads going in different directions doesn't it. We'll see how it turns out..
Here's the bones and the axle I will be using. It was suppose to be a model A axle when I went to get it but turned out to be 37 to 41. I'm gonna use it anyway..Someone drilled small holes in it. I thought about opening up every other hole to a bigger size but after looking at it I'm not touching.

I've always liked the look of the wide five rims so I snatched this front end up. I'll use everything but the axle. I paid $1oo bucks and another $1oo to have it shipped. It's not here yet but hopefully it will all be in usable shape.

 

[rebstew]

I had some trouble getting my front end from the guy I bought it from and in the end the axle was cut and this is how I got 'em.
I broke down the front end for a rebuild. I've never messed with king pins and heard all the horror stories about getting them loose. I guess I got lucky 'cause it was no big deal.

You can see where that yahoo cut the axle. What a goof.

 

[rebstew]

Took me a few minutes to figure out how to get the drum loose but I got it. The scary thing was when I took the cap off it was full of water. I poured it out and took it apart but there was nothing rusted inside. The bearings and spindle all looked bright and shiny. Not sure how they would look good with water sitting on them. The thought came to mind that the guy may have pour the water into the hub and screwed the cap back on but I hope he wouldn't be that dirty. The grease was clean and thick so I guessed it save all the bare metal parts.

 

[rebstew]

I found a set of fully boxed rails with a sweep in the front. I mounted the cowl and used tubing to brace it.

Then I started on the frame work for the body.

I sat a block down in it to see where I wanted the front cross member.
I also used the plazma cutter to get rid of those ugly brackets on the rails. See above pic :tongue:

The stock front cross member was right on but it was a little thin so off it came.

 

[rebstew]

Added a small gusset. Mostly for looks but it will help hold a little. The little hole will get welded shut but for now it's a great spot to ground the plazma or the welder.

 

[rebstew]

I found this for sale. I had to have it.

I'm going to run scooter style fender on the front. Alot of the older rodders used spare tire covers for fenders and I love the beadwork in the early 50's style covers. I snatched this one from the Nash and will be cutting it up.

 

[rebstew]

I have my front engine mounts almost done. A little more shaping and metal finishing and they will be ready to paint.
Used some paper to get the style I wanted.

At least the broken jack came in handy for something.

Transfer shape to metal.

 

[rebstew]

Alot of grinding

Tossed them on the drill press and shot a few holes through them.

 

[rebstew]

Moving on to the front perch. I may not run a grill shell so I wanted the front to be real clean. I welded the perch on then ground the weld down smooth.

I don't grind my welds and after I did it I was a little worried about how good the weld is with it ground down. I let it cool and then rewelded it. Fighting with looks verses form and function I still didn't like the look and ground it smooth again. I then went to the inside and put a nice bead all the way around the inside. It's not going any place now.
I added some gussets to it for looks more than strength but I'm sure they help hold some too.

I don't like a spring over perch setup because your u bolts is what is holding the weight. I didn't want the perch sitting way up off the cross member either. I thought about it long and hard and figured I'd do the spring over. That will get the front end lower without the tall front perch..

 

[rebstew]

I headed down to Olive Hill, Ky to hang out with The Carter County Cruisers. John, the Pres..had a S10 rearend in his Chevy and wanted an F body rearend to swap. I needed the S10 and I had some other parts for the club so I loaded up the parts chaser and took off for the day.

F body rear

S10 rear end loaded up.

 

[rebstew]

The next day I went out and bought some perches for the rearend and made a temporary 4" block to lower the rearend. I wanted to get the rear low so I could to start getting the ride height figured out.
With the s10 rearend in place I toss on the cheater slicks too.

 

[rebstew]

I got the front end mocked up to see what I had to work with.

Templates again were made and that old jack came in handy again.

 

[rebstew]

Still have to clean up the holes in this picture but you get the idea.

Cleaned the bones and hacked off that front spring hanger.

I put one little weld on the bracket and ran out of wire

I'll stop by the store tonight and pick some up and hopefully get the front end on it's wheels soon. Some guys to lower the front end drill holes in the bones and run a hanger mount. I didn't have the cash to buy a set from Speedway so I just made these. I've seen it done like this before. I like the look.

 

[rebstew]

Some days I get alot done and others it seems I sit more and look trying to get my back straight from bending over welding. I need a lift to get the low spots up to my level.

Vickers stopped down yesterday and hung out. He started cleaning my garage up from bordom so I handed him the grinder and told him if he's that bored make himself usefull. He worked on the brackets on the right side and got the frame rails smoothed out better. Cut some old sheet metal up and made alot of headway while I was woking on the bones and the front end stuff. It was cool that he came down and worked. A couple of hand on a car gets stuff done pretty fast. Riggs and Scott showed up through the day too. I know some people don't care for it but I'd rather hang out at my garage or someone elses garage and work, goof off or just hang out than do these cars shows some times.

The 4X8 sheet of 16 gauge was in my way so getting some of it on the body helped open up my entrance to the garage door again. I had to finish the tubing for the tub first and then start measuring for the skin.

Alot of measuring and triming to where you want everything. Then drag out a ton of clamps.

 

[rebstew]

I clamped the top tube and started hammering the top lip over. Two body hammers one in each hand. It's not a brutal thing but a tap from one hammer to the other. using the curved head of the hammer to lay it down without crushing the tube. Clamp weld and move on to the next 3 inches and start over.

It's about 2 in the morning at this point. 2am + banging away at loose tin = trouble. I figured I would stop. I sat back and looked at the work so far while I drank a cold Dr Pepper and watch a little tv.

 

[rebstew]

I was not tired and was wondering what the side would look like with the skin.

 

[rebstew]

I tacked on the top strip and a few other things and stopped banging on the car at 5 am. Amy, my wife told me she thought someone was going to call the cops on me
These welds are not done but more to get the shape. It will be welded up later.

 

[rebstew]

Another late night. I have the skin all the way around the tub now. It is spot welded on About every 2 inches. I will need to go over all the seams and weld them up tight but that's no biggie. A little time consuming because you have to jump around the body to keep the heat down. One spot will heat the metal up too much and cause it to warp.

With the skin all cut, shaped and tacked on I grabbed the mock up trans so I could cut the firewall.

 

[rebstew]

Just to see what it looked like before I called it a night I tossed on a head and intake.