stretch or not to stretch?

[EX JUNK]

I don't see any of the manufactures taking a chance on building that. Most of the molds we have, have been expensive to build. We have to sell about 15-20 bodies to break even. So it would be a big investment with a long term to recover our cost just to build a mold. Other parts we have been able to show a profit in less than a year. I am guessing 10 years to show a profit with a body like that.

That's why I consider myself very fortunate Ron, to have a son talented enough to build what my other son designs to fill my needs.

Jim

 

[Clint Curtis]

The flipside is that if the longer, taller body idea taking off, and some of the younger guys, that don't now fit in a normal bucket, would fit....and could build. For as much bang for the buck that buckets provide, it is a smaller segment of the hot rod hobby than you would think it would be. I guess if you can't fit in one comfortably, why build one. The other downside with lots of buckets is the high seating position. It looks sort of goofy, and probably feels and looks unsafe to many. Taller body sides would for sure look and feel safer. With a stretched body, especially a channeled one, they tend to look out of proportion (long and skinney). To add extra height to the body, you get the added benefit of more interior room, besides better proportions. Extra width would add extra room, but wouldn't add to improved looks. It would be easier to add width to the body, but the down side would be it not working with existing frames. I wouldn't make a mold with added width.....extra width could be added to the body after it is out of the mold. But if added to a mold, I wouldn't add more the a couple inches of extra width.

I have the bug to build a T bucket.....when a body I fit in is available I will be able to start.

.....normal looking , stock type dash.....flange at bottom of body to bolt floor to....hand laid body preferred.....

 

[benT]

I don't see any of the manufactures taking a chance on building that. Most of the molds we have, have been expensive to build. We have to sell about 15-20 bodies to break even. So it would be a big investment with a long term to recover our cost just to build a mold. Other parts we have been able to show a profit in less than a year. I am guessing 10 years to show a profit with a body like that.

There was a guy on here a few years ago that had a scaled up large body and mold he was trying to sell, but for a lot of $$. I think he said they were made for use in a movie. Nice idea, but for the cost of those bodies, you could get into an A or 32 body.

 

[fletcherson]

I don't see any of the manufactures taking a chance on building that. Most of the molds we have, have been expensive to build. We have to sell about 15-20 bodies to break even. So it would be a big investment with a long term to recover our cost just to build a mold. Other parts we have been able to show a profit in less cthan a year. I am guessing 10 years to show a profit with a body like that.

Not to hijack any thread or change the subject, but can rpm or anyone else tell me what the cost is for a stretched body and what the frame requirements are for a 23 ? I am struggling with mine and am considering stretching it while it's getting rebuilt. Thanks!

 

[T-Test]

That's why I consider myself very fortunate Ron, to have a son talented enough to build what my other son designs to fill my needs.

Jim

Lucky you! I got my sons and daughter away from working as hard as I did.

 

[Zandoz]

I think Jim has the right idea for a starting point...a '27 cowl, with a '23 rear section. That would give wider foot space, windshield and dash, with about a 8" head start on the stretch. The '27 cowl would work with off the shelf '27 frames, hoods, and windshields. The '23 rear section I'd use as a starting point would be from a 4 door touring car, from the leading edge of the rear doors back. Almost 7" wider at the widest point, 6" longer, an inch taller, and 2" longer doors than the standard roadster pickup rear section. From there mount it unchanneled and do a track roadster style belly pan to give the lower look without the channeling loss of interior height. <shrug>

 

[RPM]

Not to hijack any thread or change the subject, but can rpm or anyone else tell me what the cost is for a stretched body and what the frame requirements are for a 23 ? I am struggling with mine and am considering stretching it while it's getting rebuilt. Thanks!

Our 10" stretch body is $599 we have them with or without a door

 

[Johnny]

And it's well worth it!

 

[fletcherson]

Our 10" stretch body is $599 we have them with or without a door

I would definitely want the door so my petite wife could get in it. What are the frame dimension requirements, etc? I assume the frame will need to be lengthened. Is there a web site or the like with all the info, or is this the best way to discuss it? Mine is a 23 standard, bobtail. I like the looks of it, I am really struggling to make it fit me. I am 6', 220, and it is a standard shift car, which I like and want to retain. There is just not enough room to make it comfortable without raising the seat higher than I like. I understand making concessions, but if it doesn't feel good to me, I will just end up selling it, and that's not my intent. I would rather take a little more time and spend a little more money to make it what I want now while it's down.

 

[RPM]

I would definitely want the door so my petite wife could get in it. What are the frame dimension requirements, etc? I assume the frame will need to be lengthened. Is there a web site or the like with all the info, or is this the best way to discuss it? Mine is a 23 standard, bobtail. I like the looks of it, I am really struggling to make it fit me. I am 6', 220, and it is a standard shift car, which I like and want to retain. There is just not enough room to make it comfortable without raising the seat higher than I like. I understand making concessions, but if it doesn't feel good to me, I will just end up selling it, and that's not my intent. I would rather take a little more time and spend a little more money to make it what I want now while it's down.

Give me a call and I can answer all of your questions.

 

[fletcherson]

Give me a call and I can answer all of your questions.

Ok, in the next couple of days, depending on schedule. Thanks!

 

[Clint Curtis]

How would a bigger mold be made? Could you take two bodies and split one apart, and add extra pieces from the second body to add to its size in the proper places? Three verticle splits, cowl, door and quarter panel, and one horizontal split all the way around the body.

 

[old round fart]

You don't need two bodies. There are several threads on altering 'glass bodies. It is as simple as cutting- widen to desired size-bridge the gap with aluminum or cardboard- add glass and work your butt off to make it smooth!

 

[fletcherson]

You don't need two bodies. There are several threads on altering 'glass bodies. It is as simple as cutting- widen to desired size-bridge the gap with aluminum or cardboard- add glass and work your butt off to make it smooth!

Don't forget the long sleeves and mask, lol...

 

[RPM]

You don't need two bodies. There are several threads on altering 'glass bodies. It is as simple as cutting- widen to desired size-bridge the gap with aluminum or cardboard- add glass and work your butt off to make it smooth!

If it were just that easy. What about the compound curves? Especially if you are going to male it taller.

 

[Clint Curtis]

Another thing to think about is, with a stretched body, your kid that Grows up to be taller than you, will fit in it.

Or when you go to sell it, the kid that is looking at it , will fit in it.

 

[MovingViolation]

I'm 6'-4" using a standard body purchased at a yard sale. The last thing I wanted was to look like I was setting on toad stool. Moving the engine 2" to the right and using an automatic trans gained me a couple of inches and then reducing the amount of seat padding on my back rest gained me another 4" plus. I still set a little high but certainly not like before. Tall drivers can fit a standard body but it takes a lot of pre-planning.