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T front end

WInderout

New Member
I bought a 27 model T frame and body project. I would like to put the steering arms and rod connecting the sides under the spring and don't want the rod up front (like the first image) The front end has a 4 inch drop and when I move the steering arms facing the back and put the rod connected to the arms, when I turn the spindle the rod hits some interference and binds on the spring. This is not a speedway kit, I don't know anything other that the front axle says Lucky 7. I see the Speedway T buckets have their arms towards the back under the spring. Do I need to buy different steering arms? The arms I have are like 1 3/4 drop. 20250831_152706.jpg20250917_211605.jpg20250917_211516.jpg
 
First picture shows the tie rod in front. This was done to clear things, but is not optimum. The steering arms are also on the wrong sides. The arm with 2 holes normally goes on the right side and the second hole is for cross steering. Both arms angle in, which also points to them being for a rear position tie rod, for Akerman.
Since the current parts do not work together, you will probably need to replace them. I'd suggest longer steering arms so the tie rod is moved further back. But there is currently no steering box (if up front and cross steer) or drag link which would attach to the top left part in picture 1 or the same part on the floor in picture 3.
Also the shock lower mounts in #1 are not positioned right and the caliper mounts aren't either. The bleeder on the calipers should be the highest point for bleeding the brakes.
It looks like you are trying to bolt this all up and running into issues. Take a step back, get the front axle and components all assembled and figure out clearances there first, then how it fits on the frame, which is also unfinished. The nuts on the suspension and brackets look like nylock nuts, which can only be installed and removed a few times before they should be replaced. Expect to change them all for final assembly.

If you go with cross steer and keep the hairpin mounts on the axle, I'd suggest a panhard rod. They don't seem to be stable side-to-side.

I'd suggest trying to get an assembly manual so you know all this stuff. Speedway, CCR and T-Bucket plans all have various ones. If you don't know what all the parts are, it might be good to get more than one. Is that axle stamped Lucky T?
 
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Found a couple mentions of "Lucky 7" stuff. Seems they were sold by Summit 15 years ago.
From 2011
which has this link, but if you click on the brand it's N/A.

and one here

and this which looks older. You might reach out to this one to see if they are still available and if they can help with tech info and parts.
 
First picture shows the tie rod in front. This was done to clear things, but is not optimum. The steering arms are also on the wrong sides. The arm with 2 holes normally goes on the right side and the second hole is for cross steering. Both arms angle in, which also points to them being for a rear position tie rod, for Akerman.
Since the current parts do not work together, you will probably need to replace them. I'd suggest longer steering arms so the tie rod is moved further back. But there is currently no steering box (if up front and cross steer) or drag link which would attach to the top left part in picture 1 or the same part on the floor in picture 3.
Also the shock lower mounts in #1 are not positioned right and the caliper mounts aren't either. The bleeder on the calipers should be the highest point for bleeding the brakes.
It looks like you are trying to bolt this all up and running into issues. Take a step back, get the front axle and components all assembled and figure out clearances there first, then how it fits on the frame, which is also unfinished. The nuts on the suspension and brackets look like nylock nuts, which can only be installed and removed a few times before they should be replaced. Expect to change them all for final assembly.

If you go with cross steer and keep the hairpin mounts on the axle, I'd suggest a panhard rod. They don't seem to be stable side-to-side.

I'd suggest trying to get an assembly manual so you know all this stuff. Speedway, CCR and T-Bucket plans all have various ones. If you don't know what all the parts are, it might be good to get more than one. Is that axle stamped Lucky T?
I got the street rod exactly as pictured on the first photo. I knew the steering arms are backwards. I am going with a vega steering setup. I am removing the shock mounts under the axle. Thanks for the advice about the nylock nuts. I have the Speedway assy. manual. Doesn't show the front end in great detail. Thank you
 
FYI . . . I am running cross steering with a Vega box, hairpin radius rods and no Panhard bar with no problems. Not sure why Speedway thinks you need one.
 

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  • T Front End.jpg
    T Front End.jpg
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I know this corporation isn't a sponsor, but here's their take on it.

And Ted Brown's take on it here on this forum.

So Cal's take

Discussed on HAMB
more, including a dead perch

On many Ts, the small amount of front suspension travel, a heavy spring and often stiff shocks means the ill effects are hardly noticeable.
It can and will add to lack of steering response because the front axle can move side to side before the spindle pivots in the axle.

I don't want to start anything here, but having something work in some cases isn't proof it's the proper way for all. Your hairpins also are wider at the axle than at the frame, which is mentioned in the discussions (triangulation).
 
Thanks for the thumbs up, Spanky. I'd rather people have all the info to make a choice, and wasn't calling you out. Glad you took it that way!
Hey, we're all family on here. No offense taken. We try to help each other. If it were a real safety issue I would have installed it. But with my setup it seems to be optional. I'm a pretty cautious driver anyway so I don't anticipate any problems.
 
I bought a 27 model T frame and body project. I would like to put the steering arms and rod connecting the sides under the spring and don't want the rod up front (like the first image) The front end has a 4 inch drop and when I move the steering arms facing the back and put the rod connected to the arms, when I turn the spindle the rod hits some interference and binds on the spring. This is not a speedway kit, I don't know anything other that the front axle says Lucky 7. I see the Speedway T buckets have their arms towards the back under the spring. Do I need to buy different steering arms? The arms I have are like 1 3/4 drop. View attachment 26719View attachment 26720View attachment 26721
I would start by replacing that front perch. The drop perch you have on there was meant for a spring over axle, you have a spring behind. This setting the frame too low. Thus messing up all the other clearences. Probably still going to need longer steering arms. We make steering arms and can make them as long as you need.
 
Depends on actual ride height, ready to drive. Mine tucks between the hairpin arms and under the frame.

EDIT: Just saw RPM's reply. This one is spring over and while it doesn't have a lot of suspension travel, it's not worse than most.
You can compare the two and see where things need to be to play well together.

FRONT.jpg
 
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The picture in the Deathtrap thread shows a rear tie rod but at the top, not the bottom.
The upper left arm has both the tie rod arm and the drag link arm.
This can end up running into the radiator and headlight brackets, but the spring behind you have spaces everything forward so it may clear.
With a cross steer, this would require a low steering arm on the right and a tie rod arm on both top locations.
Chassis.jpg
 
This one in the Sat In Texas thread shows a spring behind and a rear tie rod.
In this case, the spring perch is very long, but with careful planning, the tie rod could be under the frame.
Look at lots of these and spot the differences!
FB_IMG_1758466984110.jpg
 
I love discussions like this showing we all may have different perspectives and are open to sharing them.
Thanks for sharing them and making this a place where we can all ask for help sometimes.
 
Thanks all, I ordered some Speedway arms. I'm pretty sure try will need a 2 inch drop. I wish they offered lower ford style arms. I'm going to have to install the engine and transmission to see how much clearance I will need. I have a vega steering box already, so I want to go that way. I have to weld the vega mounting bracket and also the brake pedal. I'd sure like to know where to install them to make sure I put them in the right location. Also would like to install the steering wheel. But the body will need to be beefed up cause it's pretty thin. I have been looking at the 27 T body that Sprint cars has. That looks like it's close to paint.
 

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