The 5 speed swap

[EX JUNK]

Bob,

May I suggest another way to get a very snug fit on a new trans tunnel. This is the method that I used on my fiberglass floor.

I used "plumbers strap" and a ton of very short screws and nuts to conform the strap as close as possible to the shape of the trans.

I then covered the "skeletal" framework with gaff tape or you could also use duct tape.

I then laid the fiberglass over the tape.

After removing the skeletal mold, I fitted the newly made cover making a double flange type connection to the existing floor.

When finished it is completely smooth on both sides.

You do not have to go to the trouble of making it smooth on both sides but I admit to being a bit anal on all my builds.

Jim

 

[Hotrod46]

Bob

As I said, there might be a better way. I think Ex Junk's way would work better on the 5 speed. My way works good for fairly simple shapes, but his way would allow you to fit it close to the odd shaped manual. Either way, building a new trans tunnel is doable and not that complicated. It is messy, but working with glass usually is.

Go for it and good luck!

Mike

 

[deckofficer]

Jim,

All I can say is WOW. You really document your work beatifully. And I agree, the sanding both top and bottom is a little much, but it does show the degree that you fine tune your build. I have custom made carpet, that is removable for the top, and the bottom, well as much as I would love to display with mirrors a flawless bottom, I do drive the T a lot. I'm too lazy to ever clean to show standards the bottom. Anyone that is lucky enough to buy a rod that you built will be rewarded with true attention to detail.

Bob

 

[PaulR]

Bob,

An inquiring mind (mine...) would like to know what is going to happen to the Muncie? I know I asked for opinions a while back about a manual vs. automatic, I still like the sound of a v8, going thru the gears with a manual. Even though I'm putting a 700r4 in my ride, I'll eventually put a 4 or 5 speed in it. Like others have said these cars are never completely finished.

Thanks,

PaulR

 

[deckofficer]

PaulR,

I have offered the original builder/owner of the car the Muncie. He said he would like it and I haven't shipped it to him yet. We didn't discuss price at that time because neither of us had researched what used Muncies are going for. Fully rebuilt runs $1600.00, and from what little research I've done, used in good working order bring between $600.00 to $800.00. Since I bought his T during the bad economy for a low price, I figured on the low end for resale of the Muncie back to him.

As far as the 700R4, you will not be disapointed with that choice. You might want to set it up to be able to over ride lock up disengagement (keeping it locked during heavy throttle) and you will have the best of both worlds.

Bob

 

[deckofficer]

New transmission cross brace (still just tack welded and waiting on paint to be mixed) fully cut out, trans tucked in so well have been able to decrease driveline to yoke angle from 4.5 degrees to 2.5 degrees.

Bob

 

[Northstar T]

I use a slightly more down and dirty method of making a fiberglass tunnel by cutting a spare chunk of foil backed jute insulation material to lay over the trans, then covered it, and part of the floor, with 2" wide masking tape (resin will not stick to the masking tape). this made a very close fitting tunnel with very little effort.

Russ

 

[one finger john]

Will the trans go up a little more with the trans mount in place ? Hmmm .... maybe it's already in place.
Do I see two flat areas for a cup holder (maybe two) ?

John

 

[deckofficer]

Trans mount is in place, only tack welded at this time. Need to get some paint mixed to match. This new mount has allowed me to reduce those darn driveshaft to yoke angles, whew. The shift lever is a new project. I have always liked the Hurst flat bar shift lever for manual transmissions, and is what was set up on the Muncie. I have (2) differant seat selections that drop in the bucket and the old flat bar shift lever has gone through too many angle mods. I'm considering starting from scratch so that I can have the "perfect" distance and height. No more gorilla stance shifting. Then of course chrome plate the finished product. Has anyone done a manual shift lever?

 

[2old2fast]

I made my shift lever out of 3/8 ss bar stock, then polished it, no chrome to flake or rust! On another note, this would be an ideal time for you to fab a drop out tranny mount, make life a bunch easier for any service work down the road . just a thought??

dave

 

[deckofficer]

I made my shift lever out of 3/8 ss bar stock, then polished it, no chrome to flake or rust! On another note, this would be an ideal time for you to fab a drop out tranny mount, make life a bunch easier for any service work down the road . just a thought??

dave

Dave,

Boy, do you have a good memory. That was an issue back with the 355 sbc, after having the 383 built, bracketed the ends and bolted to the frame for easy future removal. But now, have discarded for a new bolted drop out trans mount. How easy is it to heat and flatten an end of that 3/8 ss ? How far up will it discolor from the heat point? Does it discolor from the less amount of heat required to fab a big "C" bend in it?

Bob

 

[2old2fast]

Bob, I made mine out of flat stock, cut the shape I wanted{that would work} notched the top 3/8 wide by 1" deep, cut the head off of an appropriate length 3/8" bolt , set the bolt in the slot and welded it in, ground it down and polished.


dave

 

[deckofficer]

Bob, I made mine out of flat stock, cut the shape I wanted{that would work} notched the top 3/8 wide by 1" deep, cut the head off of an appropriate length 3/8" bolt , set the bolt in the slot and welded it in, ground it down and polished.


dave

Dave,

Sounds like that will be what I will do. I know you said bar stock, but my aged brain was seeing "rod". Now you understand that stupid "discoloration" comment on my part. Doing it your way will allow a radical forward (towards the firewall) angle right off the shift stub, then a nice big reverse "C" angle coming back to where my hand would be for non-gorilla shifting. What tansmission are you running?

Bob

 

[2old2fast]

Bob, M-20 4-spd. [1 i,ve owned since '67]

dave

 

[PrimoRod]

Bob- deckofficer asked me to post that the 5 speed is in. He said he got some good pointers on this thread and wanted to close it out on a positive note. On his recent trip he got 24.6, 30.2, 15.9, and 28.2 mpg.

He said it is geared high enough for him now.

 

[Ted Brown]

Looks to be running at about 113 MPH, and 2700 RPM, plus the engine is running cool as a cucumber... Get them bugs!!!

 

[one finger john]

IIRC, D.O. was using a carburetor for fuel delivery, not fuel injection. And I have to assume that he does not have any knock control or warning devices for when his engine goes into detonation. With that in mind, with his propensity to load the bottom end with high gear roll ons and very low rpm's when cruising, I wonder how long the bottom end will last, especially if you throw in detonation. Also, @1700 rpms the oil pressure would be approximately 40 lbs. Easy to achieve with pump and relief spring juggling. But does that mean he is in danger of running the pan dry at upper rpm ranges. Even with over drive. I guess that it all comes down to driver habits and vehicle weight.

John

 

[Ted Brown]

I like my RPMs up a bit more than Bob does, when ever I want to go, I down shift to what ever gear feels the best and depending on how quick I want to go... Anyone trying to pull the same using a high gear, would be left in the dust...

 

[Mike]

And I have to assume that he does not have any knock control or warning devices for when his engine goes into detonation. With that in mind, with his propensity to load the bottom end with high gear roll ons and very low rpm's when cruising, I wonder how long the bottom end will last, especially if you throw in detonation.

Unless you were planning on running in a lower gear a lot of the time, you'd be knocking the bearings out of it on a regular basis. We've enough hills in the local terrain that a combination like that would result in using a lower gear for a large percentage of any drive.

I don't know about you fellows on the Left Coast, but 115 MPH is going to attract a lot more legal attention than we Hoosiers care to have. :winkn: So let's look at what happens when you start driving within legal limits. What kind of RPM would you see 65 MPH? 1400 - 1500 RPM? What about on a state highway, with a 55 MPH limit? 1200 RPM? Miles per gallon looks good, but miles per bearing set is really going to suck. He will have the advantage of being able to run 200 MPH at less than 5,000 RPM, however. I'm thinking that capability will come in handy when... :thinkn: Never mind.

Even if he was lucky enough to pick up 10 MPG, it's still going to take about 4,000 miles of driving with $4.00/gallon gasoline to pay for a good knock sensor. :nod:

It looks like he accomplished what he was hoping to accomplish. To each his own.

 

[409T]

I don't know about you fellows on the Left Coast, but 115 MPH is going to attract a lot more legal attention than we Hoosiers care to have.

The fines are so high in California now that if you were caught going 115 MPH you would have to forfeit your T-bucket and also build them one more.

Jeff