This is my first one , any comments ?

[itstulsa2]

This is the first one , and im trying to do my best at low cost , I always wanted one and I became ill a while back so this is going to slow me down along with keeping the cost to a min,, id any one has any used parts they want to sell , Im still in need of a sprint nose and id like a roadster tail but again we all want things we cant have so If you might have just a t bucket tail id be interested to.
about this one ,, Im doing a 89 jag rear end ,, speedway motors frount end a 350 turbo and 350 eng,, mostly stock.
But mostly Id like to thank all if you with your ideas and suggestions..with out people like you t buckets would go away , so thanks to all and god bless....ill post pics soon ,,

 

[butch27]

Welcome: If this is your first one I would shy away from the Jag rear.

 

[itstulsa2]

Welcome: If this is your first one I would shy away from the Jag rear.

why iw that

 

[Francis Blake]

I have not personally installed a jag rear end but several of the club members ( that I am a member of )have jag rear ends in their t's and from what I see and hear, unless you are a good welder and a good mechanic that is a big bite to chew. I have an s10 in my roadster and setting all the angles an getting the ride hight right is enough for me.Good luck with your build.

 

[rooster57]

Francis is right the jag rear end is complicated at best . I would bet even Ted would say Why

 

[Gerry]

Francis is right the jag rear end is complicated at best . I would bet even Ted would say Why

Yep
Jag IRS is not an easy thing. They look like a million dollars chromed and rotating but if they aint put in right they are a nightmare. Just remember they are designed for a 2 ton car so in a T there is work to do.
Dont be put off just get someone who knows what they are doing. There good info and a sponsor of this forum has lots of info on this
Gerry

 

[Youngster]

Well some one has to stick their neck out here so I guess it's my turn. I thought there was something magical about them too till I researched the Jag. They really aren't much more difficult to set up than a solid axle.

It seems it's important to keep the axles as level as possible when the car is loaded. There are shims to help achieve this.

Another thing I have been advised of is the control rods. I'm told they need to be the same distance apart where they attach to the frame as the swing arms or trunions are on the gear housing. This lets the swing arms and control rods act as a sort of "A" frame without binding.

As far as springing goes, you don't need dual coil overs in a T. The set mounted in front of the axle will give the best ride quality. As Ted says leverage and shock angle comes into play here. I agree with him. If you want the bling of 4 coilovers find some used coil overs and drill a hole to let the oil or gas out and don't over tighten the spring on the shock body.

One last thing. Ted also preaches rubber or urathane mounting. Again I agree. Here's what I'm doing with mine. The crossmember is made from 3/16" stock welded as a box in section and uses 2 Pete & Jake heavy duty bushings. I stole the idea from the Coevette crossmember. The control rods and the pinion stabilizer bars will also use bushed ends.This is to prevent road vibs from being transfered to the frame.

Jag bolt n cross member;

If you have any input, please comment.

Ron

 

[Screaming Metal]

Darn Youngster, look at you!!! Getting fancy of us! Yep, Ted will give us the lowdown! Oh the IRS, as long as everything is level, the arms are operating in the same plane, the Centerline of the arm (pivots) are centered to the frame and the centersection is level and centered to the frame....its not bad. Just too many moving parts for me though...but ya'll know I'm a 1/4 mile person ! Ha! Just my 2 Pecos....they look killer though, got to admit. I like the way they look and all....just don't want to set up anymore than I have to.

If I do, I'm gonna build myself a fixture to hold everything where it needs to be and I'll just level and center my fixture to the frame...

 

[sharpmark]

this is a picture of the jag rear in my 30 a pickup awile ago.it has 4 coilovers and if you look closely you can see how its mounted and where the radius arms go-they end up level with the front driveshaft universal and are inline with the bottom arm pivot lines.lots of work to get right but very pleasing when you are finished.

 

[butch27]

As my old car owner when I was racing used to say " Just something else to *&*$ up. Wouldn't even give me a real comfortable seat! Said "I don't want you to get "TOO" comfortable" Ah the good old days.

 

[Youngster]

Nice work Mark!!!

Ron

 

[Mike]

Nice work Mark!!!

Plus 1.

But did you have to set the standard so high for Youngster? Because we all know he will try to eclipse it. :winkn:

 

[itstulsa2]

this is a picture of the jag rear in my 30 a pickup awile ago.it has 4 coilovers and if you look closely you can see how its mounted and where the radius arms go-they end up level with the front driveshaft universal and are inline with the bottom arm pivot lines.lots of work to get right but very pleasing when you are finished.

wThanks a lot guys ,, a lot of help and ideas,,,one more I need to ask you pros,what did you do about the ceter section of set ,, did you set it in the center of the frame and make up the offset in the drive line ,, again thanks

 

[Gerry]

OK guys.
Lets be honest here the whole of a Jag IRS (if set up correctly) is all about shims. You shim the hub carriers, you shim the bottom arms to hub carriers, you shim the diff carrier etc etc. Its all about shims.
No real big problem just lots of measuring and disassemble and reassemble.
I know lots of people who run 2 Coil overs instead of 4 due to the weight difference but I have only know 2 who have bothered to take of the mounts for the unused ones... so they sit there and look like crap.
As I am sure Ted will tell you its about gettting angles aright with no opposing ones that bind when the suspension moves up and down,
As far as the drive shaft goes. The rear end MUST be centered in the car which means that due to the offset input shaft of the Jag diif the drive shaft will be scewed to the kerb side of the car. Thats a fact of life. DONT worry about it. I have seen VERY short drive shaft in Ts and they all work fine.
Gerry

 

[Youngster]

Gerry, I'm no expert on the Jag <<<please read again! I am doing my home work before the build. It would be great to have you in my back pocket when setting mine up, hint hint. I accually like the look of the 2 coilovers in front of the axles. Kinda cleans the back up so it don't look so busy, JMO. Have you ever seen the axle tubes made out of hex tubing? It twinkles when your going down the road. Kinda cool but I'm wondering if it turns to twisted steel on a hard launch.

Mark, I forgot to mention the part about the rear control arms being parallel with the front u-joint, Thanks for bringing that out.

Last but not least Mike, Please don't spit in the guys face then point at me. LOL Got to go Google eclipes now.

Ron

 

[Ted Brown]

I have seen Jag rear ends mounted a ton of different ways, and most all are not really correct... It is real easy when you just study how they are mounted stock, the whole unit is able to move, no binding of the main unit itself.. the lower control arms (that the coil-overs mount to), ARE the radius rods, the lower stock FLAPPER arms are the lower rubber mounts, the 4 upper rubber mounts allow the whole unit to flex back and forth when getting on or off the go pedal, this is no biggy in a stock Jag, as all is covered/hidden by body, so you can not really see how much the tires tilt in and out when driving over dips, etc. This/any rear IRS is terrible for drag race type traction, GREAT for road driving and corners, but the wheels and tires will move a lot, and be seen from the rear, does not look that good from there... SO, Mount it all in good rubber type mounts and let it move like it should, if you have to have the bling, and they do look great sitting still or at one weight driving down the road at night with the U joints just a glittering away, some even install small spot lights to set them off even more... BUT! if you have a big power plant, I would go with a straight axle rear assembly, much easier to control all around. Just my say about this, as my old plans for mounting the Jag, are wrong, that was many years ago and lots has passed under the bridge since then. Ride safe and create no binding suspensions, of any type..

 

[Gerry]

Gerry, I'm no expert on the Jag <<<please read again! I am doing my home work before the build. It would be great to have you in my back pocket when setting mine up, hint hint. I accually like the look of the 2 coilovers in front of the axles. Kinda cleans the back up so it don't look so busy, JMO. Have you ever seen the axle tubes made out of hex tubing? It twinkles when your going down the road. Kinda cool but I'm wondering if it turns to twisted steel on a hard launch.

Mark, I forgot to mention the part about the rear control arms being parallel with the front u-joint, Thanks for bringing that out.

Last but not least Mike, Please don't spit in the guys face then point at me. LOL Got to go Google eclipes now.

Ron

I have an exploded diagram of a standard Jag IRS if it any use to you. Just let me know and i will post it. By the way i dont know about the USA but in England parts for these are EXPENSIVE. Like $100 for 2 spacers for the axles in the rear hubs. Yep seen hex axles, seen billet axles and bottom arms. Also we have shortened one of these where the axles were just over 8'' long to get it under the back of a 70s Ford saloon.
On the T I set up the camber on the rear wheels to zero at the ride height of the car. This is done by... you guessed it, shims between the output flange of the diff and the axles. In my case I machined a pair of disks and measured and remachined and measured etc etc.


Dont forget that these rear ends need a touch of toe in. Again done by shiming the trunions on the bottom of the diff. shim the front bolt to give toe out or the rear bolt for toe in.
As you probably know my IRS is a one off with different bottom arms, hub carriers and suspension set up. It took us over 5 days work to get it all bushed, shimed and set up. As Ted mentioned we used engineering plastic where ever we could to soften things up and give a nicer ride.
There is a video on UTube somewhere that shows how to renew and set up the hub bearings. Its VERY good might be worth a search
By the way we call the axles DOG BONES cause thats what they look like when they are out of the car!!!!
Gerry

 

[Youngster]

Most all of this coinsides with what I've been able to find so far. I have the u-tube vid copied for reference. Even with your aftermarket parts, the set up must be the same. I have the listings for the plastic replacement parts but since I'm mounting in urathane I'm going to try the needle bearings first. Other projects are keeping me busy right now but I'm hoping to be knee deep in the new car by the first of the year. Hope to have the dog bones, trunions and hub carriers 'detailed' by then. I have about 60% of the car now. Like to have 90% or better before I start.

Thanks for your input.

Ron

 

[Gerry]

Most all of this coinsides with what I've been able to find so far. I have the u-tube vid copied for reference. Even with your aftermarket parts, the set up must be the same. I have the listings for the plastic replacement parts but since I'm mounting in urathane I'm going to try the needle bearings first. Other projects are keeping me busy right now but I'm hoping to be knee deep in the new car by the first of the year. Hope to have the dog bones, trunions and hub carriers 'detailed' by then. I have about 60% of the car now. Like to have 90% or better before I start.

Thanks for your input.

Ron

One thing I forgot to mention thats a very common mistake on this set up.
The tie rods from the front of the diff that run to the chassis. ( you will have to excuse my English terms. I know these things are called something different in the US). A lot of people run then at 45 degrees up and 45 degrees to the side. If you do this, which seems very logical, they WILL bend. You need to run them at about 60 degrees from the diff to the chassis... if you get my drift


Hope the yella arrows show what I mean

Gerry