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torque converters

That is true, just because a few of us haven't had good luck with TCI doesn't mean 10,000 others haven't sworn by them. For me what defines a good company is how they respond when a problem comes up. The best companies go out of their way to make it right and the so so companies are not as willing to accomodate the customer.

Summit has been one of those companies who bends over backwards for me when something happened, and so has Speedway. Usually one call and they are right there to try to resolve it to your complete satisfaction. That is why I always go to those two companies first.

Don
 
That is true, just because a few of us haven't had good luck with TCI doesn't mean 10,000 others haven't sworn by them. For me what defines a good company is how they respond when a problem comes up. The best companies go out of their way to make it right and the so so companies are not as willing to accomodate the customer.

Summit has been one of those companies who bends over backwards for me when something happened, and so has Speedway. Usually one call and they are right there to try to resolve it to your complete satisfaction. That is why I always go to those two companies first.

Don
X2--- and a few other Co,s as well as these.
 
Forgot to mention but TCI replied to my inquiry the other day with a recommendation of a converter that flash stalled around 1,600-1,800 rpm.
 
Had been thinking about the Coan 3000 for $600, but the B&M Holeshot 3000 is $470 and the Holeshot 2400 is $310. Why the difference in price on the B&M???? Anyway, was thinking again about going with the 2400 Holeshot, but think I've about decided on the 3000 Holeshot. I can save $130 and that'll buy either the deep trans pan or most of an electric fan or trans cooler. Course I may wake up tomorrow and change my mind again.

I'm curious what most of you guys have the idle set at on your rides. That is to say, if you have the idle at 1,200, then I can see an issue when popping it into gear. But if it's set at 900 or so, then how bad was the problem, if you were one that started with a lower stall or stock converter? I've watched a couple of vids that Don or Don's kid did. Anyway, just thinking out loud again....
 
Let me just add this into the mix.....the torque of your motor will make a difference in your stall.....going by what someone elses motor does compared to yours is like apples and oranges. All you can hope for is a in-the-ballpark that way. The more toque down low the more 'creep' you'll have.
Converters are very mis-understood and very overlooked piece of equipment. It really does have a hard job to do.....
 
Pulled the trigger. Ordered up the Holeshot 3000.
 
Let me just add this into the mix.....the torque of your motor will make a difference in your stall.....going by what someone elses motor does compared to yours is like apples and oranges. All you can hope for is a in-the-ballpark that way. The more toque down low the more 'creep' you'll have.
SM, we've been saying this for years, but most people just don't want to hear it. A 400 is going to get higher stall speed numbers out of a converter than a 283, but not as much as a 454.

Chris, when you're pricing torque converters and see big differences in price, you're looking at the difference between a manufacturer who is using a good sprag and one who is not. In a street T-Bucket, you can generally get away with a cheaper sprag. Please note I did say "generally". Take your T to the race track and the cheap sprag suddenly became an endangered species. Bolt a set of slicks on it and the cheap sprag is living on borrowed time. So keep that in mind. If you ever intend to go to the racetrack with a set of tires that will let you get hold of the ground, kiss the cheaper torque converters good-bye. If you don't believe me, call Coan Transmissions, ask to speak to Dave or Jason and have them explain it to you. I know people like to conserve funds, but you always need to know what you're buying, because you're going to get what you're paying for. The $7, buy one, get one at 50% off, torque converters are not a good idea. They are cheap converters built for people who likely will never be able to afford a good set of slicks and will never hurt the converters. Buy a cheap converter and remember to never spin the tires through to hook under load. Always step off the gas before the tires try to hook, or you will massacre a cheap sprag.

As for who makes a good converter and who makes a bad one, tell me who makes the converter you pull out of a manufacturer's shipping box and we can talk. There was a time when I wouldn't have given a TCI converter a second thought, I would have bolted it in there and run it. Because their converters were being built in Steve Griner's shop and having grown up with Steve, I know his complete obsession with perfection. Steve did all of our stuff for the A/ED, back in the 70's and early 80's. We had an internal brake T-400 for years before anyone else could figure out how to build one. We n-e-v-e-r hurt one of his converters. He was changing window designs to help us overcome tire shake, long before Marv Ripes ever caught onto the trick. I've no idea where the TCI converters are being built today, so all I can say is they are as good as the TCI warranty policy can possibly make them.
 
I agree. I've been racing Lightning street trucks at the 1/4 mile track for 10 years now and been a member of the Lightning forum. Most of us that bolt slicks on those 4700 lb trucks and go racing have triple clutch billet convertors that usually run a grand give or take. If you want them to live, that is the price of doing business. On the other hand I spent very little on the convertor on the T bucket because of its weight, engine horsepower level and intended use.
 
Mikes right! I've seen folks drive outta the water and hook up dry.....ain't good! I did the same thing with a 396 powered Nova with a powerglide in it. It was tubbed and had a 4 link w/panhard bar. Drove out and you could hear stuff breaking in the background....
I can't drive em, I just build em.....
 

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