trailers

[Lee_in_KC]

Trailer hitches just don't fit the performance image of Buckets in my opinion.

My thinking exactly, George. That's why I don't want any "evidence" when the hitch isn't being used. What do you think about making a new bottom plate for the Jag differential and welding a 1-1/4" receiver to the plate, including safety chain rings? I'm thinking the tongue weight on that little teardrop won't be more than about 100#, and total trailed weight fully loaded no more than 500#.

 

[Northstar T]

For my Fiero trailer I build a flip up door for the license plate. when the trailer is not in use the stinger is removed via the usual pin and clip arrangement and the plate flips down to cover the opening. the T slots are to hold the safety chains. also note the trailer light harness pigtail tucked back in the opening.

Russ

 

[Gerry]

My thinking exactly, George. That's why I don't want any "evidence" when the hitch isn't being used. What do you think about making a new bottom plate for the Jag differential and welding a 1-1/4" receiver to the plate, including safety chain rings? I'm thinking the tongue weight on that little teardrop won't be more than about 100#, and total trailed weight fully loaded no more than 500#.

Thats the way

Just think of a new diff cover that has a removable bottom section. When its in place its just a diff cover. When you want to use the hitch remover the bottom section an bolt the hitch to the carrier plate (it would need to be a one off and flair over the carrier if you see what I mean). If you are really keen you can make a frame that not only bolts to the back of the carrier but loops under the diff and bolts the the front as well.

Simple to say but a BUNCH of work to make it look right

Thought a lot about this for the Fad

Gerry

 

[KAA]

My thinking exactly, George. That's why I don't want any "evidence" when the hitch isn't being used. What do you think about making a new bottom plate for the Jag differential and welding a 1-1/4" receiver to the plate, including safety chain rings? I'm thinking the tongue weight on that little teardrop won't be more than about 100#, and total trailed weight fully loaded no more than 500#.

The one I've seen was a receiver mounted to the rear frame crossmember mounted up and down. Then a steel tube slides up in the receiver and pins in place and the tube drops down as far as needed then turns out at a 90 for the ball to mount. Sorry I don't know how to draw.

 

[Hotrod46]

Here's my trailer and hitch setup.

The trailer is pretty old. It's a fiberglass copy of a Mullins that was made in the 80's. The plugs were taken off of an original Mullins and only about 6 were built before the molds were destroyed in a fire. I know the guy that owns the one that was copied. It has a functional tailgate, like the originals. The spindles are modified AMC Pacer pieces and the tires are 215 75 15's. It pulls easily at interstate speeds. I got it originally to pull behind my 46, but it works fine behind the T.

Since I don't like exposed hitches either, my hitch setup is hidden by the license plate. The plate is mounted on a 2" receiver insert with a short wiring harness and disconnect with a trailer plug for the tag light. I pull the tag mount and insert the hitch. I know that I could be hassled about removing the plate, but so far I've not had any problems. I stow the tag mount in the trailer. I know that 2" is way overkill for this load, but I had an old hitch from a pickup that I robbed the receiver off of. It is welded to a piece of fairly heavy angle iron and simply bolts under the rear cross member with the angle hooked behind the frame. Four 1/2" bolts hold it on and I have actually picked the rear of the bucket up with this setup.

 

[fordsbyjay]

A couple things to hide the hitch is you can put your license plate over it. They also make class 1 hidden hitches in 1 1/4" that would be the right size for small trailers.


http://www.etrailer.com/dept-pg-Ball_Mounts-sf-Vertical_Ball_Mount.aspx

 

[Gerry]

Thats the way

Just think of a new diff cover that has a removable bottom section. When its in place its just a diff cover. When you want to use the hitch remover the bottom section an bolt the hitch to the carrier plate (it would need to be a one off and flair over the carrier if you see what I mean). If you are really keen you can make a frame that not only bolts to the back of the carrier but loops under the diff and bolts the the front as well.

Simple to say but a BUNCH of work to make it look right

Thought a lot about this for the Fad

Gerry

I know its a rough sketch but it may give you an idea. As Above a 2 part diff cover with the bottom bit removable so you can bolt the hitch to the carrier. No trailer no evidence of a hitch as the bottom bit gets put back on to hide the holes.


Gerry

 

[Rick]

I know its a rough sketch but it may give you an idea. As Above a 2 part diff cover with the bottom bit removable so you can bolt the hitch to the carrier. No trailer no evidence of a hitch as the bottom bit gets put back on to hide the holes.
[attachment=4999:trailer hitch.JPG]

Gerry

That shore is a purdy car Gerry.I like the color to.

 

[GAB]

I rather imagine that this is way more complicated than Lee wants but I was going on the perimeters that he has laid out....minimum evidence that a trailer hitch had been present and not much grief removing it. One pin to pull and the hitch unit slides forward in the keystone socket on the bottom of the lower Jag plate. Just the guides for the keystone and a bung and hole for the pin. That is as close as I can get.

Just something to ponder on.

 

[Gerry]

very clever and a great drawing as well
Gerry

 

[Lee_in_KC]

George, you never cease to amaze me! Very clever, however, I don't think it will work on my car as my diff cover will not allow space to pull the pin. Could the pin come up from below?

Guys wanting to see the detail plans for my teardrop luggage trailer, here you go (click on thumbnail). Now understand I haven't built anything from these plans (other than the frame), so I can't vouch for how well thought-out they are. I expect to have to do some on-the-fly re-engineering when I do build it. My plan is to build the carcass out of exterior grade ply with oak cross-members, then skin the whole thing in Masonite hardboard, then cover that in one layer of fiberglass for reinforcement and water-proofing.

I'm actually getting excited about working on it this winter, now that I've resurrected the plans.



By the way, here is where I got my axle from (ordered through the local trailer parts store).

 

[sstock]

I rather imagine that this is way more complicated than Lee wants but I was going on the perimeters that he has laid out....minimum evidence that a trailer hitch had been present and not much grief removing it. One pin to pull and the hitch unit slides forward in the keystone socket on the bottom of the lower Jag plate. Just the guides for the keystone and a bung and hole for the pin. That is as close as I can get.

Just something to ponder on.

Simply brilliant! Big time kudos

 

[GAB]

Lee,

I am doing a lot of guessing as to dimensions that would have to be taken into account if you were building this assembly. The dimensions of the lower plate in the drawing are real world as I took them from the pattern that was used to make yours.

The whole hitch unit could be moved further back if you are making a new lower plate. Again, just guessing but it seems to me that there might be enough space between the differential cover and the tie bar to sneak the pin in and out. As far as that goes, the pin could be inserted from the bottom, it would need to be locked in some how if done that way.

 

[Gerry]

That shore is a purdy car Gerry.I like the color to.

Thanks Rick. Not sure if it will stay yella. original plan was Kandy red.
G

 

[Ted Brown]

Thanks Rick. Not sure if it will stay yella. original plan was Kandy red.
G

Candy Red, that was the color that Danny Woods had on his 15, you don't want to be mistaken for driving his old car do you?? Yeller is now you...

 

[Ted Brown]

As far as trailer hitches go, I myself make the mounts to the frame, and very solid as well, mounting to the bottom of a Jag, or other rear end assembly puts a lot more strain on the mounts that hold the whole assembly, why tax that area any more then it already is? just a thought from one that has built many hitches on many Hot rods...

 

[Rick]

As far as trailer hitches go, I myself make the mounts to the frame, and very solid as well, mounting to the bottom of a Jag, or other rear end assembly puts a lot more strain on the mounts that hold the whole assembly, why tax that area any more then it already is? just a thought from one that has built many hitches on many Hot rods...

You have any plans you can share Ted?

 

[Ted Brown]

Well I try and build them into the frame as I am building the chassis, otherwise just above the rear spring or rear end mount, is where I would add a mount as an after thought, let me see if I have any shots up on myspace that covers this...

 

[blownt]

I built a trailer using a Northern Tools trailer then added a longer tongue to fit an ice chest in front of the trailer box.

I also bought an old vintage Allstate type one wheel trailer off Ebay and want to make a trailer that will bolt to the rear of the bucket at two points. Makes it REAL easy to back up in a bucket. Thinking about making an old west type wooden coffin (sorta long hexagon shape) with a hinged lid to fit on the old wheel trailer suspension and 1 1/2" square tubing frame.

 

[fordsbyjay]

I think a T-Tub body or a C-Cab body would make a cool trailer but they both are not cheap.