Trans/clutch removal

[cootertwo]

Hi all, well the T-Bucket I recently bought, apparently has a bad clutch. Fingers on pressure plate show severe wear, and lot's of sparkle city inside the bell housing. My question is, how do I go about removing the trans (5 speed man). The trans rear mount bracket on my kit frame, is welded in and doesn't appear to leave enough room to slide the trans out of the bell housing, even if I remove the trans rear rubber mount. Also consider I'm 76 years old!
HELP!

 

[Spanky]

Wish I had better news. You'll have to remove the engine, or al least unbolt the motor mounts and use a hoist to lift it up some. While you're at it, do yourself a favor and make the trans cross member removeable. One of my buddies that helped me build my bucket insisted I do that with mine, Glad he did.

 

[cootertwo]

Well thanks Spanky, but that is a real bummer for sure. I think pulling the engine and trans out the front would be easier than lifting the body. I think fewer wires to disconnect. I have an engine hoist, just need some "get up and go" meds! ha ha ha 76 and severe arthritis is a beech! Looked at the situation with a scope, and it apperas the throw out bearing has froze up, and has been wearing the fingers of the pressure plate, a lot! I'm old school, and always believe there has to be some clearance between the throw out bearing, and the pressure plate fingers, when not depressed. This one must have been setup with NO clearance. I can adjust it down to where I can shift into gears OK, but after a 5 minute ride, it has worn enough to start dragging again. Sparkle city inside the bell housing. Sad I'll get-r-done, just baby steps.

 

[RodStRace]

Jack up and support car. Make sure engine hoist can fit between stands.
Drain coolant and oil.
Remove headers. Disconnect radiator hoses, fan wiring and remove radiator. Disconnect throttle linkage, fuel line and electrical connections from engine.
Remove any other items that would limit engine removal and access.
Support front of transmission. Connect engine hoist to support engine. Cover frame on sides and front to protect finish.
Remove starter. Remove bell housing to engine bolts. Remove engine mounts. Move engine forward and up to allow access to clutch.
Some folks can and will swap clutches while the engine is hanging in the air. Considering your limitations, I'd strongly suggest having a way to set the engine down on the floor. This can be some 2X4s and shop towels up to a cradle built for the job.
Doing it this way leaves the trans, bell housing and hyd line in the car.

I went back thru your posts hoping for pics. I remember that you have an external hyd clutch.

C

Post in thread 'New “Old Fart”'

Dec 5, 2025

Thanks for the reply. Yup, it's an outside the bell housing setup. I tried to bleed it some by gravity. Problem now, is I cannot see how far the clutch lever is moving at the bell housing. "FEELS" like it should be disengaging, but cannot shift into anything without grinding. I'll get back on it when I feel better. "Gettin old ain't for sissy's"

• cootertwo

• 

I would make darn sure that you have all the info for this (size, throw, pressure) and make very sure the new clutch will play nice BEFORE buying parts and assembling. It sucks to have to do this so soon after purchase. It would really suck to have to do it twice!
I wonder if this has been an issue it's whole life or it was just worn out and the adjustments finished the job. .

 

[RodStRace]

Here's a pic you posted. Be glad you have so much access to the bell housing!
Depending on what you have to connect the engine to the hoist, you will want to remove the air cleaner. You may also want to remove the dist. cap and wires and any other parts that may get damaged. If you use a carb baseplate for lifting, the carb has to go.





When installing, one of the angle adjustable lifting deals will aid in aligning the input shaft and the engine.

 

[cootertwo]

Thanks Guy's. What a helpful place. Yup, I have one of those adjustable lifting deals. Biggest job now, is to move some of my "6" motorcycles out of the carport/barn, so I can access the concrete floor, etc. etc. Just a bummer, as I bought this toy to have fun with, NOT work on. Also, after I get it apart, what's the opinion on pressure plates? I've never liked the diaphragm type, and would rather have the old spring, and finger type. I know they are still available. Just kickin rocks..... Also not real fond of the hydraulic setup, but what-cha-gonna do? Will definitely do a whole lot of checking and measuring before it goes back together. AFTER I get it apart! Ha Merry Christmas Guy's and thanks for the help

 

[RodStRace]

If at all possible. measure the throw with it together before disassembly! Try to ID the slave to compare to standard specs. If it's not moving enough, that's a symptom that may need solving!
Try to ID the clutch fork, too. Everyone tended to have different part numbers and ratios over the years. Ford in particular liked changing things just to do it. You can be sure the F-250 and the Mustang had different parts.
EXAMPLE

T5 from 94-95 5.0V8 with external slave hydraulic clutch...

I have seen several hydraulic clutch kits for the foxbody 5.0 with CNC slave but not come across one for the SN95. The foxbody kit will not work since the clutch fork is at a different angle. Has anyone converted a 94-95 5.0 V8 or a 3.8 V6 with T5 to an external slave hydraulic clutch ? What...

www.fordmuscleforums.com

As for what type, I try to defer to the local shop who I get the parts from. I realize that's not possible everywhere, and online or mail order can often save money.
If you were buying a 1982 Mustang 5.0 clutch, they have all the info and can say exactly what your options are. However in a case like this (1923 car, 19XX engine, 19XX transmission, aftermarket [?] hydraulic throwout), I want and need the before and after sales service. This is NOT a case where your car that weighs under 2200 pounds and is street driven needs the same disc and pressure plate as a street/strip fox body with nitrous or the plumber's van.

 

[Rich B]

T-buckets have pretty much everything out in the open with good access. Might seem like a big job; but if you take it in steps; it should go smooth. After the car wouldn't go backwards on it's maiden voyage; me & my kid had the engine out, bad trans switched out, and reinstalled and running in a long afternoon the next day. Made a spreader bar out of an old '40 axle to keep the chains off the valve covers.