Tri-power

[rubicon]

Any of you guys ever hear of Automotion Rochester service? www.hotrodcarbs.com They make a triple deuce set up called the "WILD THING" Its got my heart a pounding and drool all over my key board. I'm waiting for the price list with options. I should be ordering my stuff for my build before the snow flies here in Wisconsin.

 

[Screaming Metal]

I've have used many of their kits....good co. They are a Co. that decided to specialize, and are good at it....

 

[Oldbuilder]

Glad I found this post,,, I just bought a three deuce setup off CL and found the carb butterflies are froze up. I know Here's your sign ha ha ha ,,, I'm sure they can be rebuilt but man I didn't want to have to deal with that. May have to anyways,,, gonna look at the link above an see what they have going on. More later, GM

 

[Hotrod46]

Oldbuilder

The Rochester 2G's are really simple carbs. Rebuilding them is not a problem. Getting good cores is the real issue. Fifteen years or so ago when I built my first tri-power, the owner of Hot Rod Carbs in Missouri told me he bought cores by the 55 gallon drum full. Only about 1/4 of them were usable according to him.

The bases for the end carbs are available from Speedway. Don't know who makes them though. May be Vintage Speed pieces, that's what they look like. Speedway has a complete conversion kit to build a 3x2 from regular carbs. Comes with jets too. Other parts are available from NAPA.

The end carbs really don't have anything in them but a float, needle and seat and an accelerator pump. As long as the main circuits are clean, you shouldn't have a problem with rebuilding them. The bases on the end carbs have special thick butterflies that seal when closed and don't stick. They don't have any idle circuits at all.

The center carb is the important one. It needs to be the absolute best core you can get, since that is what you run on 99.9% of the time. Unless you can get cores really cheap, pull the top and look in the float bowl. If it's not fairly clean, walk away from it. If the seller doesn't want you to look inside, pass or get it cheap. I used to pick up all the 2G's I could get my hands on. Most were just for parts as the bodies were corroded or damaged in some way.

I've been running that first 3x2 setup on a 383 since around '97 and the one on my T for about 6 years. No issues at all. Great street setup!! Use a regulator to get the fuel pressure down to 4-5 pounds and the 2G's will be happier.

Good luck!

Mike

 

[Oldbuilder]

Mike, Thanks for jumping in on these. I took the front carb down last night and it didn't look too bad. The base plate is toast IMHO but the body was okay. I'd like to figure out how to post pix again and show some of what I found on here. I'm not totally bummed but a little disappointed. I was expecting them to almost be ready. Live & learn right... was told they were running on another 350,,, couldn't have been,,, the throttle arm on one carb was hitting the intake. I'll get it all figured out and working with help from the website. I'm Thankful for this site,,,, how bout ya'll

 

[Hotrod46]

I wouldn't worry too much about the condition of the end carb bases. If they're not real tri-power bases, trash 'em and get new ones from Speedway. Trying to use standard bases on the end carbs will cause headaches. True tri-power bases will have very thick butterflies. Roughly twice as thick or more than regular butterflies. They also have clock-type spring to keep them closed. They also are not drilled for idle circuits. I think a lot of the bad rap that 3x2's have got over the years is due to junk yard setups with 3 standard carbs and poor linkages. I have looked at some really cobbled together tri-powers over the years at car shows.

I'm no expert, but will help if I can.

Mike

 

[Mike]

The tutorial @fordsbyjay put up is still a winner, if you are wanting to post some images.

 

[Oldbuilder]

Mike, Thanks for that link to the instructions to link photos. I've done it before on another site but so long ago I can't remember. I'll get this done soon as possible. Dealing with a family tragedy this week, that's all I can say at the moment.

HR46,,, I'll see if I can find the bases you mention on SW's website,,,, didn't think about them,,,, yet

 

[Screaming Metal]

I wouldn't worry too much about the condition of the end carb bases. If they're not real tri-power bases, trash 'em and get new ones from Speedway. Trying to use standard bases on the end carbs will cause headaches. True tri-power bases will have very thick butterflies. Roughly twice as thick or more than regular butterflies. They also have clock-type spring to keep them closed. They also are not drilled for idle circuits. I think a lot of the bad rap that 3x2's have got over the years is due to junk yard setups with 3 standard carbs and poor linkages. I have looked at some really cobbled together tri-powers over the years at car shows.

I'm no expert, but will help if I can.

Mike

You are totally right....alot of folks just used to 3 2g's with the idles still adjusted, most of them ran like Hell....all they had to really do to have a sweet running setup was to shut down the idle circuits and run a good linkage.
The originals didn't have idles on the ends because they (the end carbs) were only used for 1/2 throttle on up, the motor idled off the center carb....
Now the old vacuum actuated tri powers were rigged the same way, just the end carbs tilting when the vacuum demanded it, ie, the 389 GTO's and the 383/440 Mopar Six-Packs, Chevy's tri-powers, etc....
To me, they worked so much better with a good linkage on them without all that vacuum garbage,

 

[Oldbuilder]

So would the standard bases work okay if I shut out the idle circuit and all unnecessary item like choke.
Where would I get a good linkage. I looked at the setup on SW and it's a bit pricy at the moment. Looked great though.
There was another setup someplace I looked at and it too was really nice. but about 575 buckeroo's if I remember right.
Dealing with a family loss at the moment, hopefully this weekend I'll be able to posting pix. Think I figured it out and found my notes for log in to photo bucket. You all stay safe and have a great Thanksgiving if I don't get before then.

 

[Hotrod46]

First and most important. I'm sorry to hear of your loss.

I seem to remember that Automotion sold a secondary conversion kit for standard bases. It came with new shafts, the thick butterflies and springs(I think). I may be wrong about the vendor, but someone sold them.

Yes the idle circuits can be closed. I've seen them drilled and plugged with screws too.

The main problem with standard bases is that they were never intended to be completely closed. The idle screw was there to keep them open just a hair and they can stick if forced to close all the way. Might not, but the potential is there.

They are not fitted to be an airtight seal either and may be a source of a vacuum leak. This makes getting the jetting right just about impossible.

Rochester used the thick blades to fix both issues. I had a genuine set of tri-power carbs at one time and can confirm that they were definitely made this way. Sure wish I still had them. They have to be fitted tight enough that no light can be seen around them. The originals and aftermarket pieces I have(had) are made this tight.

I read somewhere (maybe on the HAMB) about using epoxy to create combination blade stop and air dam in the bore. Just a thin ridge for the butterfly to butt against. I would be nervous about the epoxy coming loose and going through the engine.

Speedway (and others) used to sell a linkage kit that wasn't too pricey. It came with a new long shaft for the center carb and the rods and ends to operate everything else. Just be sure to put a spring dedicated to closing the end carbs. Having them stick open will make your day interesting to say the least. Good linkage will have some method of having the progressive part of the linkage push the secondaries closed as well as open them.

Mike

 

[Oldbuilder]

Hey Mike, thank you for the condolences,,, much appreciated,,,,, I looked at automotion' website and they do sell a complete kit at 595. Great looking kit,,, love the linkage setup,,, looks beefy. SW also sells a setup for about 370 with everything included to make the swap using junk yard carbs. I have 5 carbs to use for building and felt going with after market bases was the best choice. I've even thought about getting a new primary carb so I would have 6 carbs and could build two systems. My buddy wants to go Tri-Power too. He's the one who convinced me to buy the setup in the first place ha ha ha. I'm still looking on the web to see if someone sells ready made bases for the secondary's ready to go. Being a machinist I may attempt to make the linkage myself. That would start a whole new thread LOL. I really appreciate everyone's input and tips,,, it's hard to get straight up non-bias ideas sometimes. Reason why I really enjoy this site,,,, later ya'll