Walker Radiator cooling advice needed.

[Ceec]

Now that my car is running, I've had enough time to see what problem might pop up. A major one is cooling. I have a Walker Cobra radiator and a Flex-O-Lite S blade fan (1200 cfm I think). The fan is wired direct to a switch on the console, I've installed a 180 degree thermostat. I would like to install a fairly large expansion tank. Where can I get one and what is the correct routing of the hoses? The typical ones in the mail order catalogs look a bit small.

Cecil

 

[Rick]

Now that my car is running, I've had enough time to see what problem might pop up. A major one is cooling. I have a Walker Cobra radiator and a Flex-O-Lite S blade fan (1200 cfm I think). The fan is wired direct to a switch on the console, I've installed a 180 degree thermostat. I would like to install a fairly large expansion tank. Where can I get one and what is the correct routing of the hoses? The typical ones in the mail order catalogs look a bit small.

Cecil

Just my opinion why does your car over heat?Do you have all the air evacuated from the block?If you have air pockets you WILL overheat.Now for an expansion tank i use a beer can but i never get anything in it its just a billy bob piece.Good luck with the overheating but your car shouldnt over heat though.

 

[putz]

I agree with Rick you don't hear to much about buckets overheating. I think because the motor is never working hard enough to get hot pulling these light cars.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Hey dude...Rick amd Putz are right....what cha runnin??????? With a decent radiator, a 180 degree thermo , and a good electric fan.............If you got water, the pumps turning, and the fans running....you should run about 185 to 195.
You should not have any cooling issues unless.........
1.you've got a blown head gasket
2.your running a stout engine and your timing is way to hell off
3.you've got a strong motor with a blower and your running too lean
4.you've got a major cooling system blockage or a stuck thermostat
5.running a big vaccuum leak at high rpm's
6.your waterpump impellar has come loose from the shaft and is not pumping
7.have an air pocket in your block allowing a hotspot to form inside the cooling jacket
7.All the planets are in alignment and you have a act of god going on

Tell us what your running and we might be able to narrow these down a little.................................

 

[Ceec]

The engine is a BBC 468 with a Comp 270 cam, Pete Jackson gear drive, Wieand dual tunnel ram with 2 450 Holley's, Holley electric fuul pump, deep sump pan (11 quart I think), and an Oberg oil filter. Block, heads, crank and rods are the ones that came in it from Chivlay. Read is a Walker cobra for a 25 and up T Bucket and Flex-O-Light S blade fan. Sanderson ceramic headers with typical glass packs. I run 50/50 anti-freeze. I don't think the engine has bubbles.

Cecil

 

[putz]

First is radiator lower than motor this is easy to get air pockets in them when filling try and open thermostat manually or pull thermostat out and make sure block is full by pouring coolant. Some new cars have built in bleeders at a high point to make sure you get it bled. Here is the overflow tank I have.Billet Specialties - Overflow Tanks - Smooth

 

[Duke]

Sometimes I will drill a very small hole in the thermostat - 1/16th or so. This helps get the air out. Is Your Radiator a Walker Cobra or a Walker Z-Cobra. The Standard Walker Cobra is for Small Block engines. How many inches across is your fan and if it is only 1200 cfm fan it is to small, I would bet it is more like 2200 Cfm.

Which radiator do I need

 

[Brucer]

1200 cfm isnt enough, you need more fan.. probably double that. spal makes a top notch fan, theres also a brand that sprint cup cars use, cant remember the name of it though..

 

[Screaming Metal]

Crank it up with the radiator cap off......you shouldn't have any foam......let it run for a while till the thermo opens......you'll see the coolant moving pretty good. rev the engine on and off, your waiting for the coolant to drop......as it does....add some warm coolant.....NOT cold! If you got a drain plug on the bottom of your block.....you can accomplish the same thing........
Next.....set your timing......make sure your not too low..............
If you got one...... get a 160 thermo and put that in.
Now....be sure your radiator is for a BB..........
Last but not least........add some more fan....your marginal on cooling capability.

With all that .....you should run anout 170 with a 160 thermo. Hope this helps................

 

[RPM]

When does it over heat? Driving down the road at speed or setting idling? What temps are you calling overheating? 220-230 is OK hot but not over heating.

 

[Ted Brown]

I would never want to be running 220, that's too hot for ME..hehe The biggest problem I have found in other people's cooling systems is no spring in the bottom hose when using a fitted hose. The water pump will suck that hose completely flat at around 30 to 45 MPH and above... fine at real low speeds but over heating at road speeds.. check to see if you can pinch that lower hose closed with your fingers.... too small a fan is next in line... or using too large of a water pump pulley, slows down the flow, needs to be a bit faster... Good Luck, Summer heat is almost here...

 

[Screaming Metal]

Ron and Ted both have good points........220 is too high for me....but I'm old school........I like my engines cool.......later engines are setup to run much hotter as Ron is saying.
I have seen a slow waterpump cause overheating......but before we can make a determination.....we need to know when its overheating, any noises and leaks......what rpm and what road speed.......if its idling, etc.
Also....be sure your fan is turning the right direction and on the correct side of the radiator for your specific setup.....all this does make a difference.
I found a field rat once stuck up inside the waterpump housing......don't take anything for granted when it comes to engine heat......it will definitely do harm if it gets too hot!

 

[donsrods]

I've started running aluminum radiators and really like them. My T runs at 150-160 and even at a light rarely comes up to 180, so my fan doesn't even kick on. My Kid has a Walker radiator in his bucket because he didn't want the look of aluminum up front (?), and he has to run his fan constantly, and then it stays at 190. His motor is a lot more radical than mine, but it is still a small block Ford and should run cooler than that.

I'm also a big fan (no pun) of SPAL fans, in conjunction with a good shroud. I had a Jeep truck with a small block Ford that ran hot at lights, then I switched to a SPAL and the problem went away.

We've now bought 4 radiators from PRC and each one has really been a nice piece.

Don

 

[blownt]

Yo Ceeeeeeeeecccccc WHAAZZZZUUUUUPPPPPPPPPP????

In your fist post you said you had a cooling problem but never said if it was overheating? What is it running at? I have a Walker Cobra Z and with the blower it never gets past 205. I do not run a themostat. I use the middle size restrictor (looks like a big thin washer). I run straight deminerialized water and a waterpump lubricant/antirust additive. I do not think you need "a fairly large expansion tank" other than just a "burp" tank to catch the overflow.

 

[GT63]

Most new engines run at 240, My 2008 Silverado 5.3L runs at 240 all the time. I have a Walker Cobra radiator in my T and with the blower it runs between 160-180 and never goes higher than 205210.

 

[Screaming Metal]

Yo Ceeeeeeeeecccccc WHAAZZZZUUUUUPPPPPPPPPP????

In your fist post you said you had a cooling problem but never said if it was overheating? What is it running at? I have a Walker Cobra Z and with the blower it never gets past 205. I do not run a themostat. I use the middle size restrictor (looks like a big thin washer). I run straight deminerialized water and a waterpump lubricant/antirust additive. I do not think you need "a fairly large expansion tank" other than just a "burp" tank to catch the overflow.

Yea BlownT, If I build a real monster for the street.....I'll get my shears and take a thermostat, cut out the center section, and just put the shell back in....that way,,,,,,you've got some restriction on your pump and it'll do as it should........Another good point was brought up too! Shrouds!!!!!
I can't count the cars....both street and race that have had cooling issues, and though the fan was fairly close to the radiator.....folks thought that that would work. Wrong......air is gonna take the path of least resistance......... Even if a fan is within a few inches....if you ain't got a shroud......it'll pull air across the back surface if the radiator and not thru it............Electrics need a shroud just like regular fans if they're not right on top of it..........I custom make 'em outta that shiney alum. sheet, stuff....they look soooo prutty then................:lol::lol:

 

[Ted Brown]

Late model engines run hot just for the smog people... You get block pressure from the smaller top hose.. try a good back flush now and then to get rid of junk clogging the tubes, just use a rag and a garden hose into the bottom hose, disconnected from the water pump, aim the the top hose into a white bucket so you can see what all comes out...

 

[Ceec]

Hello BT, Long time-no see. The hoses on the car are genuine Cool-Flex, corregated SS. The temp runs aroung 180 mosty of the time and gets up to 215 after long idleing (commuter traffic) or at a stop light. The rad is mounted quite low in the frame, the lower hose is lower that the engine and the thermostate housing is the higher that the upper tank. If 215 or 220 os normal, maybe I don't have a problem. Thank to all for the advice.

BT, we gotta cruise togather sometime. Green cars rule!! LOL

Cecil

 

[Screaming Metal]

Hello BT, Long time-no see. The hoses on the car are genuine Cool-Flex, corregated SS. The temp runs aroung 180 mosty of the time and gets up to 215 after long idleing (commuter traffic) or at a stop light. The rad is mounted quite low in the frame, the lower hose is lower that the engine and the thermostate housing is the higher that the upper tank. If 215 or 220 os normal, maybe I don't have a problem. Thank to all for the advice.

BT, we gotta cruise togather sometime. Green cars rule!! LOL

Cecil

Ceec, if you got a 180 in there and its running 180 most of the tome and you get up to 220 after a long idle session.......thats warm but not overheating. When I'm in a car I built and I'm idling in traffic and the temp hits 200......my eyebrow pops up and is glued to the temp gauge.....:surprised:.... 210 is the magic number for me to park the ride infront of my toolbox and start turning wrenches...............

 

[LKE]

and the thermostate housing is the higher that the upper tank.

I think that is your problem. If your stat housing is higher than the upper tank, and the filler neck is on that tank, you can't get the system totally full. And so you have a big air pocket. On my car, it is this way. But just a little bit. I jack the front of the car up to get the filler higher than the stat housing, then fill the system up.