What type of ford rear end is this?

[T-Bucket Bob]

Heys Guys,

What type of ford rear is this?

Are they hard to take apart and put back together? I like to do that for priming and painting?

Thanks, T-Bucket Bob

 

[fluidfloyd]

Heys Guys,

What type of ford rear is this?
View attachment 10489 View attachment 10490
Are they hard to take apart and put back together? I like to do that for priming and painting?

Thanks, T-Bucket Bob

Bob,

That appears to be the 9" differential. At first glance the 9" and the 8" look a lot a like. The sure fire way to tell is try to put a deep 9/16 socket on the lower case stud/nuts. The 9" WILL NOT allow that and you will need to use a wrench. The 8" studs/nuts can all be accessed with a deep socket. Hope this helps you.

George

 

[choppedtop]

"Looks like a 9" to me also. Most 8" have a hood or visor over the pinion flange. At least all 3 of mine do.
Lee

 

[BOB S]

9" housing style familiar to most, note the large center protrusion or simply the "hump" in the middle. Housing also has the two dimples, but note lack of fill plug.This housing is out of an early Bronco.
carrier for the 8" found in 67 and up. Note the fill plug in the case, as well as the vertical reinforcement ribs. If you must build an 8" for any amount of abuse, get this case. It can be found in a variety of models up to the late 70's Mustang II's
C7AW-E The C7AW-E case seems to have been in use for quite sometime, have found them with date codes up to 1979.Other standard cases encountered: C1AW-4025-C,C4AW-4025-A

 

[BOB S]

If you take it apart and there are some things you need to do first
1. Check your back lash with a dial indicator
2. Mark your left and right do not mix them up
3 .If you do not get the tooth pattern back exactly where it was they might howl

 

[choppedtop]

Going through a 8" rebuild right now myself. One of my sons, decided to sand blast the 3rd member of his rear end. Anyway, he basically got sand in everything. Now, he is a surgeon, and I thought he would have known better. Unfortunately, I was at a car show when he came over to do this. When do you ever stop raising your kids? Oh well, another project for tomorrow.
Lee

 

[railroad]

Heys Guys,

What type of ford rear is this?
View attachment 10489 View attachment 10490
Are they hard to take apart and put back together? I like to do that for priming and painting?

Thanks, T-Bucket Bob

Bob, I think what you are asking is how to break down the main components for cleaning and painting.
You will not need to disassemble the gear set for painting. The chunk will set out complete. I would use a 5 gal pail with some boards to catch the lip of the chunk, 3rd member. If you need to protect the gears and insides, you can tape a plastic bag around the gear side.
To remove the chunk, pull the wheels and brake drums. In the axle flange there will be a hole. Use this hole to access the 4 nuts that hold the brake backing plate on the axle. With the nuts removed, put the brake drum back on the axle studs in reverse position. Put 2 or 3 lug nuts on the lug bolts, catching about half the threads. Using the brake drum as a slide hammer, jerk the drum toward you while facing the end of the axle. This should unseat the axle from the housing. Support the axle as you withdraw it, to avoid scuffing the bearings and seal. Same procedure for the other side.
Now for the chunk, 3rd member, carrier. Remove the perimeter nuts and bump the driveshaft coupling with a dead blow hammer, side to side. You will see the lube start draining, so have a catch pan under the axle. If you have to resort to prying the chunk out, put the bar higher than the lube level. This avoids marring the sealing surface where it might leak. The chunk is heavy, so be prepared for a load.
If the carrier casting does not have a filler hole, now is the time to drill and tap for it. Most castings have a lug area cast for this provision.