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Which EFI and why

PotvinGuy

Well-Known Member
Staff member
There are now a number of aftermarket EFI systems. They all claim to be easy to tune, self tuning, etc. But that's not what I hear from rodders. What EFI are you running? Is it easy to tune? What about it is good or bad? What features would you like to see? What would you recommend to a rodder who is taking the plunge?
 
I have been wondering the same thing myself. The EZ-EFI is supposed to work well but I don't know anyone that has used one. Holley has their commander (??) setups and the 1 person I have seen use it has really liked his. The Holley unit looks a bit more like a carb because the injectors are above the throttle body out of site if that matters. I will definitely be watching this post.

One thing I would stay away from is a mega squirt unless you want a full time system. Like all do it yourself things they can be made to work great but they take a lot of time tinkering and tweaking. Not ideal for most people.
 
I meant to say

One thing I would stay away from is a mega squirt unless you want a full time project. Like all do it yourself things they can be made to work great but they take a lot of time tinkering and tweaking. Not ideal for most people.
 
Street Rodder did an install of a FAST system in the Feb. 2011 issue that looked easy. Hard part will be hiding the O2 sensor wire on headers.
 
There are now a number of aftermarket EFI systems. They all claim to be easy to tune, self tuning, etc. But that's not what I hear from rodders. What EFI are you running? Is it easy to tune? What about it is good or bad? What features would you like to see? What would you recommend to a rodder who is taking the plunge?

Depending on your budget you could call the guys at Kinsler. Ask for Greg Murchinson. Not cheap but its pretty, plus they can write the mapping for you and your car. Tell them what you want it to do, the specs of your ride and there you go your very own map.
dec5085.jpg



Gerry
 
FYI, here's where I am coming from: I run a Haltech F10X. Haltech is in Australia, their tech support here is nonexistent and they have a very bad attitude. They sell hardware, not solutions, at least not in the USA. My unit has one bad injector driver and Haltech's minimum repair charge is $145, for a part that costs $5. So I am looking for another ECU with good tech support, and is made in America.
 
I have been wondering the same thing myself. The EZ-EFI is supposed to work well but I don't know anyone that has used one. Holley has their commander (??) setups and the 1 person I have seen use it has really liked his. The Holley unit looks a bit more like a carb because the injectors are above the throttle body out of site if that matters. I will definitely be watching this post.

One thing I would stay away from is a mega squirt unless you want a full time system. Like all do it yourself things they can be made to work great but they take a lot of time tinkering and tweaking. Not ideal for most people.

The Holly Commander isn't self learning. that's what I use on the Northstar T, but only because it's one of the few units available that will run the Northstars odd systems (and only with firmware changes by CHRfab). I understand that Holly is coming out with (may be out by now actually) a "self learning" ECM however.
There may also be some clarification required in the term "self learning" that the various manufactures flaunt. what they don't tell you is that you still need to tell the computer what A?F ratio you want the ECM to provide at various loads and rpms. the "map" that you record this information on is much less involved that the traditional "base map" creation, but you can still get it wrong and blow up an engine with the new system also. just plugging in 14.7:1 in every cell ain't gona do the trick. a basic understanding of your engines fuel requirements will still be required.
If I had the choice I'd use almost any OEM computer over any aftermarket unit. the OEM units are a Wii compared to Nintendo 64 in terms of sofistication IMHO. but the aftermarket IS slowly moving forward.

.02
Russ
 
There are now a number of aftermarket EFI systems. They all claim to be easy to tune, self tuning, etc. But that's not what I hear from rodders. What EFI are you running? Is it easy to tune? What about it is good or bad? What features would you like to see? What would you recommend to a rodder who is taking the plunge?


Well as you know I running Accel DFI GEN VII.

A lot depends on how much control you want to have. FAST, Holley, and Accel, and a few others have self learning ECUs. The most efficient EFI is the system with the injectors in the runners. Those EFI units that replace carbs are ok, but not nearly aas efficient. Bascially you gain the control of the computer to manage AF/R. These and the sequential units are great for stock and mildly built engines, but not good blown or nitros engines. For a blown or nitros engine, you need to use an ECU you can program with a laptop in order to get the right AF\R , timing retard under boost, injector timing, VE, etc. FAST, BDS , HILLBORN, KINSER, all have EFI units for blown motors. You can choose from 8 injectors to 16 injectors. Most Blown motors are batch fired while non-blown motors are sequential fired. Switching to EFI is NOT cheap.

I've been looking for a blower manifold that will let me put injectors in the runners and injectors above the blower so I can switch to sequential. The injectors above the blower are for cooling the rotors. I'll probably have to have a manifold made from a tunnel ram.

Wish you were still in North Texas, we could have a long conversation with everything I've learned from my switch.

If had to do all over again, I'd use FAST or BigStuff3

http://www.force-efi.com/bug16.htm

http://blowerdriveservice.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=597&cPath=50

http://www.hilborninjection.com/category.asp?Id=175

http://kinsler.com/page--Super-Charged--21.html
 
I am using the Redline EFI out of California. the support is fantastic Bud is generous with his time on the phone to help and will help you even by remote connect to your laptop to assist. I am very new to the EFI world and have made a few mistakes that he has been good enough to correct on the house.
It is a part of the Weber carb company but they seem totally separate from them. He is very knowledgeable. I would use this system again.
I am using it in a 383 sbc with a 6-71 blower from Dyer. I would like to also run the injectors in the manifold but right now I use the BDS plate between the blower and the hat.
I do have a question, where do you put your intake air sensor in your systems?
 
Probably the bottom of the heap as far as tech advanced, but I am running one of the original Holley Projections on a 351 in a 66 Mustang 2+2. I had it tuned on a dyno with a tailpipe sniffer. It has potentiometers to adj the different temp and rpm settings. It has a choke and accel pump adjustment also on the ecu. It is a 2 barrel throttle body and flows 670 cfm. No O2 sensors. Sorta like a carb, once you tune it, it runs where you set it. It requires a return fuel line, with low pressure restrictions. It is basic, but It is simple, cranks and runs like any fuel injected engine out there. Holley does say it is limited to about 270hp, which is why there is a nitrous plate under the throttle body on mine.
 
I am using the Redline EFI out of California. the support is fantastic Bud is generous with his time on the phone to help and will help you even by remote connect to your laptop to assist. I am very new to the EFI world and have made a few mistakes that he has been good enough to correct on the house.
It is a part of the Weber carb company but they seem totally separate from them. He is very knowledgeable. I would use this system again.
I am using it in a 383 sbc with a 6-71 blower from Dyer. I would like to also run the injectors in the manifold but right now I use the BDS plate between the blower and the hat.
I do have a question, where do you put your intake air sensor in your systems?


My intake air temperature sensor is in the plate with the injectors. During all of my research, there seems to be some disagreement about whether it should go above or below the blower.

I've also done an extensive search for a blower manifold that will allow the injectors to be placed in the runners. There are two options have a sheetmetal intake made for about $3500 or find a TR1 tunnel ram and mount a blower plate to the top of it.
 
I am using the Redline EFI out of California. the support is fantastic Bud is generous with his time on the phone to help and will help you even by remote connect to your laptop to assist. I am very new to the EFI world and have made a few mistakes that he has been good enough to correct on the house. It is a part of the Weber carb company but they seem totally separate from them. He is very knowledgeable. I would use this system again. I am using it in a 383 sbc with a 6-71 blower from Dyer. I would like to also run the injectors in the manifold but right now I use the BDS plate between the blower and the hat. I do have a question, where do you put your intake air sensor in your systems?

Good folk, I've dealt with their stuff, and are extremely knowledgable. Hahaha.....their ears was probably burning a couple of weeks back when we'd start a motor, after it'd fire, it'd hit the rev limiter and start missing. And who says computers never screw up! Hahaha...... ran fine every since.......go figure! Wasn't their fault....some weird glitch.....
 
The MegaSquirt is a tinkerer's delight! Got to mess with it all the time till you get it where you want. One thing nice about it, its easily worked on and is completely adjustable, as long as you don't have to jack around with the computer boards. They're pretty dependable. But you gotta work at it.
The Accel is a good unit, I like it. Not super complicated.
The Holley one is pretty decent......I like the looks of the projection.

Main thing is to have a co stand behind you when the send you info to set it up, like talking you thru the mapping and settings......

Its the future......if you want to have alot of horses, a tractable motor, and still get good gas milage......EFI is the way to go! You don't have to worry about washing your rings out, and alot of other carb problems. A good setup EFI motor will go 250K with no problem, where a carbed motor will need freshened up at about 150k.......
 
Good folk, I've dealt with their stuff, and are extremely knowledgable. Hahaha.....their ears was probably burning a couple of weeks back when we'd start a motor, after it'd fire, it'd hit the rev limiter and start missing. And who says computers never screw up! Hahaha...... ran fine every since.......go figure! Wasn't their fault....some weird glitch.....

Oh, I forgot to add......the likage fell off the Throttle Body allowing the rear 2 barrels to flop open.......vibration......
 

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