project suspension

[Pushrod]

 

[Pushrod]

I'm looking at this project, could you guys give me some pros and cons about it's current set up? Any and all info is appreciated.

 

[PotvinGuy]

Skinny tires and wire wheels won't handle much braking. I had them and snapping wires was an ongoing problem.

 

[Pushrod]

Does the suspension appear to be an older style?

 

[old round fart]

There are a lot of tie rods in front of axle. If you modify the arms to change the Ackerman they can be ok. I personally don’t want mine in front. That example is not corrected. What does the rest look like?

 

[Pushrod]

The rear has no shocks or coilovers, I'll need to address that. Could you tell me what needs to be corrected on the front, perhaps through a photo or diagram? That would help me understand better. Thanks

 

[PotvinGuy]

Needs shocks and Panhard rod for sure, which will take some welding and parts. But the whole thing looks rusty and used. Are the frame and rear end as bad? Might check Speedway for all new versus the money and time to rescue this.

 

[old round fart]

Try this: Ackermann steering geometry - Wikipedia

 

[Pushrod]

The car is from N Carolina, just light surface rust, no rot. So basically, the tie rod should be behind the spindles. Thanks for the advice.

 

[409T]

So basically, the tie rod should be behind the spindles.

It can be in front also, but it can be tricky to get the steering arms in position for correct Ackerman without having them hit the tires or rims.

 

[Pushrod]

Could that be why it was built with wire front wheels?

 

[Spanky]

Could that be why it was built with wire front wheels?

Maybe but I doubt it. A lot of builders ignore ackerman, and I still see a lot of buckets with the tie rod in front. But I believe behind-the-axle is the preferred location, and it may not be too difficult to achieve on this one. New steering arms might be the only money you'd have to spend, and maybe not even that. I'd try swapping the steering arms around so they point toward the rear, and see if they interfere with anything. Maybe bending them slightly is all that's necessary. A new tie rod might be needed, but that's not much dinero.

 

[fletcherson]

View attachment 14586 View attachment 14586

Not sure about the deal your getting or the amount of work you are willing to do, or the desired finished product. With that said, I am only seeing a single view. Was it ever a running car? If so, what was in it? The chrome is basically trashed. You can media blast it and get etching primer to adhere and still use the parts, but no shiny. Once it pits like it appears to have done, there’s no rescuing it. Now you still have to decide if those parts, and that’s how you must look at it, are useful to complete the car in your head. If so, how many of them? I’m not trying to be critical, but I’ve seen many guys, me included, jump into deals that aren’t really suitable to accomplish the desired result. Maybe post some more overall pics and give us an idea of what you are thinking to help us see what you see. If the price is right and you can afford to discard and replace components, it’s a no brainer... look on speedway for a quick idea of what an entire front suspension kit will set you back, also rear setup.(for a worse case scenario) Ron or one of the others can also help you, but I think speedway has the easiest site to get a quick idea. You also need to measure and check to see if the frame, etc are strait, square, and so on. You don’t want to build on damaged parts. Will your desired power plant fit with the steering box and related? Look long and close before getting into something that will take the enjoyment out of the build. Just some thoughts...

 

[butch27]

You have some great info so far. Tie rod behind axle etc etc ..
go for it. You'll have fun

 

[Pushrod]

Thanks fletcherson, the body appears to be in great shape, I chose not to take the big block Ford it comes with, it comes with a stainless 20 gal gas tank, battery box, cross member mounts, calipers, a '96 Ranger rear end (3.73) with drum brakes, new radiator with shell and screen, Ford headers, leather top and interior, steering box, steering column, gauges and dashboard, master cylinder with brake lines, door with hinges, windshield and assorted other parts for $3,500. I have a 350 out of a '75 Vette, or a Ford 302 roller available cheap. I'm still debating if it's worth it, but planning the trip to bring it home next week. Thanks everyone for your input!

 

[HenrysT]

Does the owner have receipts for all this stuff?? I don't know if an itemized bill of sale will cut it at the DMV??

 

[fletcherson]

Does the owner have receipts for all this stuff?? I don't know if an itemized bill of sale will cut it at the DMV??

Good point. Better check the bmv. In Ohio, I recently had one inspected for a rebuilt title and the vin number and receipt was required for ALL used parts. I had reciepts from pick n pull for tail lights and that wasn’t good enough. (So I found a vin, lol) I don’t know how different it is on a car like this. Better to know the rules ahead of time.

 

[fletcherson]

Thanks fletcherson, the body appears to be in great shape, I chose not to take the big block Ford it comes with, it comes with a stainless 20 gal gas tank, battery box, cross member mounts, calipers, a '96 Ranger rear end (3.73) with drum brakes, new radiator with shell and screen, Ford headers, leather top and interior, steering box, steering column, gauges and dashboard, master cylinder with brake lines, door with hinges, windshield and assorted other parts for $3,500. I have a 350 out of a '75 Vette, or a Ford 302 roller available cheap. I'm still debating if it's worth it, but planning the trip to bring it home next week. Thanks everyone for your input!

Sounds like a good deal if the parts are in good shape and fit your vision. I’m a sucker for package deals, one of the reasons I have a barn full of good parts. When I die, it’s going to be one hell of a yard sale, lol!

 

[old round fart]

$3500 for what sounds like a real deal. A complete front end is $700 stainless tank $300?, leather top in good shape $400?, wire wheels $500, frame $500. I think if he’s asking $3500 you may get it for $2800. I would go for it I think.

 

[Pushrod]

I passed on that project, I ordered the '23 t bucket chassis kit today from Spirit. I'm back in the game, boys.