Hello, That is a good deal on the 462's. The valve train parts are worth more then 300.00. I have a set that are drilled for accessories as well and they are through the water jacket. I used thread seal and good rtv and they don't leak. You can have them welded shut or if you think you may use the holes in the future, you could plug them with epoxy or jb weld. There is only about 6-8 psi on the cooing system, not enough to blow it out. It just depends on what you are comfortable with.
Another thing you could do it put set screws in them. I would recomend stainless and good lock tight or the like.
Another thing you want to check on those heads will be the valve stem tips and guides. From the look of the rockers and girdles, there was likely a high lift cam installed and if it was ran long and or hard, those are typical areas that suffer the blunt of it. I presume your machinist will check all of that for you. Still a great deal from the looks of them just for the hardware!
I agree with Dave about the aluminum heads. It just depends on your goals and what the iron heads actually need. Still the rockers and girdles are well worth the price if you can use them and their condition. The studs and push rod guide plates are likely stock. Those old iron heads will produce plenty of power for a street thumper as long as you keep the compression to a reasonable ratio +-9.5:1 or less on pump gas, depending on cam and timing control. I personally like using period correct components on stuff from a nostalgic perspective, Old school. I wouldn't put a ton into them though.
Thanks for all the replies, it gave me some good ideas. The hardware came off a friend of mines mud truck, built just last year so they don't have many miles just some high RPM passes in a mud pit. The heads he bought for another project and never used. According to my research the 462 heads were factory 2.02 but did t have studs and guide plates. They have stainless valves but the stem height is way off from valve to valve. The machinist just called and said seats and guides are good but valves are trash. The rockers all look good so $120 for valve job and $160 for new stainless valves. Those rockera need .10 over stems anyway for clearance so I'll have $580 in the entire top end. I'm trying to keep it as retro as I can for a T with a sbc sticking out of the front so I really wanted to run the humps. I'm running the nastalgia 3030 solid cam from comp, so it will only be .488 lift. It's been modified with a little more modern profile. With flat tops it should be close to 10-1 if my math is good. Picked up a Holley street dominator intake at a car show today which is really a repro of the LT1 intake. (I had sworn to run a single 4 tunnel ram but decided on a better tuned street engine) Should make a good stout engine, maybe 375hp? Won't be hitting the dino but it will be plenty for my little T. I know a lot of folks don't like the solid cam but the new version isn't 3030 lash, it's 1212 so they don't tick THAT bad!
That's curious about the studs/plates. I have and have had several sets of camel hump heads and all of them have screw in studs and guide plates from the factory. Not sure if they were 461 or 462...maybe the production year dictated weather or not they came that way(?). I have some later 2.02/1.60 heads, 882's I think, that have pressed in studs, but they came with accessory holes cast in them. Sounds like you got off pretty cheap on a decent set of heads. I have a solid cam in my BBC and I wouldn't recommend it for a daily driver, but that isn't what it is...10:1 may give you some detonation with iron heads from my experience..I used a msd timing computer and sort of remedied it. I ended up switching to aluminum heads but for several reasons not just the knock. That was on my stroked sbc in my z28. Solid lift is ok as long as you adjust them regularly and be sure to use oil friction inhibiting additive with zinc and phosphorous to avoid shredding the lobes! As for the dino, My dino has always been the seat of my pants. lol That's plenty of hp for a 1800 pound bucket. Good luck with the build!Thanks for all the replies, it gave me some good ideas. The hardware came off a friend of mines mud truck, built just last year so they don't have many miles just some high RPM passes in a mud pit. The heads he bought for another project and never used. According to my research the 462 heads were factory 2.02 but did t have studs and guide plates. They have stainless valves but the stem height is way off from valve to valve. The machinist just called and said seats and guides are good but valves are trash. The rockers all look good so $120 for valve job and $160 for new stainless valves. Those rockera need .10 over stems anyway for clearance so I'll have $580 in the entire top end. I'm trying to keep it as retro as I can for a T with a sbc sticking out of the front so I really wanted to run the humps. I'm running the nastalgia 3030 solid cam from comp, so it will only be .488 lift. It's been modified with a little more modern profile. With flat tops it should be close to 10-1 if my math is good. Picked up a Holley street dominator intake at a car show today which is really a repro of the LT1 intake. (I had sworn to run a single 4 tunnel ram but decided on a better tuned street engine) Should make a good stout engine, maybe 375hp? Won't be hitting the dino but it will be plenty for my little T. I know a lot of folks don't like the solid cam but the new version isn't 3030 lash, it's 1212 so they don't tick THAT bad!
Shhhh, you're giving away one of the best-guarded secrets, used by many engine builders. Input a ridiculously low barometric pressure, hang the hat temp sensor down near the header collector, and be sure to only let the customer see the corrected numbers.
You'll get hero numbers, every time. We used to refer to that as Texas HP.
Hahaha....damn skippy there Mike....
Dale, how many inches is this motor? 375 HP is pretty optimistic.
Shhhh, you're giving away one of the best-guarded secrets, used by many engine builders. Input a ridiculously low barometric pressure, hang the hat temp sensor down near the header collector, and be sure to only let the customer see the corrected numbers.
We had a really close working relationship with a team that won an IHRA Pro Stock World Championship, a few years back. They raced several classes, on their way to the top of the heap, and dealt with several engine builders. The owner of the team, who shall remain nameless for obvious reasons, would quite regularly pick up motors from his engine builder of the day and bring it to us, to have us run it on the dyno. Some of the better-known shops always had very reputable dyno sheets, whereas some of the smaller guys were obviously using some questionable set-ups.
